Ok, I had a new project drop in my lap at work. It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now.
The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me:
Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly. According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long.
It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
Has anyone encountered a problem like this?

 

Ouch.

With a bunch of starting fluid I might be inclined to do a
leak-down test on it at this point.

What are you using to scan it with?


Sean

 

I am using an ELM bluetooth adapter with Car Gauge Pro.

 

Not a big fan of the ELM based tools. For that matter the SGII is not a big
go to one for heavy duty diagnostics. I think that Snap-On or the VCM or
the VCM2 are the better picks. IMHO.


Sean

 

Check the pigtails on the cam and crank sensors. There is a pinpoint test for the crank and cam sensors Yahiko may be able to help you find in the ford manual. You need a digital volt ohm meter that will read hz. I would start there. A high circuit code is either a faulty logic board in the ficm, wiring harness shorted to ground or an injector coil shorted. Ohm out both coils on injector 4 for circuit resistance and to ground.

 

Give me a but to have a look at the DVD and see what I can find.
The 03~04 DVD is more of a pain to get PDFs out of.

I'll edit this and post them here as soon as I get them.
Most likely it will be from the diagnostics section.


EDIT : Well that was not too bad. Not the same section as usual.
This was in the Emission and diagnostics section.

Sean

 

Sounds like a project Jared, one thing about it all, never believe or assume the past history. Start with a clean plate. Where did the FICM rebuild story come from and who did the work?

 

Ok, I had some time on this truck again today. For starters, the inspecting engineer is a moron. I pulled the CKP, stuck a screwdriver in the hole and got zero movement out of the tone ring. So, I checked out the sensor itself. Ohmed out within specs, but a visual inspection showed the sensor to be deformed. Someone installed it improperly, and the mount ear was twisted so the sensor head sat about .050" further from the wheel than it should have. For S&G I put in yet another new crank sensor, with grease on the o-ring, and disconnected the #4 injector. I cranked it and got proper RPMs on the scanner, then got sync and smoke. It took a bit but it finally lit off and ran, although with a misfire due to the disconnected injector. So, ran it around to the front, did a little dance and put a new injector in. It cranks evenly and fires eventually, so it must have just stuck a valve from sitting.
Now, it does fire up but it takes about 30seconds of cranking. ICP comes up quickly, but it takes way longer than it should to light off. Once it starts, all cylinders fire and it's smooth. Could this be a plugged IPR screen?

 

You mention that ether was used quite a bit during diag. Curious what damage that may have caused, glow plugs, rings, etc... Do you have any blowby?

 

With all the ether usage like the others I would suspect cylinder/ring condition.
No more oil film on the cylinder walls, rings; valve issues. At the least check compression
even a relative compression and leak down.

 

^^^^^^^ Ether = bad juju.....

 

That was before I got here, but it runs fine now. No smoke on startup, just a ten second crank time. The glow plug controller was partially unplugged, can that effect starting even when warm?