oil leak, where?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
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oil leak, where?
hello hello...
i've got an oil leak, i'd say i'm down 1/2 quart over driving a hundred miles or so. The valley behind the HPOP is dry. The back of the oil pan is wet, maybe moreso on the right side and bottom of tranny is dripping with oil.
Any suggestions where to look? not very easy to see it all back there. Thanks!
i've got an oil leak, i'd say i'm down 1/2 quart over driving a hundred miles or so. The valley behind the HPOP is dry. The back of the oil pan is wet, maybe moreso on the right side and bottom of tranny is dripping with oil.
Any suggestions where to look? not very easy to see it all back there. Thanks!
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
Get yourself a flashlight and jump on that engine, look around the turbo area. There is a hole that drains the valley on the passenger side in back of the block. Like Chase, something around the turbo is my call also. If need be, clean the valley real good, then drive around a little, then look again.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 356
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From: South East PA.
If it turns out to be pedestal O-rings, it shouldn't take a weekend to change them out, depending on your mechanical ability's, give yourself half a day to a day. The worst part of the job is laying across the engine while doing it.
Dan
Dan
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
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I looked around, sure is an oily mess, and hard to see where the leak may be. However i believe that's it, i bet it's coming out of the pedistal. when i look at the back of the motor from underneath, it's enough to leak down both sides of motor, mostly on top, going down the top of the transmission (then around). It sure apprears because of that, to come from the valley area, however when i look on top, the valley "cups" have no oil. is there some sort of drain out of the area's that look like cups?
If it is the pedistal, and it is only a few hours (yup, pretty darn good at mechanics, never had a turbo diesel, but no prob's rebuilding '68 mopar engines
) are you saying i won't have to take the exhaust pipes off? I heard that's a real bugger, and it is possible to break a bolt as we all know.
Thanks for any more advice on finding the leak (hard to see around pedistal) and tips on replacing that o-ring if that's truely it.
Guy
If it is the pedistal, and it is only a few hours (yup, pretty darn good at mechanics, never had a turbo diesel, but no prob's rebuilding '68 mopar engines
) are you saying i won't have to take the exhaust pipes off? I heard that's a real bugger, and it is possible to break a bolt as we all know.Thanks for any more advice on finding the leak (hard to see around pedistal) and tips on replacing that o-ring if that's truely it.
Guy
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Newport, WA
Guy, no need to remove the up-pipes. You just loosen and remove the clamp on the downpipe and the one holding the up pipe collector to the turbo. 2 bolts to get the turbo out, and a few more for the pedistal.
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Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
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From: Grand Lake, La.
Yep, what chase said, plus one clamp on the spider, but you will need to take the spider off to get the turbo out. The intake tube has to come off and you need to take the rod for the EBPV off. This rod will also leak, the one on the pedestal. Look for oil coming out of where the rod goes into the pedestal. I would also take the drivers side IC pipe off.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
Yep, what chase said, plus one clamp on the spider, but you will need to take the spider off to get the turbo out. The intake tube has to come off and you need to take the rod for the EBPV off. This rod will also leak, the one on the pedestal. Look for oil coming out of where the rod goes into the pedestal. I would also take the drivers side IC pipe off.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
Here are a couple of pics that will help you out with the clip on the EBPV actuator rod. Push clip toward turbo. Where this rod goes into pedestal is also where oil leaks can occur.
If you do remove the turbo you might as well replace both sets of O-rings.
Between the turbo and pedestal and between the pedestal and block.
If you do remove the turbo you might as well replace both sets of O-rings.
Between the turbo and pedestal and between the pedestal and block.
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
Good pics Robin, that always helps.
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ok, thanks. I'll print this out and use those photos when i get that far. maybe i can start taking it off in the evenings, then by the weekend put it all back together. Will i have to go to the stealership to get the o-rings? any other parts?
So, to clarify, i don't need to get at any rusted bolts, right? Just wanting to make sure i should not be pre-treating any. I'm not really looking forward to this, when i did the exhaust, it was a bugger just to get the up pipe collar back on, can't imagine doing all these items in tights spots.
Thanks!
So, to clarify, i don't need to get at any rusted bolts, right? Just wanting to make sure i should not be pre-treating any. I'm not really looking forward to this, when i did the exhaust, it was a bugger just to get the up pipe collar back on, can't imagine doing all these items in tights spots.
Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Order the turbo o-rings here tonight and you will have them by Friday. Guzzle's Diesel O-Rings