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I have mine set to High Brake Effort, and 6 for gain and my trailer will stop my truck when using the slider, and thats doing something because my truck weighs more than the trailer! For reference, with the Brake Effort set to Medium, and the Gain set to 9, I was barely getting any braking.
If your TBC will lock up your dump trailer and not your 5er I'd be looking at the adj. of your trailer brakes also. When were the brakes and mags last physically inspected?
Be careful if comparing braking effect between a light weight uploaded trailer and a much heavier trailer.
If you want to know what the brakes are can do under full power. Provided you have a charged battery on board, hitch up and with your seven pin unplugged pull your break-away and try to pull your trailer. The wheels should be locked up. That is a quick way to give you an idea if the trailer brakes are at fault.
Be sure to put the pin back in the break-away when you are done or the wires will melt!
If your brakes are not auto-adjusting, you may need to adjust some as the brakes wear. I have a 2011 and the TBC is in .5 increments 1-10. But I still must get under the 5th wheel every year or so and adjust the brakes a bit, give it a few ticks to tighten up the clearance on the shoes. I have had to do this with older 5ers and I just did a small adjustment on my new one. It does not take much.
Thats an IMO on this.
I disagee with this approach. The individual brakes may be wearing a little differently. In order to have each brake set nearly equal as compared to the others jack up the wheel to clear the ground so that you can spin it by hand. Then adjust the brake to the point where you can not spin it by hand. Then back off the adjustment about 5 clicks. Proceed to the next wheel.
There is often a good deal of discussion about maintain brakes exactly evenly, but you will often find some variations in power from an electrical standpoint so minor differences are somewhat the norm, even if the shoes are adjusted properly. Unless the difference is extreme, I doubt you would be able to notice it.
I had a 2004 6.0 with an aftermarket controller. Locked up my trailer brakes every time when set to 3/4 max output. Bought a 2011 6.7 and the brakes would no longer lock even with controller on 10. Was told others saw the same problem. Just bought a 2015 6.7 and set the TBC to high range and output to 6. Trailer brakes lock up again like they did 10 years ago. Just sayin.
Be careful if comparing braking effect between a light weight uploaded trailer and a much heavier trailer.
If you want to know what the brakes are can do under full power. Provided you have a charged battery on board, hitch up and with your seven pin unplugged pull your break-away and try to pull your trailer. The wheels should be locked up. That is a quick way to give you an idea if the trailer brakes are at fault.
Be sure to put the pin back in the break-away when you are done or the wires will melt!
Steve
Ive done the pulling of the breakaway and have confirmed wheel lock.
I used to have a 02 f350 that had a separate brake controller and would be able to lock brakes etc by squeezing brake controller when changing the setting.This is with a 14k fiver in tow.Fast firward to my 2011 integrated controller with same fiver and I can not lock brakes set on 10.Not even close.Having said that I do not feel unsafe what so ever.I never feel the need for more braking when towing and have never had the trailer push me when braking.Maybe its just something in my head that makes me think I need to be able to lock the trailer brakes.I know when setting the controller you are supposed to set it just prior to lock up so the whole locking thing really shouldnt happen anyways when set correctly.Locking brakes makes for a longer stopping distance anyways.
The only real way to compare would be to take a professional tester that has the 20-foot cord, plug it into your seven pin and take it for a ride while activating the TBC and seeing how many amps it actually puts out.
I have both a TBC in one of my trucks and a P3 aftermarket in the other and I have always been of the opinion the aftermarket controllers are easier to understand than the TBC. That is not a knock on the TBC, it just seems to be the case the TBC draws many more comments having to do with its action and whether or not it is working.
Maybe I missed it, but did anyone mention that you have to be going more than 10 MPH for the IBC to have full effect?
Lynn brings up a good point.
The system reduces braking trailer gain approximately 20% (IIRC) below 11 mph, but ONLY while applying the trailer brakes using the foot brake.
Locking brakes makes for a longer stopping distance anyways.
Threshold braking, the moment before wheel lock up occurs gives maximum braking.
I can't lockup the wheels on my trailer.
Can't do it with the Ford and it's best in class integrated TBC or when I had my GMC and a best in class Prodigy TBC.
The trailer is heavy, 17-19K and has hydraulic disk brakes.
But, even though they will not lock up, I can bring the truck and trailer to a reasonably quick stop using just the TBC.
i've noticed this. on my old aftermarket the brakes have way more power. on my brand new chevy 3500 the brakes have way more power. in my dump, all the way up there isn't much. i have a 2012 XL, do I have a high medium and low?
I have a 2015 F250 diesel that I pull a 5th wheel with. I know how to adjust the gain, but my initial setting is just not enough. On page 199 of my Ford manual it states "You can adjust the amount of initial trailer brake output by selecting one of three settings through the message center." Does anyone know the steps one takes in the message center to reach this function? There are no videos on this that I can find. Ford help will put you on hold forever. Thanks.
If you're not getting enough braking action at the trailer, check to make sure the wires at each brake are getting power. If they are, then adjust the brakes. Still no joy? Replace the magnet in the brakes. My plan is to buy an assembly that comes with the whole thing, brake shoes, magnet and hardware.
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