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Hello, I am doing a non-typical D60 swap. I am putting a D60 into the F250 from my sig off of a 1990 complete donor F350. What's different is I want to put my TTB D44 into the donor F350.
Is there a way to transfer the riveted crossmember to axle support for the TTB to the 350?
Someone did that on this board a year or so ago. I forget who it was, but if you search enough you ought to be able to find it. As I recall it was a pretty straightforward swap both ways and he went from two running trucks to two running trucks in a weekend.
Me and My brother did that kind of swap a few months ago all in a weekend. My brother took the D60 out of my 89 f350 and put it in his 97 f250. I took his ttb and put it in my truck along with the blocks and springs from his truck. I also got his rims and tires.
the crossmember is part of the truck frame, and is the same on both vehicles. the drop bracket for the TTB bolts in the same place as the drop bracket for the trac bar.
simply unbolt and swap the drop brackets. they asre held on by 3 5/8 bolts if i remember the size correctly.
Thanks for all the replies. Just to clarify, in the forum write-up article for the swap he ground off the protruding bracket in the middle because it was riveted. I'll crawl under and check on the 250, D60 is already pulled so it's easy to look at the 350.
This is what he says in the article: Once the old IFS axle is removed you’ll
have to remove the cross member to axle brackets to make room for the Dana
60. There were two brackets which unbolted and came off with no problems.
A third, on the drivers side, is riveted and bolted to the frame near the
engine mount. It also appears to provide structural support to the
engine mount. You may wish to grind down the rivets and remove the
bracket altogether, however we felt it best to leave it in place and grind
down the part that would interfere with the Dana 60, see the following
pictures. But if you do this you can’t go back, so understand the
consequences before getting out the grinder. This is after grinding, is this just the track bar stuff?
Well that is nice to know, thanks for clearing that up!
Where do you guys order rebuild parts from? I've priced out East Coast Gear to about $600 shipped with both outer and the differential rebuild kits. Any other suggestions?
the last rebuild i did was close to 15 years ago, and i got everything to redo the diff for $300 from a local speed shop, including gear set and kingpins.
No need to swap cross members. They're all pretty much the same. I changed my 84 F250 over to a D60. Pretty much a direct bolt on, only had to drill two holes for the track bar bracket. But 80-84 F350s didn't have a solid axle, so the cross members were not drilled yet. I am 95% sure all F250s and 350s from 1985-1997 had all the holes drilled in the cross members. So on newer models, a TTB to Monobeam swap was a bolt on affair.
I'm having trouble figuring out what model number u-joint I need. I know to use greaseable Spicers, my options are: 1310 / 5-1310X, 1350 / 5-1350X, 1410 / 5-1410X, 1480 / SPL55X, and 5-733x / SPL55-4X. Just wondering which models you guys use for axleshafts and driveshafts. Thanks