Brake problems
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Ok everyone here is where I'm at! My rear brakes are catching when brake is applied! Drivers side caliper seems to have some pressure when brake is applied and the passenger side can be turned when brake applied. So I have no front brakes period! I want to by pass the front on the valve. But here I can't find the right three way block. Gonna have to try online. I have my Daughter looking in Grand Rapids. Mi. For a proportioning vale there as they have more auto yards than I do here. If and when I get it figured out I'll repost so if anyone else has this problem they won't have to go thru this. So thanks everyone for all the help. Fred
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
I guess I'm confused. I thought you said you have brake fluid at both fron calipers if you crack the bleeder valves open. Am I wrong on that?
If I'm right, isn't there a chance that the pistons are rusted in place such that the brakes won't come on?
If I'm right, isn't there a chance that the pistons are rusted in place such that the brakes won't come on?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Gary that is correct, I have fluid from the calipers but they are both new. Could be bad I guess but I'm thinking not. So I got fluid but no pressure. I can't figure it out. If I got fluid but no pressure to operate the caliper then what is the problem? It has me confused. I've never had this problem bleeding any brakes I've done. Maybe master cylinder? Not sure. It is also new.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
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From: Cadillac, Michigan
My one concern is when I bleed the rear brakes, the pedal goes to the floor when bled, when I bleed the front the pedal goes so far then stops! When bleeding I've always had the brakes go to the floor. Front and rear. That has me stumped. Why isn't the pedal going to the floor?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Lets check the plumbing, bleed the one problem line, crack it at the prop valve see how good your pressure is there, then connect back to prop valve and disconnect at the caliper and check pressure again, then connect to caliper and check pressure with bleeder open. It only takes one small piece of dirt to get in a line to screw it up.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
I missed the new caliper part. Sorry.
And, I like the divide and conquer approach. Check it out to see where the flow stops.
Also, here's a link to a thread where there's a cross-section of the proportioning valve shown, as well as a discussion thereof: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lve-issue.html
And, I like the divide and conquer approach. Check it out to see where the flow stops.
Also, here's a link to a thread where there's a cross-section of the proportioning valve shown, as well as a discussion thereof: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lve-issue.html
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Ok the problem I guess I'm having is,I bleed the rear brakes the pedal goes to the floor as it should, when I try and bleed the front calipers, the pedal is hard and will not go to the floor as I believe it should. Will the prop. Valve stop the pedal from going to the floor as it should if the valve is stuck one way or the other? It is driving me nuts may end up taking it to a garage when I have the cash.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yes, the valve could do that if it isn't centered. It is a misnomer to call it a proportioning valve. It basically shuts off the flow to one set of brakes or the other if there is an imbalance. And, it lights the warning light.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 383
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Ok the problem I guess I'm having is,I bleed the rear brakes the pedal goes to the floor as it should, when I try and bleed the front calipers, the pedal is hard and will not go to the floor as I believe it should. Will the prop. Valve stop the pedal from going to the floor as it should if the valve is stuck one way or the other? It is driving me nuts may end up taking it to a garage when I have the cash.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Ok so here it is! I'm taking a break for a bit, I have been working the past week putting on all news brake parts to have good brakes. No luck as of yet. Very discouraging at this point. I have got so much going thru my head I have to take a break. As soon as I get back at it I'll repost! Luckily I'm not pressed to have to drive everyday. All I know is I got to get it right. And I will. 
thank you all so much. I'll be back! Lol
thank you all so much. I'll be back! Lol
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Ok Infantry CPT I did get the valve off and I got the end pin to pull in and out, I blew air thru the whole system, I got the fitting with the rubber tip thru it loose but the other fitting I can't get loose I'm asomeing it is the one with the sliding rod or whatever is there. I put it back together and still no front brakes. Is it possible I have bad rubber lines on the front without knowing it. By that could I be getting fluid thru but when I apply the brake with everything tight could they be collapsing not allowing pressure to the brakes. Just another thought. Which I have many at this point. Gonna start again tomarrow if it don't rain. Thanks. Fred
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 383
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
I would suggest break and checking pressure at the Red Circle inlet, then tighten the connection at the red circle, the individually opening up and checking both the green circle outlets for pressure. then closing both of them at the green circles and individually bleeding the calipers. Remember this is just like a plumbing job (a few more quirks) but ultimately we are trying to break open the system at every available junction we can to pinpoint where the stoppage is occurring.
MY 1983 FORD Shop Manual says you MUST PULL out the bleeder rod during the bleeding process.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Cadillac, Michigan
Ok when I loosened the rod, it acts like it's not going back in and staying in? I'm not sure but I'm gonna give it a shot tomarrow as you suggest. Thank you for all your and everyone's patient with me.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 383
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
You bet, no reason to answer tonight but when you say rod are you talking about the bleeder rod or the pressure differential valve (per the pic), tomorrow i have some better pics of the prop valve straight from the shop manual, they actually show the bleeder clip that keeps the the bleeder rod open during bleeding. Guess I better hit the rack as well.