Oil Pump
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois is home
Oil Pump
I'm thinking that my oil pump is leaking. I bought this 64 Styleside LB with a 292 2bb and 4 speed. The PO said that it ran strong but might need to be overhauled as it used copious amounts of oil. He is right!
I'm thinking that the oil pump is leaking. I've been able to tighten enough stuff and insert bolts into the heads at the back...thanks to the info available here to get the engine to idle well for an hour at a time without leaking. Yahoo!
Then I get in her and go ten miles, well now I'm down a quart and what a mess! There is no way that the rear main could throw that much in that length of time.
So I know that I have a gear style pump and I can't see it leak at idle. Anybody got any thoughts?
I'm thinking that the oil pump is leaking. I've been able to tighten enough stuff and insert bolts into the heads at the back...thanks to the info available here to get the engine to idle well for an hour at a time without leaking. Yahoo!
Then I get in her and go ten miles, well now I'm down a quart and what a mess! There is no way that the rear main could throw that much in that length of time.
So I know that I have a gear style pump and I can't see it leak at idle. Anybody got any thoughts?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois is home
Well when I open the hood everything from the back lower part of the engine is wet with oil. The most is concentrated around the driver side. I have a road draft tube that was leaking when I got it. I've replaced it with one that is round and serviceable. The original was not round and PO had used epoxy at the bottom of the can. So the replacement helped.
Next I read a post where someone was thinking about replacing his rear main seal, but he thought he should check his oil pan bolts. Sure enough they were loose and he tightened them to 15 ft pounds.
So I checked mine and sure enough mine were loose also. So now I've got them torqued as well.
I checked the pipe from the pan to the oil pump and it was tight. Then I checked the pipe at the pump....it was loose. So I tightened it. Well I thought that must be my problem! Maybe not.
That's when I did the idle test. No new leaks.
When I drive its another oil bath. The oil is everywhere under the pan but mostly on the steering box. It's so much that when I get back home oil drips off the rear axle. Just too much to be all rear main. IMO
Next I read a post where someone was thinking about replacing his rear main seal, but he thought he should check his oil pan bolts. Sure enough they were loose and he tightened them to 15 ft pounds.
So I checked mine and sure enough mine were loose also. So now I've got them torqued as well.
I checked the pipe from the pan to the oil pump and it was tight. Then I checked the pipe at the pump....it was loose. So I tightened it. Well I thought that must be my problem! Maybe not.
That's when I did the idle test. No new leaks.
When I drive its another oil bath. The oil is everywhere under the pan but mostly on the steering box. It's so much that when I get back home oil drips off the rear axle. Just too much to be all rear main. IMO
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois is home
Yeah, haha I'm tired of cleaning this mess. So I'm going to remove the oil pump and check it for leaks. I wonder what the best way to get it off is?
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 134
Before you take things off, why not do a little cleaning, then set the idle screw up so the engine runs around 2 grand. And with the truck blocked from moving, roll part way under it, and watch where the oil drips from. If it drips from the weep hole in the clutch cover, its probably the main seal. The oil sending unit is also in that area, watch it too, and the valve covers are known to leak too.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois is home
That's a good suggestion. I wondered how to get it running fast enough to actually be able to observe what was happening. I don't think I have a clutch cover....My flywheel and pressure plate are exposed. Isn't that what the cover would hide?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois is home
So I ran the engine at about 2000 rpm while observing what leaked. The oil pump, sending unit, oil filter,valve covers, & road draft unit didn't leak. The oil kept leaking from the cross member under the 4 speed transmission. I can't see a leak so I'm assuming the rear main is leaking and it is flying off the flywheel onto the inside of the bell housing and gravity is allowing it to drip down to the bottom where it gets collected onto the cross member until it drips.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
At least you isolated the problem. You (or somebody) have to replace the rear main seal. There's some tricks to it - and some recommend using a neoprene type, others say use only the rope OEM type.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: California
I pulled the motor to do mine, but it can be done in the truck if necessary. For me, it was a good time to clean stuff up, change motor mounts, etc. The pump and pan will have to come off, but the timing cover can remain in place.
There's a sub-forum dedicated to the Y-Block on FTE--try this thread on the rear main (there are others to read, however!):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...seal-leak.html
I love the Y-Block, but the rear main appears designed to leak. The seal is a three-piece unit. The cap used to hold it on is aluminum; it has two holes for oil pan bolts that tend to strip. You may want to put studs there, if possible, to prevent additional leaks.
Good luck!
~Steve
There's a sub-forum dedicated to the Y-Block on FTE--try this thread on the rear main (there are others to read, however!):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...seal-leak.html
I love the Y-Block, but the rear main appears designed to leak. The seal is a three-piece unit. The cap used to hold it on is aluminum; it has two holes for oil pan bolts that tend to strip. You may want to put studs there, if possible, to prevent additional leaks.
Good luck!
~Steve
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois is home
Oil Leak