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I have a triple axle (single wheel) gooseneck tilt deck trailer that I pull my older dozer and backhoe on.
With the trailer brake gain set to 10 I don't have as much brake engagement as I would like. It actually wont lock them up at all when adjusting the gain. Loaded I don't feel any engagement when manually sliding the controller.
On my sons 99 f350, with after market controller he can adjust his output so that the brakes engauge\lock at just about any adjustment (way over breaking) so I believe the trailer brakes work fine, I just don't get enough output from the factory controller.
Is there any additional adjustments the factory controller has or any suggestions to increase the output more so the brakes have a bit more engagement?
Based on you saying the trailer has been tested on another vehicle, I'm kind of confused by the issue because I can lock up our fifth wheel loaded to the max with over 15k in tow no problem and that's only set to 9 on the factory controller. I'd point to your trailer well before I'd blame the controller. That being said, if it works on the other truck, then something is going on. I just know for a fact something is dead wrong because manually sliding the controller you will most certainly feel resistance at a minimum if things are working properly. Time to start testing the output of the truck the trailer wiring. Is it possible the trailer is mis-wired, but matches your son's truck wiring and that is why it works on his, but not yours?
Yeah looked mine up after reading that and sure enough was set on medium, no wonder I had a hairy sudden stop the other day when the trailer brakes didn't work as they should have. My understanding is it may only be a '15 MY thing though.
Is it possible the trailer is mis-wired, but matches your son's truck wiring and that is why it works on his, but not yours?
I do get some braking output\resistance and it might be enough, I just know that I don't have enough to lock them up when attempting to set the gain correctly. I can also hear the brakes energize. On gravel I can get them to lock, on hard surface they resist and do slow me, but still roll. The owners manual mentions that not all may completely lock up.
I also have a 14k dual axle single wheel dump trailer, and empty it will lock about 6 gain and full about 8 gain. They are both wired the same, and work similar, although my son has to decrease his output sensitivity when switching between the two or the dump trailer locks with very little gain. Same with the horse trailer.
The tiltdeck is a 1977, but i did update the brakeaway and battery 2 years ago. I was thinking that perhaps with three axles and older actuators they required additional output to fully engergize which is why my son can adjust his output sensitivity and do fine, but i don't have the range to do so.
Anyone have an ideal what the output range should be from the brake controller output wire?
If your brakes are not auto-adjusting, you may need to adjust some as the brakes wear. I have a 2011 and the TBC is in .5 increments 1-10. But I still must get under the 5th wheel every year or so and adjust the brakes a bit, give it a few ticks to tighten up the clearance on the shoes. I have had to do this with older 5ers and I just did a small adjustment on my new one. It does not take much.
Thats an IMO on this.
2014's are set up that way too. And I'm not sure but I think I recall the 2013 also had this ability.
Mine only has settings for 1-10, but also has the ability to select electric over hydraulic. I don't have low, medium and high. Can the 2015's still switch to electric over hydraulic?
I have a similar problem and while I don't discount the possibility of a trailer brake inadequacy, I think the main question hasn't really been addressed. Why is it that I can lock up the trailer with an aftermarket controller, but not with the factory one- and is there a way to increase the factory controller output?
On the productivity screen, choose "Settings", then "Driver Assist", then "Trailer Brake, then "Trailer brake Effort". I don't know if this is possible on all models or not, but that is the way to set the factory brake controller on mine. Best of luck to you.
If you hang a clamp meter on the blue lead at the J-box on your trailer and have some one operate you controller manually to max, you should see close to 12 amps when the magnets are at full power (two axles trailer or 3 amps per wheel).
Most dealers and technicians like myself also have a test box we can plug into your seven pin that tell you what your controller is actually putting out.
It is difficult to answer your question regarding trailer comparison without some real world numbers and knowing trailer weights.
Mine only has settings for 1-10, but also has the ability to select electric over hydraulic. I don't have low, medium and high. Can the 2015's still switch to electric over hydraulic?
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