Hi all, I have recently purchased a 1992 E350 campervan. It has power door locks, with a lock/unlock button on driver and passenger doors. I did not get a remote key fob with the vehicle.I would like to have remote lock/unlock though.

Can anyone tell me where the remote entry module is located in one of these?

I guess the first step is to determine if it has the module fitted, then proceed from there. I have found the connector under the steering column that is bridged together to programme the remote, so it is probably safe to assume all of the wiring for the remote system is in the loom.

cheers Conrad

 

Hi Conrad,
My '88 had power locks but no installed module (that I could find) so I bought this:
Docooler® Car Remote Central Lock Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers. About 12 bucks on Amazon and works perfectly. Good range, too.

jim

 

thanks Jim,

had a good look this afternoon, and it appears my van does not have the wiring installed for the OEM keyless entry. The connector I found above the steering column was obviously for something else. I will be grabbing a system similar to the one you have described

cheers Conrad

 

The system is totally adaptable to any power lock system. I mounted the module under the hood, passenger side, by the battery. I ran the wires back through the fender and into the passenger side kick panel where I picked up the wires going to the passenger door. Spliced in there, hooked up power and ground under the hood and done.

The sliding cover on the remotes to keep the buttons from being pressed accidentally are a great feature, don't see that on most fobs.

jim

 

cheers again Jim, I managed to find the same system as yours here in NZ, and have just purchased it online. Should be here in a couple of days

Like that the key fob has a slidey cover thing, I am forever locking/unlocking doors/setting off alarms with keyfobs in my pocket!

Conrad

 

Rongo pai! (I hope that's right!)

Here's the connector I found in the kickpanel passenger side. I threaded the wires through the same grommet from the fender to the inside and made the spices there out of the weather.

jim


Power door lock connector passenger door

Update: I found the diagram I used to hook up the module. I can't be certain about what color wires you will see but if you have a meter or test light it should be OK.
jim

 

Update, found the diagram I used. Wire colors may be different.
jim


Remote keyless module connections

 

you are a bloody star Jim

I think I will just make the absolute basic system, ie. what is pictured above. I don't need flashing indicators/ headlights or whatever else. Keep it simple.

Will let you know how I go.

cheers Conrad

 

Good afternoon!

And rats, I forgot the flashers. I hooked the brown wire on the module to the passenger side parking light wire, it is right there handy. Presto, flashing lights.

Now, I gotta ask, is this van lefthand or righthand drive?

jim

 

Hi Jim,

still left hook, as God intended

Not complied for NZ roads yet, but hoping to keep it LHD. I have seen a few that have been converted, and some aspects of the conversion range from less than ideal, to just plain scary! Drivetrain being offset to the right does not help matters either, not a lot of room for pedals on the other side! One I looked at the other day, had the steering box moved to RH side, flipped over and mounted forward of the steering tie rod. It was hanging way lower than the chassis rail, had horrendous bump steer, and bugger all steering lock. Wouldn't turn out of a normal driveway without running across the other side of the road! Plenty of other things wrong with it too that I won't go into...... A good vehicle ruined.

BTW, fairly recent pic of mine below . It's a project at the moment. Getting a complete interior refit, and 230 volt conversion, among other things. . Body and mechanicals are mint (only 36K miles) New wheels on the way, and lots of detailing to do. It's an Intervec Falcon 19 foot, came out of Japan of all places! Looks like toilet, shower, microwave and cooker have never been used. I will start a project thread on it soon.


Conrad

 

the keyless entry did not work! Although the module can be wired in several different configurations, it is not compatible.

The 1992 on Econoline used a reversing polarity system, as opposed to the earlier Econolines which just used a +12v for unlock and +12V for lock (as pictured in your diagram above) Mine does not have relays as shown above, the drivers and passenger door swicthes carry the full current for the door locks. See diagram below, which I found on the internet.

I connected the module in the reversing polarity configuration as shown in the diagram supplied with the module, and it locks and unlocks the doors fine from the remote control. BUT, when using the manual door lock buttons, the unlocking and lock cycle work very slowly. The wires to the module got very hot too. This is because the NC contacts inside the module keep both lock and unlock output trigger wires connected to ground.(until the remote is used) When using the manual button one of the wires will be connected to +12V, which creates a short circuit through the module, which is still connected to ground.

I will have a look for another remote system and see if I can find one which will work.

Conrad

 

Yikes, and bummer!
Sorry it didn't work, I guess they were being careless with the "universal" installation claim. I read some of the Amazon reviews and questions and it worked on many later model vehicles.
jim

 

I've installed and custom wired relay assemblies for PDL actuation via aftermarket alarm and can tell you without doubt the over heated wires you've discovered are 100% indicative there is a mistake in the wiring you're performed.

Typically aftermarket alarms that include a PDL function also provide or show how to construct the proper relay block to safely operate the PDL motors.

I strongly suggest you review the installation instructions, several times if necessary in order to rewire your system correctly. While I won't talk specifics about your installation here is a typical schematic to include PDL operation to aftermarket alarm/RKE systems:




HTH

 

I spent a bit of time today working out the way my van was wired. It is similar to the diagram I originally posted, but with only two control switches in series. With a little jiggery pokery of the diagram I found on the interweb, here is what the wiring configuration of my van looks like:



So the diagram you posted above will work JWA. I can connect the changeover relays either in between the two switches, or on the output side of the drivers switch, between switch and all of the motors. The keyless entry module does actually consist of 2 internal changeover relays. But the wiring is so thin, and the relays which are soldered on to a circuit board are tiny, so I will use the module to trigger a couple of Hella automotive relays, so that if the keyless entry fails for some reason it should fail safe and leave me with the existing electric locking system still working.

I will report back when it is done

Conrad

P.S. just fitted some shiny new American Racing alloy wheels

 

Done! I wired up the keyless entry via 2x changeover relays, on the output side of the drivers master switch. Managed to tuck it all inside the drivers door switch housing. Works well, thanks everyone for their help