More electrical/battery problems
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Turns out the solenoid was the problem. Replaced and doing OK, however the alternator is still not charging my battery. I know I have the major wires hooked on correctly (to the alt) but there is a small black wire that I "thought" went underneath the red/positive wire, but now may need to be under the ground wire? This small black wire doesn't lead to anything other then a small bulb/cylinder that screws to the back of my alternator.
When the truck started w/o the key yes my starter was engaged the whole while the truck was "running" (which was about 10 seconds because it was freaking me out).
When the truck started w/o the key yes my starter was engaged the whole while the truck was "running" (which was about 10 seconds because it was freaking me out).
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 862
Likes: 7
From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Glad the start issue is sorted!
Maybe post a picture of that bulb/cylinder or wire your talking about... Also review the 3G alternator swap...
Basically the alternator needs switched power (from ignition switch) to energize the windings and regulator to produce power. Typically, this wire is fed through the ALT light on the dash. Thing get a bit complicated with the Ammeter gauge set, but is not impossible to deal with. Again, review other threads or posts about the 3G Alternator swap on this site as well as others.
Is the belt slipping causing the low current output? Can't imagine a stock truck drawing enough current to make it slip...
Anyway, random thoughts just before bed
Maybe post a picture of that bulb/cylinder or wire your talking about... Also review the 3G alternator swap...
Basically the alternator needs switched power (from ignition switch) to energize the windings and regulator to produce power. Typically, this wire is fed through the ALT light on the dash. Thing get a bit complicated with the Ammeter gauge set, but is not impossible to deal with. Again, review other threads or posts about the 3G Alternator swap on this site as well as others.
Is the belt slipping causing the low current output? Can't imagine a stock truck drawing enough current to make it slip...
Anyway, random thoughts just before bed
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 243
Likes: 10
NAPA Echlin STH404 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...404_0065236187
Application: 1996 Ford F150, and probably many others.
I installed it in the same holes in the old spot, you can see the one I picked up from a junkyard that I painted white on the right.
...
Maybe leave both small wire unattached and put a voltmeter on them with the ignition on. The one wire that has 8-ish volts with ignition in run position should be the I terminal wire. Have a helper turn the ignition to the start with a voltmeter on the other wire and that should be your S Terminal. You can do this on both the new style and old style relay/solenoids. Oh Yeah, make sure the truck can't move and run ya over, especially if it's a manual.
Hope this helps!
Application: 1996 Ford F150, and probably many others.
I installed it in the same holes in the old spot, you can see the one I picked up from a junkyard that I painted white on the right.
...
Maybe leave both small wire unattached and put a voltmeter on them with the ignition on. The one wire that has 8-ish volts with ignition in run position should be the I terminal wire. Have a helper turn the ignition to the start with a voltmeter on the other wire and that should be your S Terminal. You can do this on both the new style and old style relay/solenoids. Oh Yeah, make sure the truck can't move and run ya over, especially if it's a manual.
Hope this helps!
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 862
Likes: 7
From: like subarctic, brrr man!
If the relay works, I wouldn't worry about it. When mine failed, NAPA gave me the new style. And now I upgraded to the PMGR starter which significantly lowers the current draw through this relay further negating any issues with it.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I might have to convert to the newer solenoid (f**k I don't know). The truck was running OK for about a week and then it won't start AT ALL now, wont even turn over. Jumping it doesn't help, I cant just ear the solenoid rattlin (everything is grounded and connected the way it was when truck was running, all major parts are new)
I'll have to remember to get a picture of my alt tomorrow. Sorry to bring up an old post, didn't feel the need to make a whole new one
I'll have to remember to get a picture of my alt tomorrow. Sorry to bring up an old post, didn't feel the need to make a whole new one
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville, TN
Check your cables: a bad ground from the battery to the engine block can cause hard-to-diagnose problems like that.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrollings53
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Aug 16, 2017 01:51 PM
oldworldwil
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Nov 17, 2012 06:47 AM
Ford4X4ingboy
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Jun 8, 2011 07:52 PM
lurch460
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jun 26, 2010 06:12 PM