I am building up a 56 368 ci "Y" block engine. I have the heads on and the valve train installed I now need to set up the valve timing. I know that there are certain valves you can set up with the #1 piston on the Comp stroke and the rest can be set up with the #6 on the comp stroke. How ever I have no way of knowing when the #1 is on the comp stroke. I tried to set up #1 by watching the valve movement and when the intake opened and then closed I stuck a wire into the cyl and watched the piston come up to TDC and I thought ok its on the comp stroke at TDC, but when I checked the dampner timing mark it wasn't anywhere close to the pointer.. But I can only rotate the crank dampner bolt clockwise as when I try to turn the dampner counterclock wise it loosens the bolt. Being the case I don't think I am really on the comp stroke as I can't be off that much on the timing mark if it were on the comp stroke even though I turned the crank clockwise! So unless I wait till I get the engine on my run stand and the starter installed anybody have any suggestions?

 

Number 1 and 6 cylinders should both be at TDC at the same time.

For the basic valve timing all that needs to be done is line up the marks on the timing set properly when installing the chain. Dont worry about whether you are on compression stroke or not.

There are a couple techniques for setting valve lash, but the one with the fewest rotations of the crank still requires it be in three different positions.

Checking the accuracy of the damper timing mark is best done with the accurate TDC determined on number one while head is off with a dial gauge (a magnetic cylinder bridge is real handy too). The rubber in the two piece damper assembly can finally age to the point of allowing slippage of the parts, shifting the timing mark.

Maybe I am missing the question.

 

Is anyone there?

 

You did align the timing marks correctly, did you not. Not your normal straight up and down mark alignment.

 

Yes I sure did.I would gladly send you a picture of the timing marks if I knew how to do that!

RV

 

Great, then you are set to adjust valves. You can determine number one compression stroke with plug out and finger in plug hole while rotating crank clockwise. On compression stroke air can be felt to exhaust the spark plug hole. Once that is felt get back to the damper and move mark to TDC point.

 

I left a few things out. My favorite way to adjust valves is to mark the damper in 90 degree quadrants, using TDC as the reference. With one at TDC compression adjust I and E. Rotate clockwise 90 degrees and adjust cylinder 5 I and E. Rotate 90 degrees and adjust 4 cylinder I and E. Continue down the fireing order of 15486372. Guys have other favorite methods.

Also it sounds like the torque on the damper bolt isnt adequate. It should be around 90 ft. lbs. I install some flywheel bolts in the rear crank flange and wedge a bar in there to keep crank from turning while torquing bolt.

 

46yblock- I will recheck my torque on the dampner but I think i is a t 90' lbs. Now to turn the crank shaft using a 1/2" drive ratchet and a deep socket takes all I have to turn the crank with both hands. I have the plugs out but the engine is verty tighrt. SO being the case I can't get the comp stroke feel on the #1 cylinder.. The suggested method to get to the #1 on comp stroke and adj the I & E then go 90 degres and do the next one in the firing order sounds like a winner but to get to the #1 comp strokle and be sure` you are there is my problem/ In order to maintain the proper sequence in the firing order shouldn't I be turning thr crankjcomterclockwise?

 

Clockwise looking at the front of engine. If the damper bolt is 90 fl. lbs. and it breaks loose on counterclockwise rotation, the engine is too tight. Once I measured the rotational torque required to move a new 292 and it was 35 ftl. lbs. if I remember right. Yours is a bigger engine but still should be around 40 I would think.

To move the crank try using the torque wrench and see how much force is required. Then if it is ok use the torque wrench, breaker bar, or cheater bar to move the thing into position. 1/2 inch drive ratchet is too small.

 

46 Y Block and Mike:
Well first off I really feel dumb on my questions. I should have known. Facing the engine and turming the engine clockwise is the way the engine turns and the dist turns counterclockwise.!! I have put mu 1/2" drinve torque wrench on the dampner bolt and turned the engine clockwise and it turns at about 48 Ft Lbs. whch is about what you said it should turn.n I can turn the engibe and feel the air pressure in the #1 cyl and I then bring the cylinder to the TDC mark on the dampner . At that point I inserted the dist with the rotor pointing to the #1 tower. I then rotate the engine through twice and bring it back up on the TDC mark and the #1 is once again pointing to the #1 tower. So Ithink I have my Dist installed correctly.

So now I think I am ready to adj the valves. That 90 degree points on the dampner and going through the firing order seems to me to be the best way to go. There are a couple of push rods when I'm at the TDC on the comp stroke that even though I back off the adjusting screw amost all the way out the push rod doesn't get any play in it? [I'm thinking maybe the Hyd lifter isn't releasing?????? like maybe a hyd lock? Well the book states to turn the screw down two turns. So I will do that and see what happens. These are all new lifters and I soaked dthem in oil for about a week before I installed them. I didnot pump them down as I was told that that is no longer necessary?

I installed some flywheel bolts on the crank and torqued the dampner bolt to 90 Ft Lbs. I know now I do not have to turn the crank counterclockwise so no worry about the bolt coming loose. LOL

Hey guys I really appreciate y'all working with me on this. I am building a run stand to run this engine as soon as I get it done. It will be fully ready to drop into a 56 Lincokln show car when its done.

I still can't figure on how to attach pictures to these post replies?

Thanks for all your nswers.

RV]

 

It sounds like you are getting things under control. No help with the hydraulic lifter here though. What model '56 Lincoln do you have? A few years ago a friend was working on the ignition of a '56 Mark IV 2 door coupe. It was amazing. Still have a few pics of it.

 

That picture you are showing is a 56 mark II not a Mark IV. They only built the Mark II in 56 &57. That 56 has the same engine that I am working on. I have a 56 and a 57 Lincoln Premeire Convertibles .

sure wish I knoew how to send pictures off of my picture galliery

RV

 

I knew it was the same engine, thanks for the correction on II vs IV. To post pics the easiest way is to setup and account at Photobucket or similar site, which is free. Upload pics to your account. Then go to the one you want to post somewhere else and click on the bottom box below the pic, copy, and paste it into the thread being worked on.

 

OK I'm now registered in photiobucket but its still confusing. Do you have an E ,ail address? I can send pics easy to an E mauil.

By the way as you may or maynot know the 368 ci enginfe in my Lincoln nhas what I call a heat riser valve that is installed to the righ Exhaust manifold then the exhaust pipe is put on. This heat valve has a flapper in it and I assume holds the exhaust valve gasses until the manifold heats up. Mine has some audiable noise in uit when I start the engine. Just how important is this valve? can it be welded open? Or can the flapper be remvesd that is insdide this valve?

RVt

 

Of course I am not fully familiar with the Linc valve, but it no doubt is very similar and meant to do the same thing as the valves in smaller Y's. They are prone to fail after only 40 or so years . Many guys do what is necessary to remove them all together. I'll send an FTE Personal Message (PM). Oops, cant do the PM with you only having 6 posts. My mail is 46 @ gmail. com . No spaces. Would like to see your project.