Brake problems
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Brake problems
My brakes on my 82' are eatin my lunch! I have new drums and brakes on the rear, I just replaced both front rotors bearings and pads, now I just have rear brakes. They have been giving me fits for awhile. One time I hit them they seem good, I let off and reapply they go nearly to the floor and I only have rear brakes. I have slammed the peddle going in reverse as someone told me then drove forward steering back and forth for a few hundred feet to fix the proportioning valve if that is the problem. No good. They seem to go nearly to the floor mostly. I'm gonna try bleeding them all again, but it hasn't helped yet. It is driving me nuts, as I can't afford to take it to a shop. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and sorry for such a long post. 
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I don't think driving in reverse or forward does anything to the proportioning valve. Instead, Ford says to stand on the brake pedal, obviously when the truck is stopped, trying to center it.
Does your brake warning light come on?
Does your brake warning light come on?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 383
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Manual or power brakes? First thing I would do is bleed the brakes, possible air in the lines. More than likely if its power, your brake booster diaphragm is junk, or could be your master cylinder. You can test your diaphragm with vacuum, also if it is non-power check your firewall (or front of brake booster with power) if you see any bubbled paint your master cylinder is leaking.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
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From: Cadillac, Michigan
Bad brakes
Thanks for all the answers, I realize I forgot to mention afew thing. Within the past year or so I have replaced the hydrovac the master cylinder a couple brake lines etc. now that it is mentioned I do believe I seen a trail down the booster but very little, being a new master cylinder I looked else where. My over look. Is there a way to test the master cylinder? Also when putting on new front rotors, I found it hard part to press in the cylinder on the brake caliper I believe drivers side. I guess I just have to start one area at a time and try to figure it all out. I'll check all one thing at a time! Thank you all for the input. Very helpful as always from this site. Glad I joined. Ty.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Ty - Did you bench-bleed the master cylinder before installing it? That step, where you have tubing from the output ports of the MC back to the reservoir, is highly recommended. If not, you'll have air through the your system that will take time, and a lot of bleeding, to get out.
Not much way to test the MC. It pretty well has to move fluid given its design. But it shouldn't have any leaks, whatsoever.
On the caliper, I use a large c-clamp to compress the piston.
Not much way to test the MC. It pretty well has to move fluid given its design. But it shouldn't have any leaks, whatsoever.
On the caliper, I use a large c-clamp to compress the piston.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
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From: Cadillac, Michigan
Thank you Gary. Yes I bench bled the master cylinder when I put it on. I was gonna bleed the front since I put all new parts on. Well the bleeder is froze so I guess I have to check both sides if they are all froze I believe that's part of the problem. I'll have to buy new calipers! Just my luck. My son- in - law never told me they were froze after I got the truck from him. My bad! Should always check other people's work. I slammed the brake pedal 2-3 times and they seem better but still not right. I'll get the front bled and go from there. Ty for the help. I'll get back once I get it figured out. Again Ty.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 383
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
As Gary mentioned, don't forget about the master cylinder, if it is leaking, even the slightest, change it, if it was recent it should be under warranty and just a swap out, especially now since you have to do calipers and open up the system.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Also make sure you are using a brake wrench on the bleeders to see if you can get them to crack open, vs buying new calipers
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
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From: Cadillac, Michigan
Thanks InfantryCPT, I have tried to break loose both with no luck! I don't remember for sure when and where the master cylinder was changed. For now I'm gonna try and get new calipers first, then new master cylinder. I'll get it right even if it takes forever. 
. I'll get it slowly but surely. Thanks for the help to everyone.
. I'll get it slowly but surely. Thanks for the help to everyone.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
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From: Cadillac, Michigan
Well I managed to get the drivers side caliper broke loose to bled, had to order a new caliper for the passenger side, so hopefully when all done I'll be good to go. Thanks for all the help.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 383
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Please don't think I am trying to be disrespectful (on these forums you never truly know what a persons experience level is and when helping someone, I don't want to assume anything) , But you realize that once you open that system (add a new caliper) you will have to bleed the entire system again.
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
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Something else you did not mention. There is a plunger on the front side of the portioning valve that needs to be pulled forward and wedged behind it to keep it from going back in. This is done during the bleeding process so both the front and rear brakes can be bled equally. Someone else could chime in on this if I am incorrect. Hope this helps out. When you are done bleeding, simply pull the wedge and then STAND on the pedal to center the valve.
Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
My brakes on my 82' are eatin my lunch! I have new drums and brakes on the rear, I just replaced both front rotors bearings and pads, now I just have rear brakes. They have been giving me fits for awhile. One time I hit them they seem good, I let off and reapply they go nearly to the floor and I only have rear brakes. I have slammed the peddle going in reverse as someone told me then drove forward steering back and forth for a few hundred feet to fix the proportioning valve if that is the problem. No good. They seem to go nearly to the floor mostly. I'm gonna try bleeding them all again, but it hasn't helped yet. It is driving me nuts, as I can't afford to take it to a shop. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and sorry for such a long post.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Ok all done bleeding the brakes wish I'd have looked back here first. Rear brakes bleed as they should but the front would not go to the floor when I opened the bleeder, so if I understand right, I have to pull the plunger and keep it out when bleeding all the brakes. Correct? So I have to redo it. That must be why the front isn't bleeding correct? So I'll redo and give you my results. Thanks for all the input.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Pulling the plunger just helps the mechanism get centered and shouldn't affect bleeding the brakes to any large degree (but can affect if the red dash light stays on or not).
In your case, if you can't push the pedal and pump the fluid out, something else is horribly wrong somewhere....
In your case, if you can't push the pedal and pump the fluid out, something else is horribly wrong somewhere....