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Ok so I did what u said disconnected wire and ran a single negative jumper to small post and quickly tested larger pole and got power to glow plugs, truck started right up. Now we know problem is pcm or wire from pcm to gpr.
What next? or can it possibly be the eot sensor? if so where is it located
thank you
You can check the function of the EOT with a scan tool like TorquePro or FORScan. I recommend FORScan or FORScan Lite over TorquePro, every moment of every day. TP is pretty to look at, but it can be unreliable and a pain in the *** to use.
If you have a multimeter, you can check the sensor itself by following the instructions below.
If the EOT sensor checks out, you can send your PCM off to Jonathan at Diesel Tech Chattanooga (https://www.dieseltechchatt.com/) or you can just use the switch you installed from here on out. If you plan to use the switch, might I suggest using a spring loaded momentary switch so that human error of leaving the switch on/active is removed from the equation.
You can check the function of the EOT with a scan tool like TorquePro or FORScan. I recommend FORScan or FORScan Lite over TorquePro, every moment of every day. TP is pretty to look at, but it can be unreliable and a pain in the *** to use.
If you have a multimeter, you can check the sensor itself by following the instructions below.
If the EOT sensor checks out, you can send your PCM off to Jonathan at Diesel Tech Chattanooga (https://www.dieseltechchatt.com/) or you can just use the switch you installed from here on out. If you plan to use the switch, might I suggest using a spring loaded momentary switch so that human error of leaving the switch on/active is removed from the equation.
Happy new year!
eot checks out. I unplugged it which should send pcm into a default reading of -22c from what ive read ( not sure that's correct, plus I think I would have check lights and such if it didnt work) but didnt change anything on the smaller post wire.
ill run a ground with a switch in the cab for now and get the pcm looked at.
A Carling style momentary switch would be ideal. You could have a custom face/print made for it or choose from the many they have to choose from. The switch is large for people with large hands and easy to use during cold and cumbersome weather situations. The momentary feature allows for you to use the switch for as long or as short a period as you see fit, then removes the human error element in which a scenario of leaving the GP's on could cause damage.
Just some things to think about as you move forward with the switch idea. Many have done this mod, but it is not really that common either.
I bought a custom switch from them a few years ago when I made a 2WD Low in reverse circuit for my ZF6 transmission. Switch looks and works great. Positive feedback in either position.
A Carling style momentary switch would be ideal. You could have a custom face/print made for it or choose from the many they have to choose from. The switch is large for people with large hands and easy to use during cold and cumbersome weather situations. The momentary feature allows for you to use the switch for as long or as short a period as you see fit, then removes the human error element in which a scenario of leaving the GP's on could cause damage.
Just some things to think about as you move forward with the switch idea. Many have done this mod, but it is not really that common either.
I bought a custom switch from them a few years ago when I made a 2WD Low in reverse circuit for my ZF6 transmission. Switch looks and works great. Positive feedback in either position.
Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
Dang I like your manual switch for GPs idea. No more hassle than a throttle choke.
Originally Posted by FinnishStroker
I wired manual switch for GPs,becouse PCM stopped grounding it..Everything else is working OK in PCM.
Seems to happen once in a while..
Worked like a charm. Momentary is a great idea. Hold it on for 30 secs and starts right up. Thanks everyone
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