Time for a long block
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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Time for a long block
My truck has top end and bottom end noise now. Changing to thicker oil didn't help after all. In the end, I figure restoring this truck was a marathon, not a sprint.
Oh well. It looks sharp, and should receive the same attention to the engine. Long blocks from a reputable business here run about $1k with a 12 mo warranty. My truck has an Offy DP, Autolite 4100, EFI exhaust manifolds, Y-pipe and 2.5" exhaust, electronic ignition. Is it worth having a mild cam put in the long block? I have a budget that won't stretch much farther, unless I REALLY SHOULD upgrade the cam. I don't even know what that would run or what I'd ask for.
Oh well. It looks sharp, and should receive the same attention to the engine. Long blocks from a reputable business here run about $1k with a 12 mo warranty. My truck has an Offy DP, Autolite 4100, EFI exhaust manifolds, Y-pipe and 2.5" exhaust, electronic ignition. Is it worth having a mild cam put in the long block? I have a budget that won't stretch much farther, unless I REALLY SHOULD upgrade the cam. I don't even know what that would run or what I'd ask for.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Great looking truck.
If want a little better performance then your current engine and you can swing it, the cam upgrade is a good choice. It's the best time to do it. Rather then tear the engine back down later. If you like the way your engine currently performs ( besides the noises ) then just stick with the stock cam.
If want a little better performance then your current engine and you can swing it, the cam upgrade is a good choice. It's the best time to do it. Rather then tear the engine back down later. If you like the way your engine currently performs ( besides the noises ) then just stick with the stock cam.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 83
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Great looking truck.
If want a little better performance then your current engine and you can swing it, the cam upgrade is a good choice. It's the best time to do it. Rather then tear the engine back down later. If you like the way your engine currently performs ( besides the noises ) then just stick with the stock cam.
If want a little better performance then your current engine and you can swing it, the cam upgrade is a good choice. It's the best time to do it. Rather then tear the engine back down later. If you like the way your engine currently performs ( besides the noises ) then just stick with the stock cam.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
When you swap the cam you also want to swap, Lifters, valve springs and the timing set. The comp cams K-kits ( include everything needed for the swap ) go for right around $300.00.
You need to pass emissions with a 60's truck??? Where do you live? Let me know so I don't move there!
It's all up to you whether to stay with a stock cam or not.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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I talked to the engine builder today. It will be an extra $250 for the performance cam and related parts. If I just chose to use Chevy rockers, there is no cost. I'm leaning towards the performance cam. Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 458
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Is this a supplier of rebuilt engines to auto parts stores? A lot of those outfits use the cheapest parts (esp. pistons) available. If you haven't done so, talk to a couple of long-established auto machine shop owners in your area, and see what they say about this rebuilder. Talking to the old machinists is always a good first move before making any decisions.
If the builder is doing this engine as a custom job for you, ask him about setting the squish-height (by milling the block deck after taking a measurement with the head temporarily installed). It's a chore, but it really helps the engine resist detonation if you start improving cylinder-filling with cams, manifolds, etc.. Setting the squish is something the engine designers would love to do if it weren't impossibly expensive in a production-line setting. The other thing to ask about is doing a "port and bowl" cleanup of the head, which gives small improvements in cylinder-filling "free," before you go to non-stock cams or high-ratio rockers.
Gorgeous truck!!
If the builder is doing this engine as a custom job for you, ask him about setting the squish-height (by milling the block deck after taking a measurement with the head temporarily installed). It's a chore, but it really helps the engine resist detonation if you start improving cylinder-filling with cams, manifolds, etc.. Setting the squish is something the engine designers would love to do if it weren't impossibly expensive in a production-line setting. The other thing to ask about is doing a "port and bowl" cleanup of the head, which gives small improvements in cylinder-filling "free," before you go to non-stock cams or high-ratio rockers.
Gorgeous truck!!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Is this a supplier of rebuilt engines to auto parts stores? A lot of those outfits use the cheapest parts (esp. pistons) available. If you haven't done so, talk to a couple of long-established auto machine shop owners in your area, and see what they say about this rebuilder. Talking to the old machinists is always a good first move before making any decisions.
If the builder is doing this engine as a custom job for you, ask him about setting the squish-height (by milling the block deck after taking a measurement with the head temporarily installed). It's a chore, but it really helps the engine resist detonation if you start improving cylinder-filling with cams, manifolds, etc.. Setting the squish is something the engine designers would love to do if it weren't impossibly expensive in a production-line setting. The other thing to ask about is doing a "port and bowl" cleanup of the head, which gives small improvements in cylinder-filling "free," before you go to non-stock cams or high-ratio rockers.
Gorgeous truck!!
If the builder is doing this engine as a custom job for you, ask him about setting the squish-height (by milling the block deck after taking a measurement with the head temporarily installed). It's a chore, but it really helps the engine resist detonation if you start improving cylinder-filling with cams, manifolds, etc.. Setting the squish is something the engine designers would love to do if it weren't impossibly expensive in a production-line setting. The other thing to ask about is doing a "port and bowl" cleanup of the head, which gives small improvements in cylinder-filling "free," before you go to non-stock cams or high-ratio rockers.
Gorgeous truck!!
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