Rear Brake Help!
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 350
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg, SC
Rear Brake Help!
I'm at the end of my rope with this one so I could really use some advise. The right rear drum is getting hot after 10 or 15 minutes of driving. I noticed one day when I was pulling something out of the bed on the passenger side and felt the heat coming off the wheel. So knowing the brakes were going to have to be redone anyway, I pulled the drums and replaced all of the hardware and brake shoes on both sides. I even replaced the wheel cylinders, the lines going back to the distribution block located on the rear axle (3/16 inch lines), and the parking brake cables on both sides. I bled them out starting with the right wheel first and everything seemed fine so I drove it to work this morning for the 8 mile commute and the right is still heating up. It even pulls a little to the right when you brake hard.
I know there is a single line coming from the master cylinder so I dont think that would cause the issue. Could it be the distribution block?
I know there is a single line coming from the master cylinder so I dont think that would cause the issue. Could it be the distribution block?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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Maybe you have a bad drum over there. Might also try adjusting the shoes way out, and do some test driving in an empty parking lot until they adjust back down. Are you sure you have the springs in the correct position and order?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Some people have trouble with this, apparently some don't, but I had to take the auto-adjusters off my 1980 for the same problem. I noticed when doing a brake job on my 89, that someone had already taken them off. It just seems some of them adjust the brakes too tight.
All you have to do is take the little cable off. Adjust the brakes manually, and then depending on how you use the truck, you have to manually adjust the brakes about once a year. You can tell when you need to adjust them, the brake pedal gets lower.
I am not sure this is your problem, but it's something to try. Seems like you have tried everything else.
All you have to do is take the little cable off. Adjust the brakes manually, and then depending on how you use the truck, you have to manually adjust the brakes about once a year. You can tell when you need to adjust them, the brake pedal gets lower.
I am not sure this is your problem, but it's something to try. Seems like you have tried everything else.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
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From: Abingdon, Va
This happened on my old 85 before I rolled it. It was the auto adjusters, the latch on them that kept them from tightening rusted off so once I replaced them it was fine. And it also happened on my current 87, replaced them and I haven't had any other brake issues in the back.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 350
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From: Spartanburg, SC
Masseysbronco, I do think I have everything correct. I followed my Chilton Manual when rebuilding them to the letter.
Smashclash, I have installed two new parking brake cables and all of the hardware underneath the cab, but have disconnected both to test for this problem.
Franklin2, I may try that. The cable is connected to a bracket and the bracket is connected the bottom spring and moves the adjuster. If I remove the cable, does that prevent the auto adjust from happening?
Kennethrasnake, all of the hardware is new including the latch.
Someone suggested it may be the wheel bearing. I would think I would hear that though if it were going bad.
Smashclash, I have installed two new parking brake cables and all of the hardware underneath the cab, but have disconnected both to test for this problem.
Franklin2, I may try that. The cable is connected to a bracket and the bracket is connected the bottom spring and moves the adjuster. If I remove the cable, does that prevent the auto adjust from happening?
Kennethrasnake, all of the hardware is new including the latch.
Someone suggested it may be the wheel bearing. I would think I would hear that though if it were going bad.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Yes, the little short cable pulls the little "finger" thing up and down when you apply the brakes in reverse. If you take the cable off, everything can stay in place, and the the finger adjuster will not move up and down and adjust the star wheel in the adjuster.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Spartanburg, SC
I know the cable helps apply more tension to the lower spring when it is attached. Will there be any issues with it detached and will the adjuster finger be inline with the adjuster if the cable is off?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Acworth, GA
They are different sizes, and they are hooked up on opposite sides on either side of the truck (like a mirror). In other words, everything that is hooked up toward the front on one side is hooked up towards the front on the other side. If you go to a better auto parts store, you can get a brake hardware kit that should have everything you need to change the springs and all the small parts. Sometimes they can even print you a picture of how everything hooks up.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Spartanburg, SC
Thanks Grubbworm. I purchased the kits from OReilly's and they came with everything I needed to replace every part inside the drum. I have noticed that different manuals show different spring configurations just like the photo above so thats why I was asking. I would love to see a picture out of the shop manuals for it so I could see how Ford had it configured originally.