Stuck on road
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Should be STC not SCT Or Snap To Connect.
Need to quit typing late at night
And EGR not DGR.
Sean
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 344
From: Breckenridge, TX
STC fitting is a $40 part that can be replaced with only removing the turbo. By itself it's a 4-8 hour job (conservatively, IMO, for a first timer) depending on much you want to flirt with the turbo before you get serious about removing it.
1) Remove turbo and pedestal (you might be able to leave the air filter in place and only remove the intake tube by disconnecting the MAF and turning 90* to remove from CVC plug if you pish the degas bottle off to the side)
2) Remove the two PITA heat shield to HPOP cover bolts (6mm?)
3) Remove the 8mm HPOP cover plate bolts (leave three under EGR cooler in their holes, don't drop them)
4) Remove two STC bolt from branch tube, two HPOP bolts, lift out pump.
5) R&R STC fitting with the new kit
6) Reverse install
Trickiest parts are the factory marmon clamp on the turbo inlet, and the three bolts under the EGR cooler. Flip the clamp when you take the turbo out, and put the three bolts into the HPOP cover before you try to reinstall. Have a good 10mm 1/4" drive socket, and a 17mm damaged bolt remover and the turbo shouldn't be a problem. It seems like turbo bolts give some people fits, but my first time I put a folded up blanket over the intake horn, laid across the top of the engine, and literally hugged the turbo with a hand around each side. It's tight but if you look at a picture of the rear bolt before you should find it no problem without being able to see it directly.
Parts list:
STC fitting kit
Turbo install kit
Grey RTV sealant
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/stc-hpop-updated-fitting/
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/turbo-reinstall-kit-6-0l/
(copy without <!--/-->, open on YouTube directly)
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuTKDPZhMdk
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOM-y_S7QGY
1) Remove turbo and pedestal (you might be able to leave the air filter in place and only remove the intake tube by disconnecting the MAF and turning 90* to remove from CVC plug if you pish the degas bottle off to the side)
2) Remove the two PITA heat shield to HPOP cover bolts (6mm?)
3) Remove the 8mm HPOP cover plate bolts (leave three under EGR cooler in their holes, don't drop them)
4) Remove two STC bolt from branch tube, two HPOP bolts, lift out pump.
5) R&R STC fitting with the new kit
6) Reverse install
Trickiest parts are the factory marmon clamp on the turbo inlet, and the three bolts under the EGR cooler. Flip the clamp when you take the turbo out, and put the three bolts into the HPOP cover before you try to reinstall. Have a good 10mm 1/4" drive socket, and a 17mm damaged bolt remover and the turbo shouldn't be a problem. It seems like turbo bolts give some people fits, but my first time I put a folded up blanket over the intake horn, laid across the top of the engine, and literally hugged the turbo with a hand around each side. It's tight but if you look at a picture of the rear bolt before you should find it no problem without being able to see it directly.
Parts list:
STC fitting kit
Turbo install kit
Grey RTV sealant
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/stc-hpop-updated-fitting/
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/turbo-reinstall-kit-6-0l/
(copy without <!--/-->, open on YouTube directly)
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuTKDPZhMdk
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOM-y_S7QGY
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
STC fitting is a $40 part that can be replaced with only removing the turbo. By itself it's a 4-8 hour job (conservatively, IMO, for a first timer) depending on much you want to flirt with the turbo before you get serious about removing it.
1) Remove turbo and pedestal (you might be able to leave the air filter in place and only remove the intake tube by disconnecting the MAF and turning 90* to remove from CVC plug if you pish the degas bottle off to the side)
2) Remove the two PITA heat shield to HPOP cover bolts (6mm?)
3) Remove the 8mm HPOP cover plate bolts (leave three under EGR cooler in their holes, don't drop them)
4) Remove two STC bolt from branch tube, two HPOP bolts, lift out pump.
5) R&R STC fitting with the new kit
6) Reverse install
Trickiest parts are the factory marmon clamp on the turbo inlet, and the three bolts under the EGR cooler. Flip the clamp when you take the turbo out, and put the three bolts into the HPOP cover before you try to reinstall. Have a good 10mm 1/4" drive socket, and a 17mm damaged bolt remover and the turbo shouldn't be a problem. It seems like turbo bolts give some people fits, but my first time I put a folded up blanket over the intake horn, laid across the top of the engine, and literally hugged the turbo with a hand around each side. It's tight but if you look at a picture of the rear bolt before you should find it no problem without being able to see it directly.
Parts list:
STC fitting kit
Turbo install kit
Grey RTV sealant
STC HPOP Updated Fitting - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Turbo Reinstall Kit - 6.0L - Riffraff Diesel Performance
(copy without <!--/-->, open on YouTube directly)
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuTKDPZhMdk
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOM-y_S7QGY
1) Remove turbo and pedestal (you might be able to leave the air filter in place and only remove the intake tube by disconnecting the MAF and turning 90* to remove from CVC plug if you pish the degas bottle off to the side)
2) Remove the two PITA heat shield to HPOP cover bolts (6mm?)
3) Remove the 8mm HPOP cover plate bolts (leave three under EGR cooler in their holes, don't drop them)
4) Remove two STC bolt from branch tube, two HPOP bolts, lift out pump.
5) R&R STC fitting with the new kit
6) Reverse install
Trickiest parts are the factory marmon clamp on the turbo inlet, and the three bolts under the EGR cooler. Flip the clamp when you take the turbo out, and put the three bolts into the HPOP cover before you try to reinstall. Have a good 10mm 1/4" drive socket, and a 17mm damaged bolt remover and the turbo shouldn't be a problem. It seems like turbo bolts give some people fits, but my first time I put a folded up blanket over the intake horn, laid across the top of the engine, and literally hugged the turbo with a hand around each side. It's tight but if you look at a picture of the rear bolt before you should find it no problem without being able to see it directly.
Parts list:
STC fitting kit
Turbo install kit
Grey RTV sealant
STC HPOP Updated Fitting - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Turbo Reinstall Kit - 6.0L - Riffraff Diesel Performance
(copy without <!--/-->, open on YouTube directly)
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuTKDPZhMdk
//https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOM-y_S7QGY
the cover or unhappy things can happen.
Sean
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,455
Likes: 8
From: Williams Lake B.C.
So the shop changed the SCT , thought everything was good.
They did a pressure test and theres still something leaking?
Still cranking lots to start ..................or sometimes not to start.
They did a pressure test and theres still something leaking?
Still cranking lots to start ..................or sometimes not to start.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Standpipes and dummy plugs? Or ICP sensor or pigtail. Did you pay the $2100 already? We can help you with what the SG2 or other device is reading, this will prevent them changing parts until they fix it. You will learn quickly what things mean. I would bet it's not seeing the ICP hreater than 500 psi to command the injectors. It's a system and things need to work together properly.
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