Camshaft ID help
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
Camshaft ID help
I am in the process of rebuilding a 292 that had previously been bored .030 oversize. The cylinders are pretty clean and my machinist tells me they are true. Crank and Rods are STD.
When I removed the cam I had planed on replacing it but my machinist says it looks almost new as well as the lifters. The Cam has YB-1 cast in it and 210(w)C2 [the w is actually inside a circle] stamped in the timing gear end of it.
Any ideas what grind this cam might be?
When I removed the cam I had planed on replacing it but my machinist says it looks almost new as well as the lifters. The Cam has YB-1 cast in it and 210(w)C2 [the w is actually inside a circle] stamped in the timing gear end of it.
Any ideas what grind this cam might be?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
I can't help with the numbers. You can fairly accurately determine the lift by measuring the base circle and subtracting that from the lobe measurement. That will give you some idea what type of cam it is.
If the engine was running, was it running well enough that you can be reasonably sure you want to use that cam, or might you want something bigger?
Given the difficulty with swapping cams in a Y-Block, if there is one part you absolutely need to get right while the engine is built, it is the cam. So choose wisely.
I suggest you go up at least a notch from stock, particularly if it will not be used as a truck anymore.
If the engine was running, was it running well enough that you can be reasonably sure you want to use that cam, or might you want something bigger?
Given the difficulty with swapping cams in a Y-Block, if there is one part you absolutely need to get right while the engine is built, it is the cam. So choose wisely.
I suggest you go up at least a notch from stock, particularly if it will not be used as a truck anymore.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
Charlie,
It won't be used as a truck for sure but I'm wondering if this is already a step up. If I measure lift what will that tell me? I thought hotter cams had steeper lifts and or more separation.
I'm adding a "B" manifold, 390 CFM Holley, ECZ-G heads & 1.54 rockers as well as a set of Sanderson headers (all piece meald from swap meets) . I also ported the exhaust and took the bump out of the port.
It won't be used as a truck for sure but I'm wondering if this is already a step up. If I measure lift what will that tell me? I thought hotter cams had steeper lifts and or more separation.
I'm adding a "B" manifold, 390 CFM Holley, ECZ-G heads & 1.54 rockers as well as a set of Sanderson headers (all piece meald from swap meets) . I also ported the exhaust and took the bump out of the port.
Last edited by bjmayberry2; Aug 13, 2015 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Added head porting.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
As duration gets longer, the lift generally increases as well. So the lift will help get an idea if it is stock or not. If the lobe is less than .285", it's probably some stock cam. If it is over .285", it is probably some higher performance aftermarket cam.
You could also have the guy check the valve events by installing it in an engine and using a degree wheel. That should help determine the actual specs pretty accurately, but it will probably cost you for his time.
I'd get something that is 2teens @.050" at the minimum - that will be about a step above the standard 1957 cam. 220s if a slight, but bearable loss of low end is acceptable, for a definite performance sound. 230s or higher for a nice lope but significant loss of low end.
You could also have the guy check the valve events by installing it in an engine and using a degree wheel. That should help determine the actual specs pretty accurately, but it will probably cost you for his time.
I'd get something that is 2teens @.050" at the minimum - that will be about a step above the standard 1957 cam. 220s if a slight, but bearable loss of low end is acceptable, for a definite performance sound. 230s or higher for a nice lope but significant loss of low end.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
My aim is to run around 2,000 RPM on the interstate. I'm thinking about dual exhaust with 30" Smithies but don't want mufflers that purr too loud while on the highway. my days of loud and proud have long gone.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ygoldsberry
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
4
Mar 25, 2012 10:41 AM
gunnabebad
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
2
Feb 28, 2004 04:19 PM
fordman428
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
14
Dec 5, 2003 03:51 PM
Matt 390 68 f250
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
4
Feb 13, 2003 07:53 PM
