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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

does e4OD really suck that much power from the engine?

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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 10:43 AM
  #31  
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After many problems...

I had my e4od rebuilt with upgrades. Had many problems with the truck stalling in reverse and took truck back to shop after they made a mistake in the rebuild. I think they added a shift kit and this think shifts solid and hard very quick response, I would say 40% more power
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 11:24 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by garagegods
I had my e4od rebuilt with upgrades. Had many problems with the truck stalling in reverse and took truck back to shop after they made a mistake in the rebuild. I think they added a shift kit and this think shifts solid and hard very quick response, I would say 40% more power
Yeah shift kits are nice, I had one in my 97 Thunderbird which had the 4R70W transmission. Would burn the tires on the 1-2 shift and give them a nice chirp on the 2-3 shift. Still wished for a stick though.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 06:42 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by eakermeld
Thank you for that. Is there an alternate port I can place the pressure sender at?
I'm bumping this back to the top in hopes of finding the proper port for the temp sender AND the pressure sender since they can't both be in the pressure test port.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by eakermeld
I'm bumping this back to the top in hopes of finding the proper port for the temp sender AND the pressure sender since they can't both be in the pressure test port.

Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
You'd be better off triggering the fan off the temperature in the line to the cooler. That's a much different temperature than the pressure port or the pan. It can be A LOT hotter than either of those.
Temp sensor in line with the cooler and pressure sensor in the pressure port I would assume.

Could always use a brass T and have them both come off of the pressure port.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 08:43 PM
  #35  
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Keep in mind I am running 3 gauges. Trans pressure, trans CONVERTER temp and trans MAIN temp.

I already have the temp sender in the cooler line. It will be reading the converter temp which is considerably hotter than the actual trans temp. That will work nicely for your fan switch, though.

A tee coming off the pressure port will still give accurate pressure readings, but will place the temp sender too far away from the case for any kind of reliably accurate temp reading and any fluid that would get to the sender would be stagnant so it too would not give an accurate reading.

Thanks for the input. I appreciate everyone's input.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #36  
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What do you expect to see with the pressure gauge?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:12 PM
  #37  
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Not anything specific, but nobody has the gauge setup I described. So I have the parts and the ability and decided to do it. Just need to fine tune a few bumps in the road.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:13 PM
  #38  
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So how would you hook it up, Mark? No better advice than from the source!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:25 PM
  #39  
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So you guys are running the factory cooler that goes through the rad AND an aux cooler? My truck has a towing package and I thought that was the only ones w the tranny lines going through the radiator but I don't know for sure
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:30 PM
  #40  
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i used to run a temp sender in a t like that,coming out of the trans.after a few months,i learned all it was doing for me was making me extremely nervous and drawing way too much attention as it fluctuated so quickly and drastically.i switched over to the test port location and she remains under 200F all the time.less stress and concern.

Originally Posted by choate
So you guys are running the factory cooler that goes through the rad AND an aux cooler? My truck has a towing package and I thought that was the only ones w the tranny lines going through the radiator but I don't know for sure
yes.the radiator is by far your most effective cooler of the ATF.an aux cooler in line (after) only needs to cool it down some more for heavy hauling/towing duty.
if you only ran an aux cooler then you wouldn't have enough cooling during idle/off road duty where airflow wouldn't be sufficient.the radiator always cools the atf,as long as your cooling system is in good order.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #41  
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I put one if these on my e40d B&M ShiftPlus Electronic Shift Improver Kits works real well makes the shifts crisp and quick. Never did like the slush shifting. I added the temp gauge to the cooler line going to the radiator only I put mine at the tranny.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by choate
So you guys are running the factory cooler that goes through the rad AND an aux cooler? My truck has a towing package and I thought that was the only ones w the tranny lines going through the radiator but I don't know for sure
There is usually a factory aux cooler behind your grill if you have a tow package along with going through the radiator. I am thinking about taking out the stock aux cooler and buy a 6.0 cooler. Those things are huge and cool pretty well. My 6.0 stays under 180 while towing heavy loads. They are by far the biggest cooler ive ever seen on a pickup
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 06:13 PM
  #43  
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Installed the shift kit and deep trans pan this weekend. Pretty straight forward install. Only complaint would be there could be better instructions on where the steel spring and spring with the filter actually went. Overall happy with the shifts now. Firm and crisp. I gotta come up with another exhaust set up because mine doesn't for with the new pan. Darn long tube headers!
 
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