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My truck is burning oil but not much. My dad says the seals on the valves are bad for being a 22 year old truck. Want to know can i just use a valve spring compression tool to help or can i pull the injector hook up a fitting for the hole and blow air to raise the valves out of the cylinder? Ive done it on a tractor like that. I wanna get this done before i decide to drop my turbo on it.
At what rate is it burning oil? It's not unusual for these trucks to burn a quart, sometimes 2, between oil changes (international designed the rings to let oil pass for better lubrication if memory serves me). Another thing to check would be the cdr valve (similar to pcv on gas).
I wouldn't think the valve seals would fail unless the truck sat for some time. There are some pretty high mileage idi's that don't burn too much oil. If you do find they need replacing, the compressed air trick should work, but I would think it would be easier to find a fitting for the glow plug threads.
Yeah it doesnt use much oil the about a quart between changes. I know the only time it sat was when the lady i bought it from didnt use (which was often only about once a week for a ride) and it had 110k on it when i got ut now iam at 118k. The CDR is a quick try anyways since i have a new one to put on with my turbo
I have an 86 6.9 and I am thinking of looking at my rocker arms, keepers and replacing the valve seals. The parts house had two types, tall and short, but neither in stock. What type of valve seal design should I have on hand in order to replace the seals while I am there?
I would say the tall ones. To get a better seal. Does your truck burn a lot of oil?
I think so. So much it is like a fresh oil change, before it is due. Trouble is, I really do not see any smoke. I see some in the cold mornings. I did service my CDR but I think I will revisit this again.
I replaced my valve cover gaskets about five +? years ago and checked spring/stem heights, but now my valve cover gaskets are seeping again so I want to change them. While I am there I want to inspect the valve retainers and keepers more thoroughly, to assess their conditions, and preventing a dreaded failure. Also, while I am there, I can remove the valve seals and measure the stem/guide wear, if any. Very generally, it's like performing a checkup on your brake pads. If the stems/guides, keepers/retainers are alright, button it up and let her roll.
These photos are taken from the Commodore Owners Club, Australia. Very few of the damaged keepers/retainers, I have seen, made valve noise. This guy was lucky! Good bye engine if you suck down a valve.
Damaged valve spring retainer. I have seen them failed (split on both sides) and ready to drop the valve. Very rarely was there any valve/rocker arm noise to indicate a problem. <br/>Photo taken from/property of the Commodore Owners Club website, Australia, under fair use laws permitted for instruction, comment, criticism, etc.
The far valve spring retainer has failed, no noticeable noise, and this owner luckily avoided engine disaster when performing other work.<br/>Photo taken from/property of the Commodore Owners Club website, Australia, under fair use laws permitted for instruction, comment, criticism, etc.
Last edited by Dieselamour; Jul 20, 2015 at 06:09 AM.
Reason: added link, photo, and credit.
You wont see smoke from the truck. Is will burn it when its on a long run and warms up. You will only smoke at a start or at a stop my truck always throws a little bit of coal at a stop to take off again but its normal
This is the view of my CDR valve from the air cleaner side. I would think the area would be very dark, with oil, if the CDR is not functioning properly. I am not a diesel pro, but this is one of the cleanest intakes I have seen. Usually, the intakes were all gummed up with blackened shmootz or thickened residue. I still have the soup bowl. I included a photo of the oil for a comparison.
Should the intake be completely dry?
This is a photo of my intake. Is the interior too damp?
This is the inside view of my CDR valve. It is wet but not with the darkened engine oil.
Photo is for comparison of crankcase oil color and condition.
These engines have a .030 ring gap. They make /tons/ of blow-by, which gets mixed with oil droplets that are getting sprayed on the underside of the pistons. This mist/smoke then gets sucked into the intake through the CDR.
If you had a /clean/ intake, I'd be questioning why. If you block the CDR and open the oil cover, you'll see a steady stream of smoke/oil vapor coming up. It's just a quirk of these engines.
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