Hello guys, first time poster. I have a huge problem I have been reading the forum for fixes for days now trying almost everything and looking for people that have the same problem cant find anything really. I have a late 99 f250 7.3, so here's my problem after I had my truck sitting for a couple days because my alternator was going out. I went to go start it and it would just crank, I see smoke while cranking, rpms move very little that I can see but on my scanner it says its going up to 140rpms, temps here have been low 30s to high 50s today, had no problem starting the week before this.

here's what I have done: changed GPR, CPS, EOP, PCM (because I fried my last one when I accidently hit my chip with batteries connected),cleaned EBP sensor and tube, checked UVCH(it looked good), unplugged ICP(no oil in it), unplugged Fuel Bowl Heater(need to replace), rewired the harness above driver front wheel and goes to connection above VC(because it was smoking so I tore it apart and found wires that were bare and melting others), charged batteries, tested them both individually, replaced tin nut on IPR with a better steel nut, checked level of oil in reservoir its an inch from top, dipstick indicates full oil, changed oil & filter maybe >100 miles ago, changed heater core, unplugged EOT, test glow plugs, changed 2 of them and the tested the same @ .8,

I have a scanner with live data codes I pulled:P1280(icp circuit out of range),P0113(intake air temp sensor circuit high input),P0107(MAP sensor/Baro pres. circuit low input),P1391(GP circuit low input right),P1393(GP low input circuit Left) *, P1391&1393 before and after GPR swap comes and goes, MAP is 24HG, RPM while cranking up to 148

Mods to the truck; 12 inch suspension lift, 46" Goodyear MV/Ts with 20" M/Ts, straight pipe stack exhaust through bed(drain hole at bottom for snow and rain), spectre intake, TS performance 6 position chip, aftermarket hid headlights. Don't think it's really relevant But just in case.

I want to thank everyone in advance I appreciate any help, I do not have loads of money to throw at this but I need it running its my daily driver now, sorry for long post.

 

Welcome to FTE famousbeast89. I moved your request for help to the 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel forum.

Good luck!

 

Those codes are for a Glow Plug Control Module, but you mentioned you replaced the Glow Plug Relay. Did you match all the codes printed on the PCM? Unplug the chip with the keys in your pocket and just troubleshoot the truck, not the chip, the connection to the chip, the tuning, etc....

Last link in my signature will help a lot. It sounds like an IPR. I would stop using your Buck$Zooka on parts, and get a proper scan tool/gauge that can read the PIDs - like Torque Pro or AutoEnginuity.

 

Check your battery voltage! If your alternator is not up to snuff either are your batteries. If the battery voltage is below the threshold voltage the truck will only turnover and not start. Get the batteries up, clear the codes and try again.

 

He said he is getting smoke while cranking so his injectors are firing.

Try plugging in the block heater.
I suspect you have a PCM from a Cal truck or Ex. They run a GPCM (Glow Plug Control Module). Your 49 state truck uses a simple Glow Plug Relay.

 

Thank you guys, yes I have a GPR not A GPCM, I bought this new PCM from stock wise auto, so I don't know if it came from a cali truck, I have left it plugged in to the heater for hours and it help to seem like it wants to start but it just won't turn all the way over. My batteries test good I can't test the alternator right with out it running. And as far as the IPR wouldn't I have more symptoms besides just not turning over? I replaced the tin nut on it to make sure it doesn't come loose.

 

Try jumping the large posts on the GPR for about twenty seconds then try to start.

 

How would I do that?

 

Pull the rubber cover back and use a screw driver or other metal device to connect the two large contacts. The idea is if your relay is bad internally or is not being commanded to close and not sending current to the glow plugs this procedure will bypass the internal parts of the relay and send the current. Could be that the contacts are scorched, pitted, corroded etc and not letting the current through or the relay is bad and not pulling in at all when commanded, or not being commanded to close by the PCM. Either way you are bypassing it.


Edit.... careful what you touch with the cover pulled back. The covered post is 12volts all the time.