When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, I have been haveing a hard time starting when the temp is 30* or below, I have to turn the key on and off at least 3 times before it starts...Puff of white smoke and it runs like a raped ape for the rest of the day...
The guy I bought the truck from said that he plugged it in during the winter due to it starting hard...I believe it has the stock/original GPR installed...
I just went to NAPA and purchased the GPR-109 however the terminals are 90* out from the stock...
There are no markings on the realy as to where the wires go to which terminals..
Please help me to figure out where the wires go...Does it matter???
I know I could also have numerous other problems like Glow Plugs, harness etc...But Im going with the easiest , cheapest first
Thanks
Tom
Last edited by ex-wolverine; Oct 22, 2006 at 07:26 PM.
I think the gp110 is a direct replacement, maybe some other # but I just got one from NAPA and it was an exact replacement for what came out of my truck, maybe it'd been changed before though. I was also told the the international dealer has them cheaper than napa, fwiw.
OK, wiring the gpr... as long as it's still a 4 terminal relay, it doesent really matter. One small wire on each small terminal and one big wire on each large terminal. It will engage and work exactly the same regardless.
FYI, one big wire should be 12v all the time. One small wire should be 12v w/ ignition on. Other small wire should be ground for about the first 1-2 minutes of key on when the truck is cold (that one got me). The other large wire is the lead to the glow plugs, should have resistance to ground.
EDIT: Oh yeah, before changing it just put a test light on the big terminals of your GPR when the truck is cold and key is on (within the first minute of turning on the key. If both terminals are hot (+12v) then your GPR is fine, look elsewhere.
I just replaced my original GPR with Nappa GPR 109. Same deal found because fastening holes are different. GPR 109 is rotated 90* to the left so I followed this by moving each wire over to the right and it works fine.
I did note when I finally saw my original GPR that it was fried! Large hot terminal was cooking and overheated the rubber cover. When I tried to remove the nut the entire post broke right off the GPR.
Thanks to members here who pointed me toward the GPR as the source of my hard cold starts, my 7.3 is now fireing on the very first try when cold.
Maybee a dumber question is why does GPR 109 cost $25 while Nappa wanted to sell me the original replacment for $200??
For a savings of $175 I can move some wires over one knotch!
mine was the same way, cooked the hot side right out of the relay. Wish I knew about the gpr109, but they sold me the gpr110 for $65... at least it wasn't $200.
Yeah, that sucks. Even cheaper than the 109 is eliminating the air intake heater and using that relay. Or, keep in mind, it makes a good spare in a pinch.
Don't have a clue what the one from FOMOCO might cost but from the looks of my original I would not get another of them.
Have to wonder just what the real difference is in all of these. Must be the 109 has a little less Pixy Dust in it!
I did have to take my old one appart to see how it ticks. Has a simple coil with rod that pushes up to make a connection when energized. Shurely not rocket science here. For what is inside of it even $25 is outrageous!
If your in a pinch,just use a screw driver across the 2 big terminals,for about 1 minute.Just make sure the screw driver has a handle,as the metal of the screw driver will get really hot.
That is a better pinch option, but I was referring to being out somewhere away from stores, camping what not, and not wanting to jump it every time. That is definately the way to diagnose a dead GPR though.
Hello, so I was just at Nappa. According to them the difference between theGPR relay #109 and rh #110 is that the #110 has a diode in it for feed back to the PCM. They tell me I should use a #110 in my truck 2001, and not the #109. The #109 is for the earlier models. Thats what they say.
I personally don't have any idea if it's true or not.
i had the 109. and then the 110.. Either one will work.. Both were junk in my opinion. Failed in less than a year. Junp it with a screwdriver across the big terminals for a full minute. Or use the AIH relay in its place. Or get the big stancor and forget it.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.