Lash by ear?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
Lash by ear?
I have a new knock after adjusting the valves and I'm trying to find out what that means. Here's the back story:
I installed a new damper and after I got everything back together, there's was a bunch of valve noise so I adjusted them. I can't use the recommended lash settings that the manual suggests because they will then be too loose. I took a small length of tube and, with the engine warmed up (drove for about 20 minutes) I took off the cover, put some cardboard over the engine, started it up and listened/adjusted my way down the line. I now have an "on again, off again" ping that has me concerned. It's not super loud but loud enough for me to hear.
Another thing worth mentioning is that the timing marks don't line up (never did) so I have to time it by ear. I haven't attempted to adjust that since installing the new damper so that might have something to do with it.
Just checking in with the pro's. Would you do anything different? Any suggestions? Thanks!
'64 F100 with a 223 strait 6
I installed a new damper and after I got everything back together, there's was a bunch of valve noise so I adjusted them. I can't use the recommended lash settings that the manual suggests because they will then be too loose. I took a small length of tube and, with the engine warmed up (drove for about 20 minutes) I took off the cover, put some cardboard over the engine, started it up and listened/adjusted my way down the line. I now have an "on again, off again" ping that has me concerned. It's not super loud but loud enough for me to hear.
Another thing worth mentioning is that the timing marks don't line up (never did) so I have to time it by ear. I haven't attempted to adjust that since installing the new damper so that might have something to do with it.
Just checking in with the pro's. Would you do anything different? Any suggestions? Thanks!
'64 F100 with a 223 strait 6
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 11
From: Townsend, MT
My first suggestion is to set the valves by the book. You need a little lash and you will always be able to hear a little valve noise. This is how it should be.
When you say timing marks, do you mean the ones on the cam gears or the harmonic balancer to the pointer?
When you say timing marks, do you mean the ones on the cam gears or the harmonic balancer to the pointer?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
Timing: The harmonic balancer to the pointer. I think the distributer might be off a tooth or something because, to get the engine purring when timing by ear, I have to twist it as far counter clockwise as space allows. I tried to pull it out and skip back a notch but couldn't find it.
Valves: I just got done setting it to the manual specs and yes, it is a little noisy but it doesn't sound terribly wrong, probably just is the way it's supposed to. I did it with the engine warm at .019.
Valves: I just got done setting it to the manual specs and yes, it is a little noisy but it doesn't sound terribly wrong, probably just is the way it's supposed to. I did it with the engine warm at .019.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 603
Likes: 3
From: San Antonio
The Y blocks sound like a sewing machine when they are adjusted correctly. I adjust my 292 to 0 lash (pushrod will not turn with oily fingers) then back off a 1/4 which is about .019. There are several old posts on adjusting valves without step feeler gauges.
Some lash is needed to let the oil get to the sliding surfaces.
Some lash is needed to let the oil get to the sliding surfaces.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I don't know particularly about the sixes but, the Y block V8 has solid lifters and wear or dishing on the rocker arm face makes lash adjustment a problem because a flat feeler gauge will not accurately measure the actual gap. Probably what's going on here as well? There should be some lifter noise when they are adjusted but not very much.
You can have the #1 cylinder wherever you want, wires out of sync and cap installed 180 out and it will run okay, but it sure is confusing to work on or troubleshoot. Get everything setup according to Hoyle and it's easy to see what's what, timing wise. Otherwise there's no way to tell. A vacuum gauge is a great way to set timing but still need a light to verify number of degrees advance over the RPM range. If the damper is buggered and the dizzy installed off a tooth, wires out of sequence, etc it gets confusing real quick.
You can have the #1 cylinder wherever you want, wires out of sync and cap installed 180 out and it will run okay, but it sure is confusing to work on or troubleshoot. Get everything setup according to Hoyle and it's easy to see what's what, timing wise. Otherwise there's no way to tell. A vacuum gauge is a great way to set timing but still need a light to verify number of degrees advance over the RPM range. If the damper is buggered and the dizzy installed off a tooth, wires out of sequence, etc it gets confusing real quick.
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