302 Engine Identification
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Southern Arizona
302 Engine Identification
Hello Everyone,
I have read everything I can find about identifying my ford engine and anly get more confused. If anyone can help it will be greatly appreciated.
The numbers I have found are:
Above the starter, top line D2C, below that EOVE
Front drivers side of block, top line 3, below that 80
I compare these numbers to the information available on the web and the context is not the same.
I think the engine was made in 1972, confirmation and additional information will be greatly appreciated.
The engine has been installed in a 1972 F100 that came with a 302, I think, and 3 speed manual. Previous owner installed a C4 AOD.
I have read everything I can find about identifying my ford engine and anly get more confused. If anyone can help it will be greatly appreciated.
The numbers I have found are:
Above the starter, top line D2C, below that EOVE
Front drivers side of block, top line 3, below that 80
I compare these numbers to the information available on the web and the context is not the same.
I think the engine was made in 1972, confirmation and additional information will be greatly appreciated.
The engine has been installed in a 1972 F100 that came with a 302, I think, and 3 speed manual. Previous owner installed a C4 AOD.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
D2 is a 72 casting. So since your truck is a 72, then there's a good chance it's the original engine in the truck. The other characters don't make any sense to me, possibly you've misread them. If it's got 6 valve cover bolts, it's a 302. If there's 5 bolts in the valve covers and the covers overlap the intake, it's either a 360 or a 390. The only other engine offered in 72 was a six cylinder.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Southern Arizona
Thanks for the response, you are correct that I misread them. Using a mirror and the reverse images will be my excuse. I am trying to insert a picture that will hopefully help. I also found some additional numbers that maybe will help. EOAE , D3 either O or C, 3J12.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Well bad news: That's an early 80's POS thin block you've got there. It weighs 16 pounds less than the 72 motor the truck came with. All that iron came from the decks and the bottoms of the bore castings. The 3J12 translates to Sept 12th, 1983. The "E0" in the casting number and the location of the date code, tells me this is not a 70's block. If it were a 70's casting the date code and the casting numbers would be above the starter, next to the oil pan rail. . Don't even think about hot rodding this block. Nor the crank either. The cranks of that vintage are crap too. Seen two broke in two in normal service.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Southern Arizona
Thanks for the info Baddad457, the lighter engine should not be that detrimental to me, since I am trying to build for mileage in lieu of horsepower.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Just don't boost the compression ratio, come think of it, that's going to be tough as mileage cams generally boos the dynamic ratio, you may have problems with head gaskets down the road. That's a result of the thin decks. You'd do better getting a 94-97 5.0 out of a pickup or van, or an Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 if you're looking for mileage. These had the best cam for that and the best heads. Then they're all roller cammed to top it off. And all can be had for little to nothing. With most, you can get em back in shape by just replacing the rod and main bearings and the oil pump, then new gaskets to button em back up again. The bores don't wear in them with their tighter piston fit and the low tension ring package they have.
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