HELP
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
That depends, my friend, on how much money you want to spend and whether or not you're going to keep the truck long enough for another EBPV leak to develop sometime in the upcoming 5-10 years or so.
My post above covers the options and reasons for/against each... it is your call completely. Either of the "new parts" approach will address your issue, assuming still that it is the EBPV hardware which is the leak source. The rebuild will take you longer, but is cheaper and still leaves a leak potential in future years.
My post above covers the options and reasons for/against each... it is your call completely. Either of the "new parts" approach will address your issue, assuming still that it is the EBPV hardware which is the leak source. The rebuild will take you longer, but is cheaper and still leaves a leak potential in future years.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
I've attached the pictures you sent me so that others can see them too. They were too large to load individually, so I reduced the file view size and ported them all into a single PDF file which is a lot easier to work with for folks who are using their phones to respond.
From those pictures... I assume they were taken after the leak developed. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Assuming that I'm correct above, you should check all your valve cover bolts because you might just have a couple of loose ones on the rear passenger side cover.
Anyone else have any other ideas for Brandon?
ALSO.... Brandon... any evidence of oil spraying around elsewhere in the valley, like on relays or hoses or even the under side of the hood? If so, you probably also need to check your HPOP fittings at the heads. I just read a thread where one guy had a problem with one of his HPOP fittings spraying a fine mist, and this would certainly get worse when under the higher flow associated with higher rpms.
From those pictures... I assume they were taken after the leak developed. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Assuming that I'm correct above, you should check all your valve cover bolts because you might just have a couple of loose ones on the rear passenger side cover.
Anyone else have any other ideas for Brandon?
ALSO.... Brandon... any evidence of oil spraying around elsewhere in the valley, like on relays or hoses or even the under side of the hood? If so, you probably also need to check your HPOP fittings at the heads. I just read a thread where one guy had a problem with one of his HPOP fittings spraying a fine mist, and this would certainly get worse when under the higher flow associated with higher rpms.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
If it is still leaking from the same fitting, what was it that you did for the solution? Tighten only? Rebuilt the fitting with new internal oring? Try to just seal the threads into the head? Replace the fitting altogether?
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Great. Thanks for the feedback on the solution. Those pedestal o-rings can be a pain. What I try to remember to do with o-rings is to use a thin film of tacky grease to help them stick and stay in place while I'm putting things back together (but I do NOT always remember because I just don't have to do it very often). I just learned to apply the same trick to my u-joint grease cups a couple of weekends ago. Works great.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
No video attached.
BTW... where in LA are you located? I'm orignally from Satsuma (north of Mobile on 43), and still have family there. Been in Birmingham for almost 9 years now, and I travel to Selma regularly for day-long business trips.
BTW... where in LA are you located? I'm orignally from Satsuma (north of Mobile on 43), and still have family there. Been in Birmingham for almost 9 years now, and I travel to Selma regularly for day-long business trips.
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