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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

brake very soft

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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 06:24 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jeep_guy48
I finally got time to pull the line and plug it as suggested and the brakes got rock solid. I am assuming the ads valve is toast. Would it be better to bypass it or replace it?
this is a personal preference. i do not own anything with working ABS, but i have been driving for over 45 years so i know how to drive vehicles with no ABS.

if you bypass it, you have to remember that the brakes will lock up if you stomp on them and you will slide.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 05:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 91 Dually
Thanks for the link
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 07:11 PM
  #33  
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Had a chance to change the rabs valve and it was super easy. I bleed the system again and finally have rear breaks. Overall my pedal is still soft or at least soft then I would like. The only other thing I can think of is the booster. Is there something I might have overlooked or does that sound right?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 07:24 PM
  #34  
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Did you bleed the rabs then the wheel cylinders?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 07:40 PM
  #35  
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I started at the farthest point from the master and worked my way closer.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 11:17 PM
  #36  
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I would have done it opposite personally. But I have seen someone post an elaborate procedure for it. I'm not exactly sure how he said anymore but maybe he will chime in
 
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 05:32 AM
  #37  
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#Just a note# Only way I could get my pedal up was adjusting the rear brakes..... I mean by raising the rear off the floor, insert jack stands, Adjust brakes through the hole in backing plate (With wheels and drums still on) Adjust up till you feel a slight drag, do other side the same, done.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 06:02 AM
  #38  
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The rear brakes are adjusted. I can feel then stop and when I had the wheels off I couldn't pull the drums off.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 06:15 AM
  #39  
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there is a step to bleed the RABS valve.: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10823335
 
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