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Hey all..recently been considering a cam swap. I don't want it to be TOO awful radical..I'm not so new to engines..but have no idea what I would have to do to change the cam. I have a mild engine..600 edelbrock with c intake and dual efi manifolds. I'd like to make a lil more power w/o breaking the bank
I know comp makes several..I was considering the 260 or 268 cams..when I check out prices for some headwork..shouldn't be to bad for p and p with a valve job. If I do that I may go with the bigger cam..id like a little lopey sound but I'm open to any cam manufacturer like isky.
The cam swap is a lot of work, but can be done in two days, if you work steady on it. If you are looking for more power, I would have the head p&p'ed first, and have the oem studs replaced with screw-ins, to handle the extra stress.
I think I would drop down a notch with the carb, too. I know the 268 comp sounds really nice, but it moves the t.curve way up in the rpm's, taking away your low end. You might want to look at cams from Accelerated Motion, in Canada, and Sneider, and Crower. I really like the one by Acc. mo. It will give you some lope at idle, and still leave some torque curve in your low end. (BTW, the description of the 'level 4' cam on the crower site is pure b.s. Somebody posted the wrong info for those cam numbers.)
What does the swap entail? P/s removal, rad. and fan removal, dizzy r&r, p.rods, lifters removal, front grill r&r, vibration dampner r&r, front cover, c.bearings r&r, and break-in additive, break-in procedure. All fun stuff.
Thankfully the engine is all ready out its just engine work ha. I'm just looking for a cruiser really. Was it the crower cam u were recommending? For the idle and lower end torque? I'm looking into p and p and are the screw in studs necessary? I also thing the 268 is a little more radical but I do like the sound of the crower.
Some re-builders routinely install screw-in studs in stock engines...saves problems down the road especially with a bigger cam, higher spring pressures, etc.
I'd vote for the 268 too. The loss of low end isnt all that big of a deal. I lost a lot with my cam, but only did it for the lope, so I dont care.
I hear ya. I'm just building a street cruiser anyways. It definitely won't b pulling although it could if it wanted. I'm gonna hafta give it some thought. Did u change springs too?
I just did cam & lifters. The GM rockers, I had already done a few months prior to the cam. I was afraid of coil bind with the springs with the .518 lift, but there was plenty of room(relatively speaking). The engine had been a reman 10 years ago, so most everything is still pretty fresh. Certainly a power gain too. Next on the list for me is light port work and shave the head for a little more compression. I sure cant complain with the $135 cam and lifter price.
The mislabeled Crower cam is # 19213 They say it has a healthy lope, but with the 112 LSA, I wonder.
The A.motion cam that interests me is their mild performance one: 212/213 duration, 450/451 lift, with 109 LSA. They say don't use higher than 310 rear gears. That is something to consider with the 268 as well. Any bottom end will depend a lot on your rear gears.
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