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How do I remove the bezel and cable from the dash for the throttle, choke and the switch for the wipers?
I was able to remove the ignition switch by pushing from behind and turning bezel cc 1/4. The headlight switch there is a button to push and then turn and pull rod out then unscrew the bezel. I used a pair of spring ring pliers. Starter is switch removed. Dash is removed. I marked all wires. Took pictures and drew a diagram for replacing. I replaced most of the wires after I bought the truck and was able to get it running. Now that instrument panel is out I want to replace the rest of the wiring.
Good news, all gauges work on the panel. I replaced the wires for the instrument panel lights. One bulb works one is burned out. Ordering some 6 volt led white and blue. Turn signal sockets are missing. Ordered some new ones. Using my 6volt battery charger with red lead grounding the instrument panel and black lead to one side of fuel gauge, oil gauge, and temp gauge(one at a time), THEY ALL MOVE!. Took the glass out, cleaned it and the gauge faces. Looks pretty good
The wiper **** just pulls off, then unscrew the bezel. The throttle and choke cables should have nuts on the backside of the dash, and the Bowden cable threads through them.
Here is a tip for your instrument panel. Take the bezel off, sand the rust off and paint it silver argent. If the rubber gasket between the glass and bezel is dried up, MidFifty sells them. Get a small brush and reddish/orange paint and paint your needles on your gauges. Do it in one sweep of the brush. Put a piece of paper under the needle before you paint to catch stray paint.
I used a little Armour all on a soft rag to make the black paint of the face brighter and shinier. Careful around the white numbers, you can rub them off.
The wiper **** just pulls off, then unscrew the bezel. The throttle and choke cables should have nuts on the backside of the dash, and the Bowden cable threads through them.
on the 53-56 wiper **** has a very small blade screw driver set screw
Turn signal sockets are missing. Ordered some new ones. Using my 6volt battery charger with red lead grounding the instrument panel and black lead to one side of fuel gauge, oil gauge, and temp gauge(one at a time), THEY ALL MOVE!. Took the glass out, cleaned it and the gauge faces. Looks pretty good
The turn signal sockets are not there because your truck did not come with the factory self cancelling turn signals, I am assuming.
I see turn signal sockets on the gauge cluster..??
Those are the cluster lights. The turn indicators on the slant cabs are at the bottom. You can see the glue residue from the black cloth tape they put over the openings when they don’t have the factory turn indicators.
Yes, there are green arrows on the instrument cluster. Two holes are in the back of the cluster. I installed a new 6 volt turn sign switch on the steering column. I am guessing I can run a jumper from the red wire from the signal to the right turn indicator and a jumper from the green wire from the signal switch to the left turn indicator.
The signal switch has a light that blinks when turn lever is activated or hazard lights are on. Just thinking since I have it all apart, it would be nice to get the sockets put in for turn indicators.
Having restored tin reel strips on slot machines for many years, I can tell you that the only way to clean gauge faces without disturbing or defacing silk screened lettering is to use Meguiars #6 cleaner wax, Works perfectly, no residue, and they look like new!
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
