hey guys, I've read the wiring diagrams for these things over and over again and I'm having problems locating a few issues. My first issue is that I have the custom cab speedometer and gauges and such in what I believe to be a standard cab (previous owner was dreaming). My blinker lights blink but my speedometer, temp gauge and fuel gauge don't work. Now the back of this gauge panel is a nightmare and I'm getting quite frustrated. I'm hoping you all could help me troubleshoot. Ask me what you need pictures of and will gladly send them. And also, can someone send me a picture of their master cylinder? (Don't ask) haha I'll take some shots of the wiring and post me up here.

 

Try to send a detailed, well lit pic of the mess behind your instrument panel. Just because it may look like a dirty rats nest doesn't necessarily mean that it's not Ford original LOL!
Also, just for kicks, post a pic of the plate on the door edge- that's the one with all the numbers and such. I'm sure ND will be pleased to decipher it.

My suspicion is that we'll discover that this truck was originally a six cylinder Custom Cab with overdrive- possibly with replacement doors since there doesn't seem to be any evidence of holes to attach the "Custom Cab' script. Are the small holes drilled along the sides square or round?
Your underhood wiring has obviously been monkeyed with (to say the least!) and you're likely gonna have to trace everything.

I'll head out to the garage and take some underhood pis for you in a little while.
rx

 

Master cylinder. Ignore the wirenuts- the previous owner had trailer brake lights connected here.


Underhood overview. I don't know what the red coiled up wire (center right) ever went to. I may discover when I diagnose why the horns don't work- I'm anxious to fix this problem as after 20 years of owning this vehicle I am growing weary of rolling down the window to cuss at other motorists and would rather honk at 'em! Nope, this ain't the stock engine- it's out of a '68 something or other. It's just a temporary installation while I rebuild whatever in heck FE was in it.


Your instrument panel?


Behind the panel. Note the ground wire connected to the top of instrument voltage regulator (center left). If this is connected and instruments still don't work you could have a ruined regulator- PD can probably tell you where to get a replacement; they're not cheap.


Starter solenoid and related wiring.
rx

 

Suggest check voltage across 'Constant Voltage Regulator', it's a small metal regulator attached to the back of the instrument panel, possibly faulty, or not grounded properly. Basically an electrical 'shock absorber' regulating voltage across instruments from between 0-10 volts. On my 65 CC I purchased a ground strap and ran it from the metal part of the instrument cluster to a clean surface on the brake pedal assembly. Also, check the connections on the gauges are clean and secure. Anyhow, food for thought??

 

Plate on the door





The mess of inline fuses next to my battery.





Working our way through this wiring mess back towards the firewall





The two brake light wires clipped off right by the master cylinder.





Another view along the top of the firewall

 

The speedometer cable wasn't connected

 

Sorry, responded before U posted pic's. Must admit, that is probably the most interesting wiring configurations I have ever seen. I do not see where the CVR is even attached to the gauges, not clear how they are being regulated, perhaps somewhere in the circuit. In addition, the water 'on/off' valve is an interesting touch!!

May want to consider purchasing a couple of the most important reproduction harnesses; although, there is a complete kit that includes the dash harness, which is relatively new. I purchased a couple of separate reproduction harnesses, same color codes and connectors, matter of unplugging the old and plug in the new. The harnesses were made by American Autowire and I was pleased with the quality. If decide to go this route, can post pic's of couple of their harnesses.

 

That would be great if you could post a pic of behind the dash. Does the kit come with the engine compartment wiring as well so I can replace the jumbled mess of inline fuses and such?

 

I don't need to run the wiring to the rear of the truck because the blinkers work and once I get the brake wires spliced and hooked up that they should work fine. I just need the wiring for the cab and forward.

 

Ohhh myyyy. After seeing those pics I have to mention that you might want to consider a complete new wiring harness. Sure, it's a few hundred bucks, but still, for the aggravation you'll save yourself...
I posted some pics, see above in post #3.
rx

 

Suggest assess which harnesses should be replaced, the dash harness can be repaired but can be time consuming, I used plastic ties to separate the 'wire trunks' while I made repairs. As mentioned, ideally replacing with kit would be best, there are a number of different manufacturers, my only experience was with American Autowire and I was pleased with the quality. Posting a link to Carolina Classics catalog for comparison, not sure they sell harnesses separately, suggest contact and inquire. Hopefully this thread will get some traction with additional member comments, recommendations, and/or recommendations.

http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com...re-510260.html

 

I love the water shut off valve. Besides that, can you explain why there are so many inline fuses running from the battery. Is your fuse panel missing? If so then I suggest a complete rewire. If not then you might have it all in place to rewire. If it is just for other accessories I suggest running them from the back of the ignition, that way if you leave them on accidentally you wont drain the battery. It will also be helpful if you do have a drain because it shuts them off when your truck is not on.

The one thing I saw missing was the Speedo cable. It should be coming through the fire wall and through the U shaped opening. If it is just tucked back then inspect it for service.

The ICVR is not hooked up to anything (fuse on the the back of panel), this is needed to regulate the power for the Gas and Temp gauges. There is a single hot wire going to it with a Y shaped wire coming off the ICVR going to both gauges, those gauges have two posts, one from the ICVR and the other to its corresponding connection.

The panel lights are grounded to the panel, make sure there is a good connection. If not it wont work.

The rest of the wires is just taking it slow, unwinding the rats nest and making sure nothing is improperly grounded while testing. Start farthest away from wire bundle and work your way back. I just did mine, did not have funds to purchase new harness, not all the wires are properly color coded but I did tag each for its function. I suggest the little bread sack clips.

 

C2OZ-13A821-A .. Horn Brush & Insulator Kit / Obsolete ~ Available NOS

Carpenter has this same part number in his repro parts catalogs, but it doesn't come with the insulator, which y'all may or not need.

Once the horn ring (or button) is removed, you will see a hole on the outside of the steering wheels where these parts fit into.

The brush contains a thin copper wire that is notorious for snapping.

When the wheel is removed, the brush (and sometimes the insulator) will fall out, usually unnoticed. Then when the wheel is reinstalled, peeps wonder why the horn no longer blows.