Hydroboost Upgrade

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Jun 29, 2015 | 03:52 PM

#46

JEFFFAFA

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Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 14,255

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From: Phoenix, Az.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cracker289

I finished my conversion yesterday, went for a test drive. The pedal feel is perfect in my opinion, I was worried about it being overly sensitive because of some of the stories I had read, but it was actually fine. The pedal moves about an inch or so and then it feels nice and solid. You can press a little to slow down or if you really want, jam it hard and make it stop on a dime.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...psarfzunsl.jpg

Adjustable prop valve in case I need to tweak things later.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...psze7n0ug7.jpg

Glad to hear it went well Cracker.

Sounds like you had a big O' smile on your face on that test drive.

Jun 29, 2015 | 04:36 PM

#47

kenny nunez

Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2011

Posts: 2,251

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From: Kenner,La.

hydro boost

Just to be sure, try checking the assist when the engine is not running to see if there is enough residual pressure to stop the truck.
The best adjustable proportional valve I have used is the one from Stainless Steel Brakes, Summit has them.

Jun 29, 2015 | 07:48 PM

#48

ultraranger

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Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 6,399

Likes: 40

From: El Dorado, Arkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenny nunez

The cylindrical object sticking out of the hydroboost unit is the accumulator. It's the object that holds the stored hydraulic pressure so that if the engine dies or, the power steering pump fails, you still have a few powered brake applications left (about 2-4 applications), before it's depleted and you no longer have any power assist.

Jun 29, 2015 | 08:49 PM

#49

kenny nunez

Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2011

Posts: 2,251

Likes: 306

From: Kenner,La.

hydro boost

I must agree about the cylinder, I believe it has nitrogen in it to provide assist, however as I stated in a previous post to check it out that it does still have the nitrogen charge. I had to replace the one I had because it was defective.

Jun 29, 2015 | 09:16 PM

#50

ultraranger

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Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 6,399

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From: El Dorado, Arkansas

Some hydroboost unit accumulators have a nitrogen charge, some simply use a stout spring and are charged by the PS pump pressure.

Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair

Jun 30, 2015 | 07:14 AM

#51

kenny nunez

Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2011

Posts: 2,251

Likes: 306

From: Kenner,La.

Hydro boost

Thanks, Ultra. The one I now have works good and the article is helpful. I have seen the ones with no outside reserve chamber, 81 Buick Riveara for instance.
Those must be the ones that use a spring instead of nitrogen.

Jun 30, 2015 | 07:44 AM

#52

Cracker289

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Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 2,740

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From: Four Oaks, NC

I gave it a nice test drive yesterday, I brought a truckload of firewood, along with a trailer full of firewood, about 30 miles. All in all probably 1500 pounds loaded up. The brakes were fantastic never any hesitation to slow down or stop. With the old manual drums I would have had to start pressing the brakes a lonnnngggg way before any red light or stop sign, especially with a heavy load, but I was very pleased with my new front discs and the hydroboost assist. HIO Silver asked me to do a write up start-to-finish with part numbers, dimensions, pictures, etc, and I am working on that now. I think this is a great upgrade for an old bumpside although I do believe you should already have disc brakes before doing the hydroboost, I don't know of anyone that has added it to 4x drums and not sure if that would be a good idea or not.

Jul 1, 2015 | 12:05 AM

#53

Cracker289

Thread Starter

Cargo Master

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 2,740

Likes: 20

From: Four Oaks, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenny nunez

The accumulator thing seems to hold enough pressure in reserve for 4 stops. After I depleted it, it was very difficult to stop the truck, but it's nice to know that you still have 4 stops with the engine off, that should be enough to safely get off the road in case of engine failure.

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Jul 1, 2015 | 07:39 AM

#54

f100today

Posting Guru

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 1,650

Likes: 16

From: DFW Texas

pictures.....we want pictures!

Jul 1, 2015 | 03:23 PM

#55

Cracker289

Thread Starter

Cargo Master

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 2,740

Likes: 20

From: Four Oaks, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by f100today

pictures.....we want pictures!

Hey I thought I loaded it up with pictures as I went is there anything in particular I can get a pic of to show you?

This is my unit, installed, with master cylinder and hoses and everything, in working order:

<a href="http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/crazycracker289/media/F-100/69%20F100%20Brake%20Upgrade/img_0325%20close_zpsarfzunsl.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/crazycracker289/F-100/69%20F100%20Brake%20Upgrade/img_0325%20close_zpsarfzunsl.jpg" border="0" alt="Master Cylinder installed to hydro-boost photo img_0325 close_zpsarfzunsl.jpg"/></a>

Jul 1, 2015 | 04:19 PM

#56

ultraranger

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Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 6,399

Likes: 40

From: El Dorado, Arkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cracker289

Looks like you used an '84-'86 Mustang SVO/'84-'90 Mk VII MC.

I've also used that MC before.

Jul 1, 2015 | 04:27 PM

#57

Cracker289

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Joined: Jul 2003

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From: Four Oaks, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultraranger

Looks like you used an '84-'86 Mustang SVO/'84-'90 Mk VII MC.

I've also used that MC before.

Master cylinder for 79 Lincoln Continental w/hydroboost, part number M1603. It may be the same one used on SVO Mustang's 5 years later though. What is the bore size of the one you used? This one is 1-1/8

Jul 1, 2015 | 04:54 PM

#58

ultraranger

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Joined: Apr 2011

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Likes: 40

From: El Dorado, Arkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cracker289

Yep. 1.125" (1-1/8") bore, aluminum body.

This is what the primary and secondary pistons look like, inside the MC --MC on the left in the following photo.

Jul 1, 2015 | 05:05 PM

#59

Cracker289

Thread Starter

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Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 2,740

Likes: 20

From: Four Oaks, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultraranger

Yep. 1.125" (1-1/8") bore, aluminum body.

This is what the primary and secondary pistons look like, inside the MC --MC on the left in the following photo.

Oh ok mine is cast iron body. I painted it with dupli-color "caliper paint" and so the color migh tlook like aluminum, but its cast iron.

Jul 1, 2015 | 05:29 PM

#60

ultraranger

Lead Driver

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 6,399

Likes: 40

From: El Dorado, Arkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cracker289

Oh ok mine is cast iron body. I painted it with dupli-color "caliper paint" and so the color migh tlook like aluminum, but its cast iron.

Ahh, a little paint trickery there.

The one I have pictured above is the same casting, just in aluminum --doesn't rust on the outside or the inside.

Unfortunately, unlike a 'modern' MC, it still requires taking the lid off to see how much fluid is inside.

The down side to that is, everytime the lid is taken off, it dislodges dirt (and rust from around the rim, if the MC is cast iron) that falls over into the MC, when the lid is taken loose. It also let's air, which has moisture in it, get inside and the moisture permeates into the brake fluid.

This degrades the 'dry' boiling point of the brake fluid and also allows extra moisture in to attack ferrous brake components.

'Modern' MCs have see through reservoirs and light weight, non-rusting, aluminum bodies. Being able to see the fluid level without having to take the lid off greatly reduces the amount of debris and moisture that can get into the brake system, through the MC.

I was taking the Mk VII MC loose (in the photo above) to replace it with this MC (1996 Ford Windstar 4-wheel disc MC, 1-1/16" bore).

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