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Wow, you totally bypassed it. I'm starting to not blame you. My brother is out there now checking the tail lights........to fix a tranny issue! Man this truck is ridiculous! Its amazing there are still Ford guys out there after owning these older quirky *******s!
Ok, solved. Stupid old truck. Turns out my flatbed with LED tail lights/blinkers makes it so the voltage couldn't loop through as it does with a conventional bulb. Unhooked tail lights, hooked up standard bulb. Tranny is perfect, ABS light is gone. Not to disable abs module and the truck should be golden....until the next ridiculous problem! Tach is great but speedo jumps a little every now and then. We'll see if that needs attention.
we keep these old dinosaurs to keep us on our toes.
people that drive those new fangled computer controlled cars that do everything but whip your rear end when you pass gas loose the ability to figure things out, because the computer does it for them.
and you can keep your LED lights in the body, just add a small combination light down under it mounted to the frame. this will give you the resistance needed to make the electrical system recognize the bulbs, and still be able to use the LED's in the body.
that is the way i have my 04 flatbed done.
It definitely kept me on my toes. Just glad to sort it out. Thanks for the help. I have it set up like that now just for testing but I think I'm just going to add a second set of tail lights on the back for reliability sake. Don't want a burned out or corroded bulb taking out my transmission in the middle of Montana somewhere! Thanks again
Found this post. Is this how you disabled the ABS?
So here's the FIRST thing everyone needs to do. Yes, try this BEFORE you change out the MC. Under the drivers side floor board, inside the frame rail is the rear abs contoller/module. Facing the front is a large hex nut. Carefully remove this nut. I used a 1 1/4 inch box end wrench. This may not be the exact size but it is what worked for me. Simply remove the nut and TAKE OUT THE SPRING, caution the nut is under pressure from the sping. No brake fluid will leak out. Then replace the nut. Pump your brakes a few times to compress the controller. That's it. This bypasses the rabs contoller which has failed and is letting brake fluid leak by the seals which causes the brake pedal to fade. No the abs light will not light up on the dash.
This did not work for me. I did verify it was the ABS unit causing all my headaches. My issue was that sometimes i simply had no rear brakes (or very very little) and if i pressed very hard on the brakes the rears would stick. In this situation i could get out, bleed the ABS unit (it was pressurized) and brakes would unlock until used again. I tried the spring, didnt work, swapped ABS with unit from an 89 we had on the hill and no problems since. I also had the falling pedal, which i did assume was the master cylinder. The vacuum booster was getting weak anyway, and the MC was leaking into it, although both more or less worked fine. Replaced them, and fixed the leak and occaisional hard pedal, but still had sticking brakes and no rear braking.
I suppose if you had other issues, taking the spring out wouldn't solve things alone. I haven't honestly tried it yet so nothing new to report. My truck only has 60k miles so it wouldn't surprise me if I had a sticking piston or something more than just the abs module. The abs system though seems like something Ford was mandated to put on, whether it worked or not. The system is pretty much useless compared to any modern abs.