Brake self adjuster question
#1
Brake self adjuster question
I have a 92 F350 and I am replacing the rear brakes and have a question.
My self adjusters are not working properly when I re-installed them. The adjuster itself moves easily, but the little metal pieces that keep them from rotating back are not making good contact. One side works a little bit, but the other side has no contact with the clip that stops the mechanism from rotating backward. I suspect it is a problem with the guides that hold the cables. The new brake pads did not come with those little metal clips, so I had to reuse the ones I have. I was not able to get them in there very snug so the cable is a little loose, any suggestions on how to get the metal brackets in there tight? Is there any way to tighten the cable?
Any help is appreciated!
My self adjusters are not working properly when I re-installed them. The adjuster itself moves easily, but the little metal pieces that keep them from rotating back are not making good contact. One side works a little bit, but the other side has no contact with the clip that stops the mechanism from rotating backward. I suspect it is a problem with the guides that hold the cables. The new brake pads did not come with those little metal clips, so I had to reuse the ones I have. I was not able to get them in there very snug so the cable is a little loose, any suggestions on how to get the metal brackets in there tight? Is there any way to tighten the cable?
Any help is appreciated!
#2
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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When you say clips are you talking about the half moon guides for the adjuster cable? I have insralled those loosely and never had a problem. I guess it could change he angle of the adjuster level some. Did you adjust the shoes out manually? If the adjuster is all the way in your lever wont contact the adjuster wheel.
These self adjusters dont really work so well when at their best... dont expect too much.
These self adjusters dont really work so well when at their best... dont expect too much.
#4
Your front and your rear brakes are on two different parts of the master cylinder. One can fail and the other will still work.
If the rears are adjusted too loose then you won't get much assist from them until you really step hard on the brake pedal.
If the rears are adjusted really tight then they are dragging all of the time, making the hubs hot and reducing your MPG.
In my experience, as most of my rear brake shoes have been noisy, is if I hear them just starting to squeal during normal parking lot maneuvers (with the windows rolled down) then they are about perfect.
If they are constantly squeaking in the parking lot the are too tight.
If you never hear them in the parking lot then either your windows or your radio volume are up, or your rear brake preload is too low.
I do not know of a rear brake shoe for the OBS F2/350 that are quiet. And for the above diagnostic reasons, I don't care.
If the rears are adjusted too loose then you won't get much assist from them until you really step hard on the brake pedal.
If the rears are adjusted really tight then they are dragging all of the time, making the hubs hot and reducing your MPG.
In my experience, as most of my rear brake shoes have been noisy, is if I hear them just starting to squeal during normal parking lot maneuvers (with the windows rolled down) then they are about perfect.
If they are constantly squeaking in the parking lot the are too tight.
If you never hear them in the parking lot then either your windows or your radio volume are up, or your rear brake preload is too low.
I do not know of a rear brake shoe for the OBS F2/350 that are quiet. And for the above diagnostic reasons, I don't care.
#5
Welcome to FTE
Can you post a pic? Thousand words and all. The 350 series may be a lot different than regular passenger trucks. Couple questions though - did you happen do both sides of the axle at the same time, or one at a time? Are you using a manual for instruction? You realize there are R and L side adjusters, and adjuster levers but is possible to mix them up?
Generally, drum brake hardware, springs and cables, etc. is going to be tight and fit perfectly. If something doesn't look right or is loose it isn't right. How did you reinstall all the springs? The halfmoon cable guides sometimes don't want to snap in flush, inspect carefully. Sometimes they can be persuaded back in place with an ice pick without having to remove and re-install everything.
When everything is adjusted and lubed properly, the self-adjusters work "OK". At least for a while.
Can you post a pic? Thousand words and all. The 350 series may be a lot different than regular passenger trucks. Couple questions though - did you happen do both sides of the axle at the same time, or one at a time? Are you using a manual for instruction? You realize there are R and L side adjusters, and adjuster levers but is possible to mix them up?
Generally, drum brake hardware, springs and cables, etc. is going to be tight and fit perfectly. If something doesn't look right or is loose it isn't right. How did you reinstall all the springs? The halfmoon cable guides sometimes don't want to snap in flush, inspect carefully. Sometimes they can be persuaded back in place with an ice pick without having to remove and re-install everything.
When everything is adjusted and lubed properly, the self-adjusters work "OK". At least for a while.
#6
OP, brake shoes (pads are for disc brakes) generally don't come with any hardware but you can get a "spring and hardware" kit from just about any parts store and that will have all the springs and MOST of the clips, retainers, levers, etc that you need including new half moon clips.
#7
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