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I left my red line capped until I could exceed 35 PSI boost - then I hooked it back up to protect the intake valves. We wouldn't want those opening precipitously, now would we.
I have seen 20 PSI boost on a stock truck, red line capped, and an AIS with no other mods. Same truck, bumped the exhaust to 4" and I topped off at 22 PSI boost - at which point the truck would defuel. 22 PSI is max without a chip or a boost fooler - the type that regulates the pressure to the MAP line.
The adjustment for the wastegate is a turnbuckle on top. The hardest part of the whole job is to not lose the C-clip keeper. I parked a Mythbusters uber-magnet on top of the turbo while adjusting the wastegate, in case I dropped the keeper.
I see, than I plan to leave the red line capped until I reach 35 PSI. I also have the RiffRaff boost fooler and 4 inch exhaust. It does not appear possible to adjust the wastegate while on the truck, is it?
Yeah... those instructions were how I did it with the turbo in the truck. It would have been easier to do this while the turbo was out - just like the instructions said to do (which I read after the install and I had low boost).
Tie a piece of dental floss/fishing line around the C- clip and the other end to something that is not going anywhere like a bolt. This way when it does go flying around all you have to do is pull it back up from its hiding spot.
My un-chipped truck as well as dads, would only hit 14/15 psi boost. All new boots and no leaks. both of them. Untill I chipped my truck it would then go higher.
About 17 is the norm on a Superduty. Without saying you are mistaken, I have seen people swear on a stack of bibles that they have no leaks, then finally find one or more. It's always possible something else is at play, like a loss in turbo efficiency or wastegate control needs some attention.
True. And to add the gauge itself,barometric pressure, sea level , humidity. The moon is aligned. We have gauges at work that fail calibration. It is frustrating that we buy new gauges to only return them because they fail . being 15 psi in an un chipped truck . I would call it good and remember that is the norm for trouble shooting purposes and the reading on that particular gauge . Everyone said I should get 17. I chased after it for two freakin years. New plenums . Boots . Clamps. Gaskets. A couple of different gauges. The turbo on the garage table a couple times. I gave up. Even put in two different sets of blades . Over 2 psi. Ha. I figured what the hell, that is beer money I am spending and wouldn't notice the difference towing anyways. Grew tired of messing with it . Tossed in a dp tuner and it is a different now ! Hal la!
Just saying I hope the op is not spending the money I did tracking down 2 or 3 psi as I did to only loose out. For what reason I asked my self. More important to only know what it is and it stays there .
With the other low boost (13-14 PSI) thread that's active now, everything being done is testing - not spending. Now that we have some test results, there are indications that spending can make an improvement with boost. In this thread, we're talking a GTP38R giving low boost - which is a clear and obvious problem. While the GTP38 is a nice turbo, I always see a big efficiency loss (growing gap between EBP and MAP) when the boost numbers climb beyond stock boost. The 38R gives me very close to 1:1 all the way up the dial (I limit mine to 35 PSI), but I have "balanced" my entire air in/out system.
With the other low boost (13-14 PSI) thread that's active now, everything being done is testing - not spending. Now that we have some test results, there are indications that spending can make an improvement with boost. In this thread, we're talking a GTP38R giving low boost - which is a clear and obvious problem. While the GTP38 is a nice turbo, I always see a big efficiency loss (growing gap between EBP and MAP) when the boost numbers climb beyond stock boost. The 38R gives me very close to 1:1 all the way up the dial (I limit mine to 35 PSI), but I have "balanced" my entire air in/out system.
I spoke to Clay yesterday about this, and he said my numbers made sense to him (14PSI Max), because without running a tune, the GTP38R needs more fueling behind it to produce more boost. Before I jump on the tune wagon, and I have looked into DP Tuner, and really like what they have, and also looked into the Hydra tunes, what else should I test to make sure my engine is 100%?
spitballing here..but a compression test would direct my "sight-glass' on a buckzooka....more common would be...intake/exhaust leaks, sensors are "true"...etc
Yes, a compression test would preclude more money going into an engine.
As mentioned, my 38R is about 1:1, the MAP should closely parallel the EBP. A failed wastegate adjustment will kill the EBP (and subsequently the MAP/boost), and no amount of tuning will undo that. At the time I had my 38R faux pas, I had Stage II injectors with all the air mods and tuning - but couldn't build EBP or boost above 18 PSI. Total and utter fail. Tighten the wastegate arm and up comes 35 PSI boost with 36 PSI EBP.