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Hey guys. Picked up this gem today. I'm new to the 66 ford world. But I'd like to point out that none of my dash gauges work and neither do my brake lights. It looks to me like the wires are cut. There's two wires coming of the firewall. Both are red. No wires coming out of the master cylinder so I think those are it.
Well, to start with, the dash- and I'm assuming it's a custom cab with the horizontal sweep speedometer- has only one blinker for both sides. Regarding your nonworking speedometer and instruments, my guess is that if you remove the instrument panel from the dash you will find that the speedometer cable is disconnected and the wire leading to the instrument voltage regulator (located on the top middle of the panel) is also disconnected. This can be rectified by simply screwing the cable back into the panel and reconnecting the blade type connector into the regulator. CAUTION- IF THIS TRUCK IS EQUIPPED WITH AN AMMETER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!
I'm thinking that this truck has been stripped of several valuable parts such as the side mouldings and possibly something was removed from the instrument panel which was then re installed- whoever did it neglected to reconnect the cable and wire.
And yep, those two red wires likely have been cut loose from the master cylinder for some reason. Track 'em and know for sure...
rx
If some previous possessor of your truck has been cutting electrical wiring, that can never be a good thing. Electrical wiring diagram manuals are sold by many of our truck part vendors for about $7 - you should get one. From the one engine bay shot you provided, there are no wires attached to your brake light switch which is mounted to the front of the master cylinder. One of them should be red and goes to the turn signal flasher. The other is red with a black trace and goes to your turn signal switch. Perhaps these are some of the wires you are referring to. All of your Standard Cab instruments will have wiring that passes through the Instrument Voltage Regulator mounted to the back side of the instrument panel. If all of your (non-mechanical) instruments have failed in the same way, the IVR, or perhaps a bad ground could be the cause. Poor or non-existent grounds account for a huge number of electrical gremlins. Speedometer issues could be the speedo itself, a bad or dry speedo cable, or bad gears at the end of the cable where it screws into the transmission or within the tail shaft. Hope this helps.
Not trying to pick your truck apart it looks like a pretty solid truck to me. I did notice the Ford script on the upper grille is missing. I blew up the picture of the drivers door with a look at kind of the drivers dash board and it looks like a sweep speedo set of gages to me. If someone switched or tried to switch from the round to the sweep they may have encountered problems and just slapped it together to get it in. Who knows? I like the close off valve in the heater hose for summertime use. If it has this I would also say probably not an original CC truck. Using a household outdoor or indoor plumbing valve works never seen that before... Most of the CC trucks I have seen have the regulator mounted on the inner fender and actuated by a cable on the dash from inside the cab. Have fun with it and make it yours. Not sure where that hose is going that is coming off of the PCV valve. It should go to or usually goes to the base of the carb and is attached to a spacer between the carb and the intake manifold.
Edit just noticed that the hood if original to the truck has the gear and lightning bolt. If it was original V8 truck the hood badge would be the V8 hood badge. Either the badge of the motor has been changed.
1965/66's have F O R D letters on the upper grille panel, not a script.
My 1965 F100 Standard Cab came with the optional deluxe fresh air heater, so it wasn't exclusive to Custom Cab or Rangers. The Economy heater was also an option.
Deluxe fresh air heater has two *****/cables mounted to a bracket under the dash to the right of the column.
One of these cables opens/closes a door that allows fresh air to flow into the heater plenum chamber.
The other cable attaches to the heater water valve that is spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose.
Economy fresh air heater has a manually operated heater water shut-off valve in the same location. 'Plumbing fixture' has replaced it, or the cable operated valve, depending on which heater it has.
I dunno what that 'thing' is in the right (passenger) side valve cover, but it's not a PCV .. which is 6A666 in lower pic.