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99 7.3 f250 sd lost oil and long cranking

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Old 05-26-2015, 04:13 PM
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99 7.3 f250 sd lost oil and long cranking

hello I hope everyone is doing good today. thank you for your time.
I've got a99 F2 50 super duty with a 2000 2001 motor.

I got the truck in the beginning of last winter so this is my first summer with it.
When I first got the truck some of the guys here on the forms help me Address injector issues with the truck. Since I fix the issues there has been little problems out of the truck however it's still suffered misfires when ColD but once up to operating temperature it was fine. Yesterday I had to go help a friend before leaving for the trip I checked the oil it was full and appeared normal the trip was about 150 miles. I came home park the truck after everything was done. This morning I came out started the truck everything acted as it should... truck fired right up everything was great went and dropped off my trailer at the yard come back got fuel when I come back out from paying for the fuel the truck took about 30 seconds to fire up I checked my gauges and torque pro and everything seemed normal. So on my way I went. I drove about 10 miles on the highway to the place I had to be when I got done doing my business I came back out to start my truck and it did the same thing this time however it took longer to start I managed to drive about a mile down the road when I noticed my old pressure gauge flickering and my Oil pressure light on I immediately shut it down and coasted into O'Reilly's parking lot I check the oil in the truck and it was empty according to the stick I added two whole gallon.... With it filled back up down the road I went.

So currently the truck is still suffering from a long hard starts it takes 30 to 45 seconds before it all actually fire up once it fires up everything appears to be fine however the truck is slowly smoking a bluish black color... It's never done this before however I've never had this truck in the middle of summer when it's real hot out I don't think this is normal. The truck doesn't appear to be down on any power actually it, acts as if it might've picked up of some power it is felt real peppy today compared to other days. Also I might note that about a week or two ago I started smelling diesel like either really rich diesel or raw diesel wasn't too bad but I just got whiffs of it for now and then. Now there is a burn oil smell present from the exhaust. Like I was saying earlier when I first got the truck I had to service the injector O-rings... I was told that the miss firing when cold was caused by the Poppitz sticking. The misfire hasn't been present since it got a little warm outside like I was saying it was only when the vehicle is cold.... Just thought I would mention the injector issue not sure if it's relative or not..... My thoughts are it's back to an injector issue or O-rings or possibly did I wipe the motor when it ran out of oil. I am not aware of where the oil went as there is been no leaks or drips does anyone have any clue on where to start or what needs to be done or what the issue might be anything? Thank you for your time in any advice is well appreciated. Sent with my ADD iPhone through voice command.
 
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:48 PM
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It also appears to be rolling a lil more smoke out of it then it did before.... Still feels peppyer - cleaner sounding - and the injectors/engine noises are not as load as they use to be... Still smoking blew when idling and you can smell oil!
 
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:19 PM
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I am not the one to help you with your problem but I can safely tell you that the motor will shut down before you wipe it out for lack of oil. Culprits could be injector O-rings and/or turbo seals and maybe some other stuff. Someone knowledgeable should be along to help you soon enough.
 
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:08 PM
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Thanks bud - I'm giving it a run through its paces new - this is wierd - it actually sounds cleaner and crisper - just long starts and smoking- although it may have stopped the smoking - we I'll see I guess
 
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:42 PM
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And now the smoking has just randomly stopped but the long start remains....... Seems like it cut down on on black smoke when accling as well ummm!
 
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:13 AM
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Smoking is back ! Also low on oil again! Added another gallon Again and still shows low!
 
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by f350hammer
Smoking is back ! Also low on oil again! Added another gallon Again and still shows low!
I'd say you likely have an injector o ring that is cut, maybe more than one. Just get all 8 sets and do them all. The long crank times are air in the system(from running it almost out of oil) and/or the cut o ring(s) bleeding off HPO.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:07 AM
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Update - pulled the fuel filter - there's oil in there- orings it is I'm guessing.ugh can some one tell me the tq specs for the injectors? Lots of lube - I know lol! Thanks guys!
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:23 AM
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Ooh... ooh! Pick me! Pick me! I know this one!

