Valve Seals
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Valve Seals
I suspect my valve seals being bad, because of the oil it burns. Hopefully its them and not the rings. When I look for the seals they have two different types. one set says low oil shield and the other is high oil shield. What set do I need?
Also this can be done with the heads on correct? but how do you keep the valves from dropping in the engine? Ive heard about it being able to be done without pulling them but don't know the concept in which it can be done.
Thanks
Also this can be done with the heads on correct? but how do you keep the valves from dropping in the engine? Ive heard about it being able to be done without pulling them but don't know the concept in which it can be done.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Some members use compressed air in the GP hole to keep the valves shut........
I personally would bring the piston to TDC on the valves I was working on.......
There is a valve seal for the intake and an oil shield on the exhaust........ I use Felpro parts........since they came in the head gasket kit I got.
I would also suggest getting new valve spring keepers......
I personally would bring the piston to TDC on the valves I was working on.......
There is a valve seal for the intake and an oil shield on the exhaust........ I use Felpro parts........since they came in the head gasket kit I got.
I would also suggest getting new valve spring keepers......
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Thanks PLC. When I look online at partsamerica.com they show a set that says long oil shield then the other says short. Here is a description from the site of both.
Location Int. & Exh.; w/Short oil shield; Premium valve stem seals incl.
Location Int. & Exh.; w/Long oil shield; Premium valve stem seals incl.
When you say keepers you mean what holds the springs in place right? On there site they call them Locks. Same thing right?
Location Int. & Exh.; w/Short oil shield; Premium valve stem seals incl.
Location Int. & Exh.; w/Long oil shield; Premium valve stem seals incl.
When you say keepers you mean what holds the springs in place right? On there site they call them Locks. Same thing right?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 108
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
If the truck is running, you can test for blow-by of the rings by taking the oil-filler cap off and feeling if any air comes out. no air = good rings, blowing oil and air = bad rings or other such problems. Someone on the forum recommended Auto-RX (sold directly from the company) to slowly break loose sludge/soot and free stuck parts. I think it he said auto-rx. just a thought.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
I searched NAPA also they have 2 types of seals long and short........ both fits the engine you have. Has me baffled too........
Note ...unless your prepared to get a manometer and test the engine blowby at 3000 rpm+ don't even worry about it. The CDR valve takes care of blowby.... as long as the CDR is working things are fine in my opinion.
Note ...unless your prepared to get a manometer and test the engine blowby at 3000 rpm+ don't even worry about it. The CDR valve takes care of blowby.... as long as the CDR is working things are fine in my opinion.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Mine always had blowby comming out the filler cap, Its a little less now that there are a few miles on the fresh rebuild but not my much. The chevy 6.5s seem to have a more powerful vacuum on the intake (possibly via intake restriction) to pull the gasses in further, but unless you feel real pressure under your hand, its normal so don't worry about that. After 1000 RPM, it gets pulled back in.
There are two versions of oil seal, the earlier one was made to allow a small amount of oil to leak past the seals to lube the guides. This means that a healthy 6.9 can always use a SMALL amount of oil. The later 7.3 engine had different seals that were intended to eliminate the oil consumption. Great idea, right? well the result was increaced valve guide wear, and often premature failure.
I say go for the one that allows slight oil consumption. My guess is that "high oil shield" is the one that seals perfectly, and "low oil shield" is the one that offers better lube for the guides. Better check to make sure though.
There are two versions of oil seal, the earlier one was made to allow a small amount of oil to leak past the seals to lube the guides. This means that a healthy 6.9 can always use a SMALL amount of oil. The later 7.3 engine had different seals that were intended to eliminate the oil consumption. Great idea, right? well the result was increaced valve guide wear, and often premature failure.
I say go for the one that allows slight oil consumption. My guess is that "high oil shield" is the one that seals perfectly, and "low oil shield" is the one that offers better lube for the guides. Better check to make sure though.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
David85: "Mine always had blowby comming out the filler cap, Its a little less now that there are a few miles on the fresh rebuild but not my much. The chevy 6.5s seem to have a more powerful vacuum on the intake (possibly via intake restriction) to pull the gasses in further, but unless you feel real pressure under your hand, its normal so don't worry about that. After 1000 RPM, it gets pulled back in."
Great, now I'm worried about my truck because it has NO blowby at any speed, idle or above.
CRAP-the more I read the less I know!
Just trying to help eliminate possible places of oil consumption. I would assume rings would be a prime place to look also. I guess a leakdown test with a compression gauge is the only way to test them if the blowby method is bunk.
Great, now I'm worried about my truck because it has NO blowby at any speed, idle or above.
CRAP-the more I read the less I know!Just trying to help eliminate possible places of oil consumption. I would assume rings would be a prime place to look also. I guess a leakdown test with a compression gauge is the only way to test them if the blowby method is bunk.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
David85: "Mine always had blowby comming out the filler cap, Its a little less now that there are a few miles on the fresh rebuild but not my much. The chevy 6.5s seem to have a more powerful vacuum on the intake (possibly via intake restriction) to pull the gasses in further, but unless you feel real pressure under your hand, its normal so don't worry about that. After 1000 RPM, it gets pulled back in."
Great, now I'm worried about my truck because it has NO blowby at any speed, idle or above. CRAP-the more I read the less I know!
Just trying to help eliminate possible places of oil consumption. I would assume rings would be a prime place to look also. I guess a leakdown test with a compression gauge is the only way to test them if the blowby method is bunk.
Great, now I'm worried about my truck because it has NO blowby at any speed, idle or above.
CRAP-the more I read the less I know!Just trying to help eliminate possible places of oil consumption. I would assume rings would be a prime place to look also. I guess a leakdown test with a compression gauge is the only way to test them if the blowby method is bunk.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
At over 20 to 1 compression ratio, you will have a bit of blow by even with new rings.
A small amount of blow by will be sucked in by the CDR, so at idle you may not see any at all.
That last statement is more true if the air filter has much restriction or is dirty.
A small amount of blow by will be sucked in by the CDR, so at idle you may not see any at all.
That last statement is more true if the air filter has much restriction or is dirty.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 326
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From: eaton ohio
i was going to check my cdr valve today,but the rubber bushing it goes into seemed pretty stiff so i left it alone till i can get another one.speaking of,where can i get a spare rubber bushing?
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Posting Guru
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
I bought one from Green Sales company for $15.00, they can also ship it if you want. Highly recommend the company. I'm sure you could also get it from IH or the Ford Dealer.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
CDR valve parts
Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A
IH part #1805319C1
Crankcase Depression Regulator ... The seal does not come with the CDR. The ford Part Number for the CDR Seal is E3TZ-6A892-A. ...
The part # for the rubber tube on the CDR... Retainer # E8TZ 6A892A ...... I believe they upgraded to a single part now hose and VP sealing end all in one.....
Check out Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A
IH part #1805319C1
Crankcase Depression Regulator ... The seal does not come with the CDR. The ford Part Number for the CDR Seal is E3TZ-6A892-A. ...
The part # for the rubber tube on the CDR... Retainer # E8TZ 6A892A ...... I believe they upgraded to a single part now hose and VP sealing end all in one.....
Check out Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
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