I've searched high and low on search and all over the internet. I've got a roller 302 out of at 98 explorer with gt40p heads edelbrocker performer rpm and 600 carb. I have seen some guys here running explorer cam and mustang HO cams. Is anyone else running any beefier cams. I already have beehive springs and just looking for a little better cam instead of the stocker. It is auto c6 and most call for a higher stall. If anyone is running a hotter cam, what stall are you running? Truck is 2wd swb. Thanks in advance.

 

Has no one put a newer 302 in these trucks?

 

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Someone prolly has but I think your question might be better suited to the Explorer or Windsor engine forum since the likelihood that someone used an Explorer 5.0 in here is relatively low... and lower yet with a cam upgrade while mucking with the TQ converter stall speed. We'd usually just use the heads.

We're mosty happy just to get whatever engine we have beefed up and running... 300, 28 oz 302s, 360, 390,351M, 400, and 460.

Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Thanks HIO Silver I'll look in there and see what I can come up with. I'm definitely in the same boat with keeping my old stuff going. It has took me three years to get all the parts to build up this motor. I'm just wanting to do it right once and be done.

 

Very cool. And kudos on your stick-to-it-ivness on building your bullet.

I think it might help to ask who is running a cam hotter than 0.XXX lift and XXX-degrees of lobe separation (the Explorer or HO cam specs).

We can usually remember what we have installed in our own blocks but not remember what cams are used in other applications.

 

I have a 5.0L H.O. EFI engine from a 1990 Mustang GT, a GT40 tubular upper intake, Cobra lower intake and Explorer GT40P heads. --They just aren't in my truck yet. I have a 4R70W overdrive transmission to install as well. I have a new 2500 stall converter for it. My current rear end gears are 3.50:1.

The Mustang 5.0L cams had a .444" lift. The '93 Cobra 5.0L engines had a .473" lift. The 5.0L Explorers had a .422" lift.

Stock Explorer valve springs would not work well with a stock Mustang 5.0L cam and definitely not with a stock Cobra spec cam (great potential for coil bind).

For that matter, the stock 5.0L valve springs are usually pretty much used up by 85,000 miles of use on them so, it's especially good that you're replacing your stock Explorer valve springs.

A truck is heavy and needs a cam that makes good low to mid-range torque for street or highway use. Rear end gear ratio needs to be at least in the 3.50-3.70:1 range.

The Mustang and Explorer forums can probably give you more of the answers you're looking for, just remember the Mustang forums are going to be dealing with a lighter vehicle than a truck and very few of those 5.0L engines on the Mustang forums would be carbureted.

 

... ultraranger is not "most guys". He is an exception... and exceptional.

 

I was 'ultrastang' long before I was 'ultraranger.' I got bitten by the Mustang bug when I was 13 (1979). I bought my first Mustang --a '68 model, when I was 15. 33 years later, I still have that '68.

I've also had a '66 Mustang fastback, an '89 5.0L Mustang GT, two '90 5.0L Mustang GTs and my current daily driver (since new) is an Azure Blue 2003 Mustang Mach 1.

I'm not the smartest guy around and I don't know everything there is to know about Fords in general or specifically about Mustangs but, I do have over three decades worth of busted knuckles and the wisdom that comes from just being around these vehicles for that length of time. --the school of hard knocks is an excellent teacher.

I do appreciate your comment though.

 

great! stuff

 

You'll need an '85 or newer block to go with a roller cam - the older ones don't have the provisions for bolting in the "spider" that holds the lifters in place so they won't spin.

I've got a roller 5.0 HO in mine - basically the equivalent of an '85 Mustang GT engine with E7TE heads. Stock Mustang HO cam. I didn't want anything "beefier" because this isn't a drag racer - big, lopey cams are mostly designed for high-RPM power bands, while I preferred low-mid RPM responsiveness and driveability. That cam is pretty good from around idle to 5000 RPM, which is what I was looking for.

One Mustang forum I've found very helpful in dealing with the carbureted 5.0 is foureyedpride.com - they focus on the '79-86 FOX Mustangs, which are mostly pre-EFI.

 

I swapped a roller 5.0 out of a 95 f150 into my 79 2wd shortbed. Its all stock with a Edelbrock performer intake, 600cfm holley, stock converter in a c6 trans, and a 3.00 rear gear. Its not a powerhouse but its alot more peppy that then late 70's 302 that it replaced and I get mileage in the mid to high teens.

 

I had an '87 Crown Vic 2 door drag car that I started off with an '01 Explorer engine in. GT40P, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley 600 DP, with a 3400 stall Dirty Dog converter in front of an AOD. It was a big car (3600#), but ran in the low 13s on street tires. That was with an early speed density HO stick (earlier SD grinds have more duration than the later MAF grinds), installed straight up, with 1.7 rockers (they came stock on a Cobra). I spent the time to shim the rockers for the right valve stem witness marks and I had the correct length pushrods made. An HO grind is .472" lift at the valve with 1.7 rockers.

There are OTS (off the shelf) grinds available for use with stock pistons. I know folks who have run the COMP XE 264, and XE 258. Both great grinds, especially in a havir vehicle, if you have the converter.

I had intended to run an Anderson N41 in that little 306, but ended up selling the car before that. I believe both the Anderson N21 and N41 will work with stock pistons.

But, any cam company is going to recommend you clay and measure for PTV clearance.

I will echo the above sentiments about valve springs (but you mentioned having bee hive springs). With factory explorer valve sprngs, you would be captain valve float. I had a trick flow spring kit in my engine; it was cheap, and worked great. I used to turn the engine to 6500 without a hitch (MSD pro billet, and a 6AL).

I will also say that if you are changing the cam, toss the lifters and get a set of FRPP replacements. It is cheap insurance.

Ultraranger is right on with the gearing; I would go 4.10. My Crown Vic had 3.73s, and that was perfect with the 3400 stall. The car was snappy as hell and would blaze the street tires if you flashed the converter. Do not be cheaper with your converter choice. It makes all the difference in the world.

The driveability of my 306 was fabntastic with the stock cam. The car idled great, got decent mileage (I had a non lock up converter), throttle response was awesome (The DP was basically out of the box).

Don't listen to anyone who says you can't run mechanical secondaries in a heavy vehicle with an automatic transmission. With the right gear and converter wit will be the definition of throttle response.

My .02