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Need a list of emission control devices (electrical and vacuum) on a 1985 351-4V Econoline 150. Having a hard time understanding the vacuum hose routings. We are starting from from less than nothing as this is a fire job.
The copy of a diagram I did get had abbrevieations for all of the items, but no name. Where can I get a picture of these devices?
Also, there is some type of servo mounted to the manifold immediately to the right from of the car, which was completly destroyed. Is this essential for operation of the engine, or is it striclty for emission control?
Trying to get my neighbor's work van repaired for him so he can go to work! (This one of these deals where you feel the need top help a senior citizen, now he's counting on me.)
To actually run and drive very little of that stuff is needed, it just depends on your Local and State laws. The best place for pics and finding out about those parts is going to a online Parts Store like NAPA and having a look at what's still available.
Do you have any other pics? I have a 85 E150 but she has a 302 in her. Mine is also a TFI ignition system. I haven't ripped out the emissions yet so maybe I might be able to help some. Yours has a DSII ignition on it, I am converting mine to a DSII.
Econo is correct that it only takes a very few vacuum lines to make it drivable.
This came from a bronco site
Automotive Terms & Abbreviations
A/CL DV - Air Cleaner Diverter Valve
A/CL BI MET - Air Cleaner BiMetallic valve
ACV - Air Control Valve
MAN VAC - Manifold Vacuum
EXH HCV - Exhaust Heat Control Valve
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation
SV CBV - Solenoid Valve Carborator Bowl Vent
TVV - Thermal Vacuum Valve
LCV - EGR Load Control Valve
VDV - Vacuum Diverter Valve
HICV - Hot Idle Control Valve
IVV - Thermactor Idle Vacuum Valve
TVS - Throttle Valve Solenoid (aka SolePot, Dashpot)
VCV - Vacuum Control Valve
HEAT VLV INT - Heat Valve Intake
TK - Throttle Kicker
FLTR - uuuuuuhhh... "Filter"
VRDV - Distributor Vacuum Retard Delay Valve
AIR BPV - Air ByPass Valve (aka Thermactor Air Bypass = TAB)
BV - Bowl Vent
S - Spark port
ACT - not sure, but on EFIs it means Air Charge Temperature sensor
SV CBV = Carborator Fuel Bowl Solenoid Vent Valve
LCV = EGR Load Control (WOT =Wide Open Throttle) Valve
HICV = Hot Idle Control Valve
IVV = Thermactor Idle Vacuum Valve
VRDV = Vacuum Delay Valve (VDV, VRDV, DV-TW)
(VDV = Vacuum Delay Valve)
(VRDV = Distributor Retard Delay Valve)
(DV-TW = Two Way Delay Valve)
HEAT VLV INT = Heat Vacuum Control Valve Intake, (next to carb)
Again it's an 85 E-150, 351 4V Holley (Motorcraft edition) w/ mechanical fuel pump.
Was running fine, & quit. Installed a new pump.
Next issue, can't get gas to carb. We have replace the pump twice. When we took the first new one off you could blow through it, we to advance and got another new one. Also we changed the gas filter in the carb.
Blew air back through the line to the front tank, which is full, the one most commonly used on this van, could hear it bubble in the tank. Reconnected the line to the mech pump inlet. Cranked engine, got gas to the carb. Primed engine, started and died. Repeated several times, gas not getting to fuel pump.
Someone locally suggested this van has "lift pumps" in the tanks. Never heard of that with a mechaical pump/carb system. Defintiely could use some insight!.
Mine has a 22gal single rear tank. There is a rubber hose from the tank to a metal line mounted on the frame rails that runs up to the engine. If the rubber line has a crack or pin hole in it, the pump cannot pull enough vacuum to suck the fuel up to the pump.
In my case I can fill the tank and the engine will quit after using 12 gallons.. the pick up tube in the tank is bad on mine.
With the single tank, there is only one pump mounted to the engine. I am not sure with duel tanks.
have you done this: disconnect the the coil wire.. find a 1 pint minimum bottle that is gas resistant. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and connect a piece of fuel line to the end of the fuel line that comes loose from the carb. Put the hose in the bottle and crank the engine over for 10 seconds. you should get at least 1/3 pint of fuel if the pump is working and there are no cracks or pin holes in the fuel line from the tank up to the pump.
Another test is a pressure test. you should read 6 to 8 lbs static pressure after the pump.
I have had a terrible time with aftermarket parts and waisted allot of time replacing new aftermarket parts so it would not be unheard of to have a bad fuel pump...
Try connecting a rubber line to the inlet side of the pump and drop it into a gas can and repeat the flow rate test to double check the pump. If that works you could disconnect the fuel line at the tank valve, add a piece of rubber line there dropped into a gas can and repeat the flow test. If that works and the engine runs, try each individual tank.
one more suggestion. check the fuel lines and make sure there is not a cut off valve in the line somewhere. My father had a garage when i was younger. one of his customers had borrowed a car from a friend while his car was being repaired. The borrowed car quit running and it was towed to my fathers shop. The owner of the car had installed his own anti-theft device. it was a solenoid valve in the gas line with the switch mounted in a rear door ashtray. The customer who borrowed the car, one of his children sitting in the back of the car had flipped the switch!
Sorry I didn't get back with you early to acknowledge your suggestions. Weweere troubleshooting the traditonal potential problems 1 by 1, was looking for something Econoline specific. Didn't work on it all weeek due to work. Thanks for the tips.
Try this for 1985 fuel system
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/fuelelectric.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/fuelelectric.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo fuelelectric.jpg"/></a>
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