F-350 DRW 3.55 or 4.10 Gears
#1
F-350 DRW 3.55 or 4.10 Gears
Hello Gang,
Long time reader, long time excursion owner. About to jump in the fifth wheel swimming pool. Going to add a truck to go with it. The 2017 F-350 DRW appears to come with 3.55 standard. Will that be enough for mountain driving with a 15k-18k fifth wheel or should I go with the 4.10? Also, often seen. it will be a near 50-50 split daily driver and towing machine. Thanks for the thoughts in advance. Yes, I have pondered a 450 also, but sounds like the 4.30 might be overkill but the wide track front end might be worth it?
Thanks.
Long time reader, long time excursion owner. About to jump in the fifth wheel swimming pool. Going to add a truck to go with it. The 2017 F-350 DRW appears to come with 3.55 standard. Will that be enough for mountain driving with a 15k-18k fifth wheel or should I go with the 4.10? Also, often seen. it will be a near 50-50 split daily driver and towing machine. Thanks for the thoughts in advance. Yes, I have pondered a 450 also, but sounds like the 4.30 might be overkill but the wide track front end might be worth it?
Thanks.
#3
The wide track would absolutely be worth it in my opinion. 4.30's aren't necessary for your listed potential 5ver weight or mine but they can't hurt. The 19.5 commercial truck tires will add stability while towing too but will be tough in the winter depending on where you live. If you do stay with a DRW 350, I would opt for the the 4.10 gearset. While my truck is two generations back for the 6.7, I can tell you that I do wish I had steeper gears for getting my RV moving. (I have 3.55's.) Once it's rolling on the highway, 3.55's are fine but in stop and go or starting out on a steep incline it's a slow start and the motor is really straining to get my 19k RV rolling...
#5
Very happy with my little SRW. Has towed 16-20k lbs for over 20k miles in all kinds of conditions without issue. The only place I feel it lacks is handling bad highways, expansion joints, etc. The big trailer can give you some good bouncing in those situations. The DRW will eliminate that. So, while I don't need one, I want one to make long trips more comfortable for the family and I....
#6
.....While my truck is two generations back for the 6.7, I can tell you that I do wish I had steeper gears for getting my RV moving. (I have 3.55's.) Once it's rolling on the highway, 3.55's are fine but in stop and go or starting out on a steep incline it's a slow start and the motor is really straining to get my 19k RV rolling...
#7
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#8
Im actually under all my weights except GCWR which in made up of fairy dust and unicorns.
And before you say it, my last RV was under on GCWR too and still bogged me down in the same situations...
Anyways, the new DRW has the option of 3.55's and it is indeed rated to tow 19k and that's what I was commenting on...
And before you say it, my last RV was under on GCWR too and still bogged me down in the same situations...
Anyways, the new DRW has the option of 3.55's and it is indeed rated to tow 19k and that's what I was commenting on...
#9
#10
Im actually under all my weights except GCWR which in made up of fairy dust and unicorns.
And before you say it, my last RV was under on GCWR too and still bogged me down in the same situations...
Anyways, the new DRW has the option of 3.55's and it is indeed rated to tow 19k and that's what I was commenting on...
And before you say it, my last RV was under on GCWR too and still bogged me down in the same situations...
Anyways, the new DRW has the option of 3.55's and it is indeed rated to tow 19k and that's what I was commenting on...
Do you have a copy of a weigh ticket you can post? I'm in the very situation where sometimes I'm over all my payload and towing capacities by the book but under my axle limits per the door jamb. On my 2006 f250 I have a Gross of 10,000 and FAWR 5600 RAWR 6100
with Unloaded trailer I weighed out 4900 front and 5420 Rear, under my axle limits but over gross by 320# with a trailer axle of 6140 for a GCWR of 16460.
I've been against a new SRW because I want a bigger toy hauler but numbers don't add up by the book unless I step up to DRW.
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to the OP if you plan on having a 50/50 split I'd opt for the 4.10s. Granted I have a 6.0 which is about 25horse and 150lb/ft on a 2016. But with my 5spd and 3.73 gears I'd much rather have the 4.10s when I tow the longer hills. Same with all the 6.7s I've driven, they pull much better but for some of the longer hills I'd still rather the company had gone with 4.10s
Looking at the transmission specs for the 6R140 with 4.10s and the extra power you should be able to hold 5th gear on most pulls. MPG should be better around town but a little less on level highway and a wash when pulling hills.
Looking at the transmission specs for the 6R140 with 4.10s and the extra power you should be able to hold 5th gear on most pulls. MPG should be better around town but a little less on level highway and a wash when pulling hills.
#15
One thing to consider is this. I specifically started shopping my brand of hauler because of their lighter pin weights as I was not ready to upgrade to a DRW yet. Many brands with the same floor plan as mine will have 1k+ more pin weight. XLR has the lightest pin weights in the industry due to axle placement. Some will argue that it's not enough weight and that sway will incur. But, after towing mine over 10k miles last season in all kinds of wind, hills, heavy traffic, etc., I can tell you that even with my low pin weight (2600# with the garage full, 2850# with it empty) that mine tows like an arrow back there.