Yep, Good Advice Alternators kill Battery's too and those get mighty pricey.

 

Without knowing what it means the gauges don't help me a lot.
When Im going to work at 5 in the morning Im not intrested in scanning 30 different things I just want it too start.
Im sure my truck isn't the first 6l that ran out of fuel and stated having issues? It could be something else but it ran fine until it ran out of fuel which makes me think its fuel/air related.
Nobody ever has said the proper way to get it running and the air out of it after its ran out?

 

That makes sense........................
Was the wiring hard to upgrade?

 

Speaking from firsthand experience of running a 6.0L bone dry, going 70 on the highway when it died...

* Refuel, I put in 4 gallons from a plastic can.

* Cycle the key until the fuel pump shuts off several times. Three cycles is considered "safe" to purge air from between the tank and secondary filter after a filter change, watching on a fuel pressure gauge mine comes up on the second cycle usually. The high point for air to bleed from is the top of the fuel pressure regulator, you can actually hear air while it's purging. Cycle it six or eight times if you want, probably won't make a difference past two or three.

*Start the truck. It'll jackhammer, it miss, and it'll shimmy shake and jive until the air is purged from the fuel rails in the heads. Give it a minute or three to sort itself out.

*Drive the truck. It might randomly skip a few times in the first few minutes or so, but then it's done and it's back to normal.

*Restarts should be perfectly normal, unless you damaged an injector. Which would mean it was probably marginal anyways, or there were other underlying problems.

Measure the length you need, order or make it, and bolt it in. Or buy a premade kit. It's easy to do, just three or four wires to add in, don't remove the stock wires.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...epair-com.html


We can tell you exactly what to watch for. It's a short list, but the truck has more computing power in it than the Apollo command module, so it's going to take a computer to diagnose it correctly.

For your hot no start: you watch Injector Control Pressure desired (ICP), Injector Control Pressure voltage (ICPV - actual), and Injector Pressure Regulator duty cycle (IPR%). The PCM will need to see 500psi (.85V IIRC) on the ICPV actual to start the truck. IPR% shows what the valve is doing to try to create that pressure. You watch desired ICP go up to 500-800 when cranking because that's what the PCM wants to see, you'll see the IPR% spike to 85% (fully closed) to try to get that pressure, but ICPV(actual) will stay under .85V. ICPV will climb up slowly, then when it hits the magic number the truck will start. When idling hot, IPR% should be around 21-23% with ICP around 580psi, but if you have a leak then IPR% starts climbing at idle, up into the 30-40% range.

FICM voltage is mindlessly easy. You program the code in, and if it goes below 45V you get the module repaired. Cut and dry simple. Same with engine voltage, if it goes below 11V with the glowplugs on, or if it never goes over 13.2-13.4V running, your alternator is dying. It might last a week or a year, but it's not optimal and can be impacting other things. When one of our '07s had the alternator crap out, it was under 10V and the trans wouldn't shift right. New alt and batteries, and it hasn't shifted funny once in 40k miles. Electrical problems breed weird and sometimes conflicting symptoms because of all the computers.

You don't have to watch 30 things constantly, you just have to watch what is actually happening when it's behaving badly. Otherwise you're just guessing, when the actual answer is sitting right inside the PCM.

 

Have you checked fuel pressure yet?

Cycling the key, and letting the fuel pump run several times should purge all the air out of the fuel system from pickup tube, to upper filter housing. A few minutes of running should clear the lines from upper filter housing to injectors. Unless something is leaking, it's that easy.

Here's a flow diagram.
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_028.html

 

thanks William and Texastech, I guess its not the fuel thing if its that easy to get running again.
Ive had diesel engines that were next to impossible to get running right once they ran out.
Ive driven this thing probably 30 miles since it ran out so I guess air isn't the problem

 

Nope!
I elected to do the precut with terminated ends that is offered on FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts and they show the suggested route in a picture on their site. Their wires also include a fuse between the alternator and the primary battery.

 

The problem is that you can have a number of things going on - regardless of what you "think" is going on.

An example that might apply - bad batteries and a bad alternator can kill FICMs instantly. All of the attempts to start can set it all in motion (ie drain batteries, etc). These events are connected and to have a scan tool to rule out things (primarily that you are getting FICM sync and have good FICM voltage) can save you money (maybe now, maybe in the future, but it will be beneficial).

If you are still getting air into the fuel, then the things to investigate are (but you yourself seem to have ruled this out already):
- leak in the fuel pump suction system (fuel tank pick-up, fuel line, HFCM filter cap seal)
- bad fuel pump
- possibly even an issue with the fuel pump regulator
It is definitely not normal for the fuel bowl to drain out continually. Maybe others can point you in the right direction on this one.

It is very important to know your fuel pressure (part of the gauge system recommended). You can ruin injectors that cost $2000 with low fuel pressure. Simply getting the engine started is only part of the battle for a 6.0L owner. Preventing costly future problems is equally as important. This gauge needs an add-on sensor also.

As stated earlier - Possibly ruining your injectors is pretty much the biggest issue to deal with on a 6.0L when you run out of fuel.

Not directly fuel connected (but everyone is trying to tell you that your symptoms sound like there is an issue here), is the high pressure oil system (that actuates injectors). It is common with a later model year 6.0L. This is the ICP and IPR readings that people are talking about. Pretty easy to determine if you have something that can read engine parameters (the electronic gauge system). It would be wise to check that out, but that clearly is your choice. If you want to do some limited troubleshooting on it, you can get ICP voltages off of the sensor wiring (ie poke your meter leads through the insulation). The minimum voltage you need is around 0.82 volts.

It is also not uncommon to have multiple issues and they can develop quickly. We have seen many people that don't believe it and have been bitten by it.

 

Sorry Guys for not keeping up with this thread , been working the Night shift all great advise thus far. the Alt wiring is not that hard to do as noted, and watching a gauge is even easier when things get funky at least you can catch the ( other Issues) before it/they happen money well spent for the piece of mind it give's, well it keeps on giving Oh have we drained the water separator?

 

I changed both fuel filters is there a separator also?


Its going to get scanned on Monday morning.

 

Any news yet?

 

Yes sir, down on the rail under the drivers door where you replaced with a OEM filter look on the flat side there is a Allen nut ( be careful not to strip it out) maybe spray some brake free or WD let it sit,( then tight right loose left) I usually drain mine every oil change or filter.

 

So took it to a shop today.
Not sure what they called it SCV connection or something like that?
Its inside the engine on a high pressure oil line going to the injectors.


They said they would fix it , do a EGR delete and add a tuner for $2100
Sound reasonable?

 

NO.
About 1/2 that would be high by my thinking.


STC maybe? It's at the back of the HPOP pump
and can be a real problem if/when it goes.

The EGR delete is not that hard and onve you in there
for that you can also remove the cover to the HPOP and put
a upgraded STC replacement fitting in.
Also if you that far in you may want to do the Stand Pipes and Dummy Plugs.
They are under the valve covers and with the top half out of the way it would
be easy.

Sean

 

Yes it was the SCT.
What are the stand pipes and dummy plugs Ill ask him about them?