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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Hydroboost Upgrade

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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 03:38 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by nevrenufhp
I think it would be easier to cut the spacers down 1/8" at a time. Widdle em down til you get the desired pedal.
Oh, well I thought making one cut and one weld was pretty simple. And the hydro is flush with the firewall. I guess if you have no means to weld then the spacer will do it.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 07:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by f100today
Oh, well I thought making one cut and one weld was pretty simple. And the hydro is flush with the firewall. I guess if you have no means to weld then the spacer will do it.
ah yes. I wasn't thinking about that part of the picture.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #33  
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ultraranger: "That's the way it goes when adapting something that wasn't designed for what you're trying to put it on."
- I know, right? And then when I tried to 'out-think' it I just made more work for myself. D'oh!

f100today: "I just cut a section out of the push rod and welded it back together."
- I thought about that, but to me it seemed easier to just add some spacers. Now in hindsight, your way seems better.

nevrenufhp: "I think it would be easier to cut the spacers down 1/8" at a time. Widdle em down til you get the desired pedal."
- If you knew how difficult it is to get this thing in place you would not suggest that! lol. It's heavy, awkward, you have to be twisted & bent in 2 positions to maneuver yourself over the fender & around the hood hinge, holding it with 1 hand while trying to start a bolt & keep a spacer in place with the other hand. In muggy NC summer heat.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 10:56 PM
  #34  
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[/QUOTE]
- If you knew how difficult it is to get this thing in place you would not suggest that! lol. It's heavy, awkward, you have to be twisted & bent in 2 positions to maneuver yourself over the fender & around the hood hinge, holding it with 1 hand while trying to start a bolt & keep a spacer in place with the other hand. In muggy NC summer heat.[/QUOTE]
I do know how painful it is, I did it a few months ago.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 11:59 PM
  #35  
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- If you knew how difficult it is to get this thing in place you would not suggest that! lol. It's heavy, awkward, you have to be twisted & bent in 2 positions to maneuver yourself over the fender & around the hood hinge, holding it with 1 hand while trying to start a bolt & keep a spacer in place with the other hand. In muggy NC summer heat.[/QUOTE]
I do know how painful it is, I did it a few months ago.[/QUOTE]

I hope you didn't have to take it out & remount it several times! I am glad I made my holes bigger than the bolt it's the only thing saving me & letting me get them started.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 05:21 PM
  #36  
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master cylinder

Cracker, I am using a M -C aluminum 1&1/8" from a F150.
A word of caution on Hydro Boost, make sure to test it for the residual assist without the engine running, they some time do not assist when the engine is off and the pedal goes to the floor. Try it where there is a lot of room by stopping the engine and checking the assist. I had one that must have been defective and one day I pushed in the clutch to coast to a stop sign and the engine died, the pedal went to the floor, if I had an automatic I would have wrecked my XL. I just let out the clutch and saved it.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 10:14 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by kenny nunez
Cracker, I am using a M -C aluminum 1&1/8" from a F150.
A word of caution on Hydro Boost, make sure to test it for the residual assist without the engine running, they some time do not assist when the engine is off and the pedal goes to the floor. Try it where there is a lot of room by stopping the engine and checking the assist. I had one that must have been defective and one day I pushed in the clutch to coast to a stop sign and the engine died, the pedal went to the floor, if I had an automatic I would have wrecked my XL. I just let out the clutch and saved it.
That is pretty scary, they're supposed to have a pressurized reservoir that has enough for 5 or 6 stops with the engine off, but even with that malfunctioning or all used up I would have thought that it still worked physically like manual brakes, just no power assist. I am going to try mine out as soon as I finished plumbing everything.

I decided to go with a 1-1/8 bore m/c as well, from a 70's Lincoln. The cast iron style is very similar to the original so it won't look out of place, like the later model cylinder shaped aluminum m/c with plastic reservoir from the F450 would have.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 02:02 PM
  #38  
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Subscribed. I've wanted to do this for a long time.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 03:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by abyars111
Subscribed. I've wanted to do this for a long time.
I'll have an update tomorrow! It's pretty hot & muggy lately and I have not spent much time out in the heat working on it but I have to make progress in the next couple of days so I can move my truck.

Do you already have disc brakes?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 09:42 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Cracker289
I'll have an update tomorrow! It's pretty hot & muggy lately and I have not spent much time out in the heat working on it but I have to make progress in the next couple of days so I can move my truck.

Do you already have disc brakes?
It's too hot and muggy here as well.

Yes, my truck came with the dual piston Dayton front disc brakes and it has the larger rear drums. I put the F350 dual diaphragm booster on it. It's stops well and doesn't require a ton of pressure but I'd like to make it easier with hydroboost.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 10:52 AM
  #41  
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I finally got the spacers right. Using 1-1/4 spacers at the top and 1-1/2 spacers at the bottom, my brake pedal is perfect. Does not come up too far and does not go down too far.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...pspa4qeehd.jpg

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...psk2gicjg0.jpg

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90ntabdb.jpg
 
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 10:54 AM
  #42  
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- If you knew how difficult it is to get this thing in place you would not suggest that! lol. It's heavy, awkward, you have to be twisted & bent in 2 positions to maneuver yourself over the fender & around the hood hinge, holding it with 1 hand while trying to start a bolt & keep a spacer in place with the other hand. In muggy NC summer heat.[/QUOTE]
I do know how painful it is, I did it a few months ago.[/QUOTE]

Putting it on and taking it off was killing me, bad angle to try to hold it in place, spacers kept falling off and I'd have to put it down, crawl under the truck and retrieve them. Finally I decided to mount it on threaded rod instead so I could just slide it on and off. Doesn't look as good as it did with bolts but it was easier and plenty functional.

<a href="http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/crazycracker289/media/F-100/69%20F100%20Brake%20Upgrade/IMG_0313_zps2uuffzaj.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af330/crazycracker289/F-100/69%20F100%20Brake%20Upgrade/IMG_0313_zps2uuffzaj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0313_zps2uuffzaj.jpg"/></a>
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 05:33 AM
  #43  
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I finished my conversion yesterday, went for a test drive. The pedal feel is perfect in my opinion, I was worried about it being overly sensitive because of some of the stories I had read, but it was actually fine. The pedal moves about an inch or so and then it feels nice and solid. You can press a little to slow down or if you really want, jam it hard and make it stop on a dime.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...psarfzunsl.jpg

Adjustable prop valve in case I need to tweak things later.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/...psze7n0ug7.jpg
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 08:37 AM
  #44  
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That's great. I'm glad you got it all worked out.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 11:26 AM
  #45  
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