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orange wire which should be the rear small wire, should be a ground from pcm when key is on, need pcm ground to operate relay, hope this helps
Take rear small wire off of relay and supply a ground to relay you will hear relay click and relay will send power to larger wire. If this works then either yor wire from pcm is open or the driver in pcm burnt. Hope this helps you.
Take rear small wire off of relay and supply a ground to relay you will hear relay click and relay will send power to larger wire. If this works then either yor wire from pcm is open or the driver in pcm burnt. Hope this helps you.
Look for a chaffed wire on the driver side valve cover the little square box with all the wires. I dont know if the pcm wire runs through there but thise wires have been knows to run and shirt eachother out. Just a possibility
so I have a 2001 Ford F-350 super duty 7.3 diesal and I believe I have a problem with my glow plug relay cause when I replaced it after I did I turned on the key and notice there was not a WTS light on like there always has been. But today Before I replace the glow plug the truck had a hard time starting so I had to use either to get it started so thought it was the glow plug relay so I replace that then try to start there is no WTS light on and it will crank but no start even if I use either. So I take a test light and test it arch the relay the WTS light comes on and still have to use either to start it and the truck starts with only the relay arch the whole time. Then when we remove the arch the whole truck shuts off what is going on with my truck
so I have a 2001 Ford F-350 super duty 7.3 diesal and I believe I have a problem with my glow plug relay cause when I replaced it after I did I turned on the key and notice there was not a WTS light on like there always has been. But today Before I replace the glow plug the truck had a hard time starting so I had to use either to get it started so thought it was the glow plug relay so I replace that then try to start there is no WTS light on and it will crank but no start even if I use either. So I take a test light and test it arch the relay the WTS light comes on and still have to use either to start it and the truck starts with only the relay arch the whole time. Then when we remove the arch the whole truck shuts off what is going on with my truck
Very confusing the way this is written. QUIT using ether! No WTS light is typically a blown fuse #30 under dash. Do you still have fuel bowl heater plugged in? That's typically what blow the fuse. What relay are you referring to, GPR? Below is a video to show you the proper way to test the GPR. If GPR is bad, then plug it in until you can get it replaced. I personally use the Stancor relay and it works incredibly well.
First step would be to start a new thread, second would be to research how to install a GPR, 3rd step is to replace the pistons with holes in them from the ether
My new Alliant GPR was buzzing after a month of minimal use. I switched to the bigger Stancor model. Good reviews on that and the install was pretty simple.
that is the big wire that comes off the the left side it you are looking at it from the front???
Yes that ALWAYS has 12.2V and when key is on it has 12.2V and the 2 smaller posts have 12.2V as well
The other larger post to the right has nothing EVER, even with a new GPR
Hi Meg. i know its been 5 years since u had this problem but I have it now with same year and model truck. All 3 poles giving me 12volts except the larger pole to the right feeding the power to the glow plugs. Do you recall how u fixed it?
Joe,
Are you checking it with key on or key off? Engine warm or cold?
engine cold
key off only the 12v from battery lights up with test light.
key on 12v from battery and both smaller poles light up and the larger pole going to glow plugs does nothing.
Ok so far every thing is working as it should except the ground leg or the relay. Next take the small wire off the relay that goes to the PCM and use a jumper wire to apply a ground to that small post on the relay. See if the relay pulls in and what the voltage is on the glow plug wire.
If it woks then the problem is with the PCM or the wire to it. If the wire is good then it is the PCM. This has happened quite a few times before and the guys who have had it happen usually just bypass the PCM with a switch in the cab to activate the glow plugs manually.
Edit: Just to be sure the truck is outside and cold, not in a heated garage? The PCM only activates the glow plugs below a certain temp. Can't remember what that is
Glow plug cycle and time is determined by the EOT. I can retrieve more details from the Ford Service Manual if they are required, but I believe the image below indicates a good amount of information related to the operation of the GP's. Now, to figure out if the GPR is functioning properly or if there is a fault in the ground circuit.
Ok so far every thing is working as it should except the ground leg or the relay. Next take the small wire off the relay that goes to the PCM and use a jumper wire to apply a ground to that small post on the relay. See if the relay pulls in and what the voltage is on the glow plug wire.
If it woks then the problem is with the PCM or the wire to it. If the wire is good then it is the PCM. This has happened quite a few times before and the guys who have had it happen usually just bypass the PCM with a switch in the cab to activate the glow plugs manually.
Edit: Just to be sure the truck is outside and cold, not in a heated garage? The PCM only activates the glow plugs below a certain temp. Can't remember what that is
Ok so I did what u said disconnected wire and ran a single negative jumper to small post and quickly tested larger pole and got power to glow plugs, truck started right up. Now we know problem is pcm or wire from pcm to gpr.
What next? or can it possibly be the eot sensor? if so where is it located
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