Hey guys just picked up a '71 302 to replace the stock 302 on my 1980 f100. I plan to swap my edelbrock performer intake and my 600 cfm holley to the new 302. I'd like to put in a new cam, lifters, pushrods, springs and rockers, but money only permits a cam and lifter swap for now.

Summit has some pretty cheap cam and lifter kits under their name. From what I've seen people haven't had really many problems with the summit brand. What cam do you guys recommend? If you guys think they're total junk i'm open to other affordable brands

Truck isn't a daily driver, I drive it on the weekends if the weather is nice. I'd like as much power as I can get but I don't want a power band that's too high. I don't know much about cams... Not sure what's in the engine now as far as hydraulic or solid lifters etc.

Thanks alot for the feedback!

Ben

 

You have hydraulics.

1980 not being much of a performance year, I would worry that the stock springs might coil bind with a higher lift cam. However, I don't find that warning on the couple of street or street/strip cams I looked at on Summit.

They say you "may" have to change such parts....

I can't recall what year they changed from the press-in stud to pedestal mounted rockers on the SBF.

One other thing would be your stock oil seals. Ford uses the neoprene umbrella seals, and they tend to come apart or at least crack with not a lot of time on them.

Later model Explorer GT40 heads may also be a consideration. Better flow and compression. Plenty of threads here about that.

 

Concur... You want cheap performance? Go snag the cam and heads off of a 98 - 01 explorer... That will wake her up. Of course that older block wont have the provisions for the roller lifter retainer tray so you might just take the entire engine. If nothing else, get the heads and get your cam ground to a more aggressive profile. Even doing this you might save enough to do your intake.

 

Hell here is a deal... I have a used Marine cam and lifter set thats not selling on ebay. $50 its yours; includes shipping provided your in the states.

Marine cams are aggressive with low end torque; right up your alley. Its hard to tell what push rods you will need doing this but I can throw in the two sets I have also; one set is from the flat tappet engine and the other is oem from the explorer.

This sucker will give you a nice rumble; that coupled with the gt40p's, you'll be in business.

 

The wife wants this shìt gone...

 

Crazy's deal not withstanding...

I found the best deal at NorthernAutoParts.com they've got quite a few options, a share lower priced than what I found through Summit. And I've spent some time on the phone with the guys there and they were great for answering "stupid" questions.

That said, my local machine shop cut me a deal on my engine rebuild and got me a Melling cam for the same price as the stuff I was looking at through Northern without the cost of shipping! But they're an option.

Also, been doing a lot of research on heads lately and if you've really got a 71 (not a 72+) the online consensus is their heads are as good of performers as the GT40 heads and will take stock exhaust manifolds. The GT40P heads require a special exhaust manifold, but both are cheaper than the harder to find GT40 heads from 96-97.

If you're interested I can dig up some of the spec sheets I found online...saved on my office computer.

Peace,
Jim

 

Yeah the p's run strong on my boat... The deal with them is the plug is not angled as much... It sticks almost straight out. You could always get exploder manifolds. They are kinda like small tube shorties.

I also have a set of DO0E's for cheaper... They need redone though. Unless your in NorCal shipping would be cost prohibitive. Good flow On this type of head also.

 

thanks alot crazy, but i think i'll take a pass for now

And Jim I'm fairly certain i have a 71, casting numbers are "D10E-6015-AA". From what i've looked up that means it's a 302 from 71 out of a fairlane or torino. But that's what's on the block i guess the heads could have been swapped out in forty years...

All i can find on the heads are "1D21" on the driver's, and "1E20" on the passenger's sides. That's what's visible, maybe their are more numbers on them on the underside, but I don't want to take them off unless i have to...

As far as a cam i guess a few extra bucks doesn't really matter... lol
Comp 31-238-3
Comp 31-216-2
First is an extreme energy, second is a high energy
Any experience with them anyone? Thanks alot for all the input guys!

 

I referenced 1980 earlier in error. Your '71 car motor, while it would be plagued with the umbrella seals, should run pretty good stock. I base this on my '66 289 2v in my Mustang. Your motor might have a tick less compression, but it has a slightly larger intake valve.

I used to run mine to 5500 rpms with the stock cam and valve springs. I ran a Holley 500 2bbl briefly, but swapped it out for a Ford 2bbl off a 390.
(original carb was a "1.08" 287 cfm, the 390 job was a "1.23" 356 cfm:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...fo-needed.html)

So your manifold and 4bbl, along with even a mild cam upgrade, ought to keep you and the guy selling you rear tires pretty happy.

 

80,
Here's a link to some head specs based on casting numbers.
Carbed Ford Message Board :: View topic - Small Block Ford Head Specs

Your head stampings suggest April and May heads, probably from 71...or 81...91...01...I don't think they made them in 61. In other words; it's not the actual head stamp (Which should read D1Something Something), but it adds evidence to an actual 71 302. Those have small 58cc combustion chambers which are great for high compression ratio power. I've been searching for flow specs and the best I could find so far was here:
"Head to Head" - Flow Testing Small Block Ford Cylinder Heads - AFR, Brodix, Canfield, Edelbrock, Trick Flow, GT40 - FordMuscle
It's actually data on the 351w head, but is the closest I've found so far. FWIW.

Peace,
Jim

 

It's back and just running like a watch. Owner, my friend, is tickled pink. Definitely a whole new truck with that cam in there, expensive but worth it.

Break in filter had minor debris, second filter was as clean as they get. I have heard a slight tapping sound since it went in that has cost me some sleep but this spotless filter had me running the truck overhead on my lift listening to the throw out bearing, which taps, and is about the only thing I did not replace.

I was so careful with both the front, and rear, main seals and they are both leaking. Timken seals with a new dampener, actually the second front I have installed in there. Not happy about it.

The water pump has now leaked twice, once on the first real spirited test drive, I had a total failure with an overheat and everything. Now, back for this oil change it is weeping, from the lower two bolts on the back plate. I see threads everywhere about this, but I wonder if the cooling system is over pressuring. It does have a new cap, these have been two new pumps with fel-pro blue gaskets, installed dry.

Any advice on getting that pump to seal? Thanks again for all the help, it really is running sweet.

 

You appear to be lost. Are you trying to reply to an earlier thread that you started? I found a couple, but let me know here and I'll try to get you back to your own thread.