More electrical/battery problems
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More electrical/battery problems
I've checked through a couple threads to see if anyone else has had this problem (so far haven't seen much that would help, sorry if I'm wrong)
Anyway, previously had problems starting my project up, replaced some things including the battery and we were running pretty good (still needs timing adjusted, carb tuned, and some tranny work.... I'm still learning as I go). Drove and parked it Tuesday, went to start it Wednesday, and nothing. Checked to see if I left lights on or anything stupid like that, couldn't find anything, so I took the battery to get tested as well as the alt, both tested good(battery was drained completely but charged up fine). SO I then put it all back together for kicks and giggles. Well when I put the neg cable on the battery (after the pos) it started up... ignition was turned off and key was out. Does this mean my ignition module is bad? I hooked the alternator back the way I took it apart so I don't think that's the issue.
Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question (that probably has a real obvious answer), but I'm not very smart when it comes to electrical/wiring... Can anyone help?
Anyway, previously had problems starting my project up, replaced some things including the battery and we were running pretty good (still needs timing adjusted, carb tuned, and some tranny work.... I'm still learning as I go). Drove and parked it Tuesday, went to start it Wednesday, and nothing. Checked to see if I left lights on or anything stupid like that, couldn't find anything, so I took the battery to get tested as well as the alt, both tested good(battery was drained completely but charged up fine). SO I then put it all back together for kicks and giggles. Well when I put the neg cable on the battery (after the pos) it started up... ignition was turned off and key was out. Does this mean my ignition module is bad? I hooked the alternator back the way I took it apart so I don't think that's the issue.
Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question (that probably has a real obvious answer), but I'm not very smart when it comes to electrical/wiring... Can anyone help?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
The ignition module is unrelated to your issue.
To me it means the ignition switch or related wiring is bad. It apparently is stuck or wired in the "start" position and was shorted in the run position.... That's why the battery was dead.
I suggest tracing and verifying the ignition system is wired correctly.
To me it means the ignition switch or related wiring is bad. It apparently is stuck or wired in the "start" position and was shorted in the run position.... That's why the battery was dead.
I suggest tracing and verifying the ignition system is wired correctly.
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bkaul, Yep, fired straight up without hesitating, kinda scared me for a minute. When I took the neg cable back off it shut down (obviously), couldn't use the key to shut it off since it wasn't exactly "on"
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2013
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Wow, I could see me getting run over my my 4 speed...
Good luck getting that sorted out, you're in the right place!
Good luck getting that sorted out, you're in the right place!
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Fleet Owner
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From: NorCal
I've heard of guys getting pinned against their workbench or garage doors - not a good situation.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2013
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That gives me the jeebies. I did get out of par once fiddling with points and cranked my 4 speed in first.. It got half way up the dam of my grandmothers pond before I split my shorts diving up and in on the clutch..
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 682
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From: NB, Canada
My first thought was stuck solenoid as well, but if it was it shouldn't have started and ran, it would have just cranked. Something is feeding the start/run circuit
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Knoxville, TN
That depends ... the ignition coil is powered from the R position through a resistor wire, but there's a wire from the I terminal on the solenoid that connects in and bypasses that, supplying 12V during cranking. If he's got electronic ignition, he'd also need power to the ignition module, but it's possible the ~9V that would backfeed through the resistor wire to the switch would be enough to run it.
What I'm not sure of: Is the I terminal wired in parallel with the large lug for the starter (i.e. switched by the solenoid), or is it wired in parallel with the S terminal (i.e. jumpering from the S wire from the switch)?
What I'm not sure of: Is the I terminal wired in parallel with the large lug for the starter (i.e. switched by the solenoid), or is it wired in parallel with the S terminal (i.e. jumpering from the S wire from the switch)?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: like subarctic, brrr man!
The I Terminal is not wired to any of the other terminals, unless the relay/solenoid is activated. When activated, then I terminal and the Starter Lug are energized by the Battery Lug.
This is certainly a confusing problem... I really don't like the old barrel style solenoid/relay because I've always had problems with them, like turning over with key out
I would recommend upgrading to the newer style.
Was the starter engaged with the engine running?
This is certainly a confusing problem... I really don't like the old barrel style solenoid/relay because I've always had problems with them, like turning over with key out
I would recommend upgrading to the newer style.Was the starter engaged with the engine running?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
The I Terminal is not wired to any of the other terminals, unless the relay/solenoid is activated. When activated, then I terminal and the Starter Lug are energized by the Battery Lug.
This is certainly a confusing problem... I really don't like the old barrel style solenoid/relay because I've always had problems with them, like turning over with key out I would recommend upgrading to the newer style.
Was the starter engaged with the engine running?
This is certainly a confusing problem... I really don't like the old barrel style solenoid/relay because I've always had problems with them, like turning over with key out
I would recommend upgrading to the newer style.Was the starter engaged with the engine running?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 862
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From: like subarctic, brrr man!
NAPA Echlin STH404 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...404_0065236187
Application: 1996 Ford F150, and probably many others.
I installed it in the same holes in the old spot, you can see the one I picked up from a junkyard that I painted white on the right.
...
Maybe leave both small wire unattached and put a voltmeter on them with the ignition on. The one wire that has 8-ish volts with ignition in run position should be the I terminal wire. Have a helper turn the ignition to the start with a voltmeter on the other wire and that should be your S Terminal. You can do this on both the new style and old style relay/solenoids. Oh Yeah, make sure the truck can't move and run ya over, especially if it's a manual.
Hope this helps!
Application: 1996 Ford F150, and probably many others.
I installed it in the same holes in the old spot, you can see the one I picked up from a junkyard that I painted white on the right.
...
Maybe leave both small wire unattached and put a voltmeter on them with the ignition on. The one wire that has 8-ish volts with ignition in run position should be the I terminal wire. Have a helper turn the ignition to the start with a voltmeter on the other wire and that should be your S Terminal. You can do this on both the new style and old style relay/solenoids. Oh Yeah, make sure the truck can't move and run ya over, especially if it's a manual.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by ZarK-eh; May 1, 2015 at 09:07 PM. Reason: added pic of my junk
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Knoxville, TN
Was the starter engaged with the engine running?