Starting problems
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Starting problems
Ok I just overhauled my 1971 with a 300 6cyl. It cranks up cold really well and runs and idles great but once everything gets up to temperature it won't restart. It does turn over but with a lot of hesitation maybe a half a revolution then it stops. It just drags the whole time till it cools completely down. (By the way I did put a new starter on it although I haven't ruled it out yet.) Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Ditto, verify timing. Too advanced and engine will "kick back" on starter.
If timing is OK, grind and clean ground connections at block and solenoid down to bare bright shiny metal. Check the voltage drop during crank w/ ignition disabled, should not exceed a tenth of a volt or so across any one cable or connection and starter case, positive cable starter post to battery post positive, etc.
Did you paint your motor? The starter grounds through block and may interfere, along with cable at block pad or bolt. Replace cables if they are old/original. The voltage drop test will show if it's a grounding issue or, current being soaked by a dragging armature, etc.
Hot weather or high underhood temps really brings out weakness in the starting cables and circuit. Headers can contribute to this symptom at the starter as well. Let us know what you find.
If timing is OK, grind and clean ground connections at block and solenoid down to bare bright shiny metal. Check the voltage drop during crank w/ ignition disabled, should not exceed a tenth of a volt or so across any one cable or connection and starter case, positive cable starter post to battery post positive, etc.
Did you paint your motor? The starter grounds through block and may interfere, along with cable at block pad or bolt. Replace cables if they are old/original. The voltage drop test will show if it's a grounding issue or, current being soaked by a dragging armature, etc.
Hot weather or high underhood temps really brings out weakness in the starting cables and circuit. Headers can contribute to this symptom at the starter as well. Let us know what you find.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Battery cables seems to be the last thing many guys want to replace. Maybe in their mine they think it's only wire so how can it go bad. Right!
After years 40+ they get corroded inside where it can't be seen that reduce the flow of current. Plus when replacing battery cables do so with the correct wire gauge, also causes slow cranking to hard starting.
Also do the little engine grounding one's on the rear of the engine to firewall.
And as always on a clean shiny metal areas and tighten.
Oh yeah best to buy the correct color coded cables to avoid any accidents from any one putting on jumper cables.
I have seen times over where someone just used what ever cable they may have had laying around. Like a red for a ground cable with out any ID markings.
This post is for everyone!
Orich
After years 40+ they get corroded inside where it can't be seen that reduce the flow of current. Plus when replacing battery cables do so with the correct wire gauge, also causes slow cranking to hard starting.
Also do the little engine grounding one's on the rear of the engine to firewall.
And as always on a clean shiny metal areas and tighten.
Oh yeah best to buy the correct color coded cables to avoid any accidents from any one putting on jumper cables.
I have seen times over where someone just used what ever cable they may have had laying around. Like a red for a ground cable with out any ID markings.
This post is for everyone!
Orich
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
78bigunns
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Oct 2, 2006 01:15 PM
