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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old May 18, 2015 | 08:53 AM
  #46  
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Ok I'm back at it! I'm starting at the master cylinder this AM. First things first. I had my cousin pump the brakes I loosened the lines on the master cylinder. The pedal went to the floor and fluid shot straight out ! Now I'm waiting on him to come back and I'm gonna bleed the whole system. Could I have not bench bled the master cylinder right back when it was changed? For some reason now I broke the front caliper and it went to the floor like it should. I don't have much pedal but I'll see how it goes once I rebleed the whole system. Let's hope that was my problem and my stupidly. I'll repost once I'm all done. Thanks each and all.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 08:56 AM
  #47  
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Yes, it is possible the MC had an air bubble in it. And, as the high point in the system, it never leaves unless you force it out.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 09:08 AM
  #48  
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As promised, no idea why the orientation came out like they did on the post but nonetheless they are there.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #49  
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Well I've had it! I went from the master cylinder right to the front drivers side caliper. The pedal is hard and will not bleed! I took both lines loose and fed them into the master cylinder and pumped the brake slowly to ensure the master is bled correctly. I rehooked the rear to the proportioning valve and I hooked the front to the drivers side caliper hose. Same. Problem! Cannot bleed the caliper and no brake. I tried to bypass the valve to see if it is bad! No different. Do I have a bad master cylinder? If I go right from the master to the wheel caliper shouldn't I be by passing the prop valve? And I should have a front brake. But NO. I guess I'm just a idiot and may have to take it to a machanic! It has me stumped.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 82fordowner
Well I've had it! I went from the master cylinder right to the front drivers side caliper. The pedal is hard and will not bleed! I took both lines loose and fed them into the master cylinder and pumped the brake slowly to ensure the master is bled correctly. I rehooked the rear to the proportioning valve and I hooked the front to the drivers side caliper hose. Same. Problem! Cannot bleed the caliper and no brake. I tried to bypass the valve to see if it is bad! No different. Do I have a bad master cylinder? If I go right from the master to the wheel caliper shouldn't I be by passing the prop valve? And I should have a front brake. But NO. I guess I'm just a idiot and may have to take it to a machanic! It has me stumped.







So to confirm, you removed the hose at the rear of the master cylinder (at the master cylinder) and bled this never letting the fluid go dry. then reattached hose at the master cylinder, then removed the hose at the prop valve inlet (green circle) and bled that portion of the line, then install the line back to the prop valve inlet (green circle) and cracked and bled through the prop valve each (red circle) oulets individually, then removed the individual lines at each caliper and bled them individually, then hooked them back to the calipers and bled each one individually? Every union must be bled. otherwise you'll skip something


I know you bypassed the prop and went to the troubled caliper. The above was the recommended was to diagnose your problem area, however the bypass should have actuated, the caliper (as long as it was properly bled and absolutely zero air in the line, if there is air in the line you are simply compressing air) with all this, it leads me to believe that your master cylinder is not functioning correctly. Don't give up, I have been there many a time, but my determination and perseverance always got the better of me. However....before I bought the master cylinder I would do the paragraph above, if it doesn't work then you know you done all you can do with the current cylinder, it may have a weak seal. Install and repeat.
,
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 12:16 PM
  #51  
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So I have no idea what vehicle this pic is from, but it is close enough for this purpose (the green arrow shows the flow this one had the rear line to rear brakes, but I fixed that), every red circle is where you have to remove and bleed to, starting at the master cylinder, work you way down the line to the caliper with the caliper being the last thing bled.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #52  
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Ok so here's where I'm at! I'm gonna start all over, I'm gonna remove the master cylinder and bench bleed as it should be done. Then I'll go to each fitting on the prop. Valve and bleed. Then I'll go to the pass. Rear and bleed then to the drivers side rear and bleed then to the pass front and bleed then to drivers side and bleed. All with the plunger on the front of the prop valve pulled out. Then if still not working I'll start with a new master cylinder. Rebleed all then see what happens. If still not right I'll get a new prop valve and go from there. Then if still not right I'm really not sure what to do next as all is new on the front rotors! Once I go thru all this I'll repost my progress. Hopefully I'll get it. I have never giving up on a thing to do with working on my cars and truck, so I'm not gonna let this beat me! I hope. Lol.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 01:46 PM
  #53  
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Good luck. You'll get it, and soon.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 02:46 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 82fordowner
Ok so here's where I'm at! I'm gonna start all over, I'm gonna remove the master cylinder and bench bleed as it should be done. Then I'll go to each fitting on the prop. Valve and bleed. Then I'll go to the pass. Rear and bleed then to the drivers side rear and bleed then to the pass front and bleed then to drivers side and bleed. All with the plunger on the front of the prop valve pulled out. Then if still not working I'll start with a new master cylinder. Rebleed all then see what happens. If still not right I'll get a new prop valve and go from there. Then if still not right I'm really not sure what to do next as all is new on the front rotors! Once I go thru all this I'll repost my progress. Hopefully I'll get it. I have never giving up on a thing to do with working on my cars and truck, so I'm not gonna let this beat me! I hope. Lol.

