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If it fits your needs it's perfect.
I had a 94 IDI and loved it. Not the fasted beast but never ever failed me.
Looks like trailer has AC, bed and bathroom. What else do you need?g
Enjoy
It has a slide out too. It does what we need. I have done some modifications to the truck, not a 500 horse powerstroke, but it does just fine. And I can work on it!
It has a slide out too. It does what we need. I have done some modifications to the truck, not a 500 horse powerstroke, but it does just fine. And I can work on it!
I had a much straighter downpipe made and removed the mufflers to allow it to breath. It did everything I needed as well and the prepper in me liked the fact it was mechanically controlled. No concern of fried electronics.
As I moved up in towing needs I moved up to the Powerstroke. The good news is my oldest son is a Ford Tech so I don't wrench on it anymore.
I'll always have a soft spot for my IDI for it's abilities and simplicity.
I had a much straighter downpipe made and removed the mufflers to allow it to breath. It did everything I needed as well and the prepper in me liked the fact it was mechanically controlled. No concern of fried electronics.
As I moved up in towing needs I moved up to the Powerstroke. The good news is my oldest son is a Ford Tech so I don't wrench on it anymore.
I'll always have a soft spot for my IDI for it's abilities and simplicity.
That was my reason for getting one. I have nothing against a powerstroke, other than the electronics. I have a 3" downpipe, 4" straight exhaust, bigger injection pump, adjusted the governor and wastegate. It's got about 200hp at the rear wheels. Next project is an intercooler. I have the intercooler itself, just need to make my piping.
Is there a fabrication shop near you? Take them the picture of what you are looking at and see how much to fab up new side rails with the bolt height in the correct place for you're application. The side rails only look like 3/16's thick steel at most. A couple of bends and holes. Shouldn't be much at all.
Decided to give it a go loosely following the Reese Goosebox design minus all the moving parts.
Ended up making a bushing to press over the fifth wheel pin.
Pressed on and welded.
The gooseneck tube was pressed on the bushing, welded around to the bushing and existing pinbox and then added some gussets.
Now need to clean up, paint and add chains. I will be Drilling another hole and adding 1 more bolt per side.
The old adapter that came with the camper was 12" from the fifth wheel plate to the top of the gooseneck ball. The new piece I made is 5-1/2" from the fifth wheel plate to the top of the gooseneck ball. Yes I still have a lever arm but it is less than half the length it was. Also it will be bolted to the camper in the middle set of holes so if you were to compare to the stock pinbox the ball is only 3-1/2" lower than the lowest stock pin location.
I poked around under the skin of the camper and all the framework looks good.
For future plans I am thinking about adding onto the entire front framework under the bedroom of the fifthwheel making the frame stronger and adding additional storage accessed from the outside. Not sure how tall I will be able to do, will need to verify clearances to the flatbed. As long as the compartment doors will be 6" tall it will be useable.
Looks great. That should work nicely. And the tube being so short really decreases the leverage so it should hold up fine.
The area you want to watch for stress cracks is the main beam that runs side to side in the front of the pinbox mount plates. That's where mine sheared (see pic). It was only visible after removing the skin even with using a bore scope camera.
For the repair I straightened it back out and welded it. Then I backed all the surrounding frame work with 2x6x 3/16" rectangular tubing. No flex now.
Looks great. That should work nicely. And the tube being so short really decreases the leverage so it should hold up fine.
The area you want to watch for stress cracks is the main beam that runs side to side in the front of the pinbox mount plates. That's where mine sheared (see pic). It was only visible after removing the skin even with using a bore scope camera.
For the repair I straightened it back out and welded it. Then I backed all the surrounding frame work with 2x6x 3/16" rectangular tubing. No flex now.
Thanks and thanks. I will take another look in that location. The skin is loose at the moment but not completely off. I almost ordered some 8" channel to replace the pinbox entirely and run it back and tie it in by the jacks. If I do that in the future I would use an adjustable square coupler with the crank so I can set the height perfect.
When I ordered this coupler I almost ordered 2 so I had one for the equipment trailer. They oopsed and sent me two anyway so now I can just put that one in and it will be level also.
Our fiver with our previous truck. First pick on our way to clear lake state park in Atlanta, Michigan, 2nd at clear lake(water is crystal clear to about 20ft, and last at Walden woods Rv park Halloween.
Stopped at Arrowhead Mall in Phoenix to get my wife's iPhone screen repaired. Took those folks 3.5 hours to replace the screen. Guy at a kiosk in the mall I walked by on our way out said it takes him 25 minutes. That made for a very long travel day!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
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