That's a bit of sarcasm to entertain the regulars here. The torque specs for the injectors are 120 INCH pounds. You mentioned injector issues before this started happening, and it sounds suspiciously like things went awry with torquing. I replaced Stinky's injectors, then all kinds of nasty things started taking place. It turns out I broke every ordinance in Powerstrokedom.
  • Ideally, you would have a wrench where the target torque is not close to the limits of the wrench. 10 foot pounds on the bottom scale of a bigger torque wrench is not really a reliable 120 inch pounds. That was my first mistake. The perfect wrench for injectors is a 240 inch/pound wrench, one that was stored with the torque set to zero. Is this starting to sound like I've been in a rodeo or two?
  • Cold torque is not the same as hot-torqueing the injectors. Warm the engine to full temp with the valve covers off. I must note - much warmer than the gauge's alleged warm - use an OBDII device to look at EOT or get an IR temperature gun (no need to pay more than about $40). 180 degrees is full temp, much like a pork roast... and you don't want that too cold either. You can now do the finishing torque on the injectors - you may get another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out of the bolts.
  • Speaking of OBDII gauges - if you have something like this, log your ICP and IPR before and after your injector work. I have learned you can see bad injector O-rings in the data, and verify the fix instantly.

Another point with all seriousness, and this is pretty much a warning: Since you have been tinkering with injectors and now you're losing oil in the fuel - set the wrench to 50 inch pounds and check the torque with that before progressing. If the bolt spins, that injector needs to be pulled and the O-ring kit needs to be replaced.

So now I bet your thinking "Just how many rodeos has this guy been in? Is that what made him write so oddly - too many rodeos?"

Yes.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Ooh... ooh! Pick me! Pick me! I know this one!

That's a bit of sarcasm to entertain the regulars here. The torque specs for the injectors are 120 INCH pounds. You mentioned injector issues before this started happening, and it sounds suspiciously like things went awry with torquing. I replaced Stinky's injectors, then all kinds of nasty things started taking place. It turns out I broke every ordinance in Powerstrokedom.
  • Ideally, you would have a wrench where the target torque is not close to the limits of the wrench. 10 foot pounds on the bottom scale of a bigger torque wrench is not really a reliable 120 inch pounds. That was my first mistake. The perfect wrench for injectors is a 240 inch/pound wrench, one that was stored with the torque set to zero. Is this starting to sound like I've been in a rodeo or two?
  • Cold torque is not the same as hot-torqueing the injectors. Warm the engine to full temp with the valve covers off. I must note - much warmer than the gauge's alleged warm - use an OBDII device to look at EOT or get an IR temperature gun (no need to pay more than about $40). 180 degrees is full temp, much like a pork roast... and you don't want that too cold either. You can now do the finishing torque on the injectors - you may get another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out of the bolts.
  • Speaking of OBDII gauges - if you have something like this, log your ICP and IPR before and after your injector work. I have learned you can see bad injector O-rings in the data, and verify the fix instantly.

Another point with all seriousness, and this is pretty much a warning: Since you have been tinkering with injectors and now you're losing oil in the fuel - set the wrench to 50 inch pounds and check the torque with that before progressing. If the bolt spins, that injector needs to be pulled and the O-ring kit needs to be replaced.

So now I bet your thinking "Just how many rodeos has this guy been in? Is that what made him write so oddly - too many rodeos?"

Yes.
I pulled the injectors- all the orings are good except the big purple and black ones in the middle - there all chewed up and moon shaped - this is the same thing it did last time! Wtf!
 
  #11  
Old 06-03-2015, 01:19 PM
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Update - got the injectors done!
Got it back together.
After some cranking she fired right up! Howeve after letting it idle for 10 mins and about 5 miles of driving- everything appears normal except the idle - it's kinda rougher then it use to be- not sure if this will clean up or not?
Don't appear to be losing oil anymore.
I checked the fuel bowl this morning and it had blAck fuel in it again ( I did drain it durning the injectors fix) anyway I drained it again and cycled the key and more black fuel came out - I'm guessing this is not gonna help the idle out to much - may just need a good long hard run ?
Anyone got any Advice?
 
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Old 06-03-2015, 03:05 PM
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You got it, take it out and run it. It's going to take 50-100 miles to get all the air worked out of the oil/fuel system.
 
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