Don't forget that once everything is assembled, bleed again (so last thing is bleeding from the calipers). if at anytime you discover fluid or leakage from the master cylinder even the appearance of fluid, do not install it.


And personally, I don't ever like to throw money at parts, however a new master cylinder is around $23 bucks, and is integral to proper function, I would hate for you to do all that work/time only to figure out at the end of it that it was the master cylinder. Question you have to ask yourself is your time worth $23, if not start fresh with a new cylinder, bleed through as noted and if it isn't that, we will go from there.
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 07:51 AM
  #55  
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Well I think I got it figured out! I'll find out later today for sure. I unhooked the lines at the master cylinder and switched the ends so I could see if I hooked the front to the rear of the cylinder if I then had front brakes I'd say the master cylinder is bad. I switched and "wallah" I got front brakes and no rear brakes. It's imbaressing, but I think it is the problem. I had to order a new not rebuilt master cylinder. So later I'll post the results! If that cures the problem, I am so stupid! Just because it was a new cylinder awhile back don't mean it's good! I'll let you all know later. Thanks for all the help and patients.
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 82fordowner
Well I think I got it figured out! I'll find out later today for sure. I unhooked the lines at the master cylinder and switched the ends so I could see if I hooked the front to the rear of the cylinder if I then had front brakes I'd say the master cylinder is bad. I switched and "wallah" I got front brakes and no rear brakes. It's imbaressing, but I think it is the problem. I had to order a new not rebuilt master cylinder. So later I'll post the results! If that cures the problem, I am so stupid! Just because it was a new cylinder awhile back don't mean it's good! I'll let you all know later. Thanks for all the help and patients.

Great to hear, and no you're not stupid, we just expect to get more out of our money for the parts we buy these days. Unfortunately a majority of them aren't made like they used to be. Keep us informed.
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 08:58 AM
  #57  
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I agree - you aren't stupid. Been there, done that. And, congrat's on finding it.
 
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Old May 22, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #58  
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ok so here I am,i believe I got it fixed, I put on the new master cylinder after bench bleeding(they don't give you a bleed kit anymore) so I made my own and it worked great. I still have to get a couple new lines but I know it is right now, after being stupid not thinking the master was bad! My Bad! Real Bad. lol So thanks for all the support I got, it is really appricated. Hope everyone enjoys the long weekend! For those that still work. Fred
 
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Old May 22, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 82fordowner
ok so here I am,i believe I got it fixed, I put on the new master cylinder after bench bleeding(they don't give you a bleed kit anymore) so I made my own and it worked great. I still have to get a couple new lines but I know it is right now, after being stupid not thinking the master was bad! My Bad! Real Bad. lol So thanks for all the support I got, it is really appricated. Hope everyone enjoys the long weekend! For those that still work. Fred
Your welcome, just glad you got it figured out and that you posted the followups, thing I hate most is that some folks come on here, post a problem we work through it and never hear from them again. This way the next guy/gal will search this and see what was wrong and have resolution to their problem. Congrats and have a Happy Memorial Day, remember the Fallen
 
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Old May 22, 2015 | 08:12 PM
  #60  
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Glad you got it fixed. And, even those of us who are retired are enjoying the holiday. In my case with my grandkids.
 
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