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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

does e4OD really suck that much power from the engine?

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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 10:34 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dixie460
but expect the torque converter to lock up right after the shift and pull your RPM down out of the sweet spot.
I absolutely HATE this about this trans. Hate it. Truck sounds so good getting on it then you hit 4th and it just sounds like its bogging. Glad im not the only person with this problem...
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 12:30 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Not necessarily a bad idea, just not an idea that will show any benefits. It won't help the trans, but it won't hurt it, either.
Ive been working on these rigs since i was 11. Im 24 now and am a bmw certified technician in Columbus, oh. Ive never really thought about the explainations you gave in that thread. Thank you for shedding aome light on the subject.

Some of the guys here have me fix their rigs. Theres 5 obs out here plus mine. They all ask me what im doing at bmw lol. I love these old tanks. I still prefer my 96 f250 with cam and gt40 heads because of the sound and 5spd trans over my 6.0. Its clean and turns heads. I get a lot of questions about it. I worked my way through a lot of problems and with the help of this site, have learned a lot! My first post here i didnt know the difference between a 4bbl and a c6. Read over that thread the other day and was like wow... that kid was an idiot lol
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 03:25 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BRay09
But the only reason being is it has a bung for a trans temp gauge
I hate to add snow to the rain I already threw on your parade, but in my opinion the pan is the WORST place you could put the temperature sensor. The pan is always the coolest spot in the transmission. That's the reading you're going to get, and if the bung is in a spot where there isn't much fluid movement you'll get a reading that doesn't hardly correspond to what's actually going on in the transmission.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 04:14 PM
  #19  
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My plan was to use the port on the driver side of the trans for the temp gauge. Then i was going to use a temporary gauge in the fitted port and compare the two to see what the difference was. Then i was going to make a decision on what temp the fan on my aux cooler would come on and figure out the proper temp difference between the two spots.

Maybe i can find a 3 or 4 wire temp sensor/switch and use that in the trans port....
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #20  
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You'd be better off triggering the fan off the temperature in the line to the cooler. That's a much different temperature than the pressure port or the pan. It can be A LOT hotter than either of those.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 04:49 PM
  #21  
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I assume i should tap into one of the inlets to the cooler then?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 05:28 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I hate to add snow to the rain I already threw on your parade, but in my opinion the pan is the WORST place you could put the temperature sensor. The pan is always the coolest spot in the transmission. That's the reading you're going to get, and if the bung is in a spot where there isn't much fluid movement you'll get a reading that doesn't hardly correspond to what's actually going on in the transmission.
I am in the process on building a triple gauge pod just for my transmission. A pressure gauge, a temp gauge labeled "converter temp" reading the temp coming out of the trans going to the cooler, and a temp gauge labeled "trans temp" that I was planning on putting the sender in the pan, but if you say that is a poor place for it, what would you suggest?
I already have a temp gauge installed now. It has been there for a couple of years now. It reads the temp at the inlet of the cooler on the radiator.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 05:48 PM
  #23  
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From: Elyria, OH
This is the cooler I got
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-526/?rtype=10

I plan on getting this for the fan. It comes on at 180 and shuts off at 165.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13021

ill be getting this for my temp gauge
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/da...FYJAaQod5kUA1g

Sound good?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 06:08 PM
  #24  
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From: South Central,MO

Instead of the line tap for the temp gauge, this has served well for me. Simple trip to the hardware store for a 1/4" tee and done.

I like the cooler and the temp switch setup. That should work nicely.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 06:23 PM
  #25  
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I didnt even think about doing it that way. It looks clean and a lot cheaper. Thanks bud. Ill do it that way.

Hopefully that fitting will come out for me. May end up replacing the lines when im installing all of these. Not sure if they are going to break when i go to remove them
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 06:41 PM
  #26  
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Glad to help. Good luck on the lines. Start soaking them with some kind on penetrant now.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 09:28 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by eakermeld
I am in the process on building a triple gauge pod just for my transmission. A pressure gauge, a temp gauge labeled "converter temp" reading the temp coming out of the trans going to the cooler, and a temp gauge labeled "trans temp" that I was planning on putting the sender in the pan, but if you say that is a poor place for it, what would you suggest?
I already have a temp gauge installed now. It has been there for a couple of years now. It reads the temp at the inlet of the cooler on the radiator.
Instead of the pan I recommend using the pressure port on the side of the transmission. That will get you a better average internal temperature.

Originally Posted by BRay09
That shows to be 11 in. Height x 13.8 in. Width x 3.5 in. That's not a very big cooler. I predict high transmission temperatures in your future. Send it back and get a 6.0L cooler. You'll be much happier.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 09:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Instead of the pan I recommend using the pressure port on the side of the transmission. That will get you a better average internal temperature.
Thank you for that. Is there an alternate port I can place the pressure sender at?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 10:14 PM
  #29  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
6.oh no coolers are overkill for the E4OD.if your doing something that requires an aux cooler that large,then your far surpassing the rating of your pre super duty truck.
the 4R100 guys in the SD sections love them because the 4R100 doesn't flow the high volume the E4OD does when it's converter locks.

if your just daily driving,or lightly working your pickup,you don't even need an aux cooler.the E4OD cools extremely well.especially the '95+ with the high volume pumps.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 05:28 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I hate to add snow to the rain I already threw on your parade, but in my opinion the pan is the WORST place you could put the temperature sensor. The pan is always the coolest spot in the transmission. That's the reading you're going to get, and if the bung is in a spot where there isn't much fluid movement you'll get a reading that doesn't hardly correspond to what's actually going on in the transmission.
So the factory temp sensor is in the worst possible spot? Or is it not since it's attached to the valve body instead of being actually IN the pan? I haven't actually studied the temperature sensor that closely or even had the pan off an E4OD since 2008 so maybe it's actually measuring the temperature of the valve body itself rather than the oil around it... I don't remember exactly where it was placed but it was close to the VB. Just wondering because I'm running a ScanGauge II to read my trans temp direct from the EEC instead of running a standalone gauge.

When I'm working the truck hard the trans oil temp will climb until it settles within 2 or 3 degrees of the water temp which I'm also reading from the EEC.
 
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