Thanks, I like that article. More stuff to think about.

 

BTW why do you love the y-block?

 

I've had two trucks with Y's in them, a 64 F-100 (years ago) that I rebuilt myself and the one in my current 62. Maybe it's because they were built as truck motors, but both were extraordinarily reliable, easy to work on and unstoppable (if not all that fast). I also happen to like the way they look and sound.

I've also owned a Cougar with a temperamental 351C and a couple of cars with 390's, including my current Thunderbird. The FE is strong, but doesn't seem as free-revving to me. Also (probably because it's crammed into that engine bay) it's a bear to work on.

~Steve

 

Thanks for the reply Steve! I am wondering whether to rebuild this engine or install a small block ford V8 in while I have the Y-Block out. I like this motor also, but if I have to live with it marking it's territory......I'm not sure I can get used to that!

So I'm torn between leaving it stock and unique, or changing to a more modern suspension and drivetrain? Maybe even a CV front? I don't know.....

 

Me to, LOL

FYI, I have not yet replaced the rear seal waiting for warmer weather and I am currently replacing the rusted out floor pans.

Jack

 

I'm sure it's possible to get the Y to be leak-free, though with the external oil pump--handy as it is--there's an increased level of difficulty. I'm with the "stock and unique" crowd, though admittedly I read the Crown Vic conversion threads with some interest (and not a little bit of jealousy.)

~Steve

 

If the engine needs a rebuild that really isn't fault of the Y block design necessarily is it? It may be they are more prone to it, I dunno. Had the 64 292 rebuilt almost 20 years ago and it doesn't leak yet so it seems OK to me.

 

When care is taken with the seals and gaskets and general assembly, Y blocks don't leak. A 51 year old, potentially worn out engine is not the best to use for that example.

The rear main cap should have studs in it. A lot of the time, those studs do get replaced with bolts. Those studs or bolts need thread sealer. that is a common source of leaks that gets blamed on the rear main.

Take a look at the back of the engine to make sure the oil is not coming from the valley pan, valve covers, intake flange, or distributor. With as much oil as you're describing, it probably is not but it is easy to check.
Also at the back of the engine is a cam plug, and oil galley plug, two more possibilities for leaks that get blamed on the rear main.

If you're going to do a swap, make it count. A small block is a lateral move at best. For what it will take to get a small block mounted and operating properly, money and time, you can get the Y running very well and leak free.

 

Are these also securing the center fwd part of the oil pan as well? Anyway have noticed oil pan bolts like to loosen up.

 

Bolts everywhere else for the oil pan and none of the others need sealer. Just the two on the seal retainer need sealer.

 

Center rear, holding in the retainer for the rear main seal.

 

Yeah, ok. Rear of oil pan. That's what I meant to say!

 

So.....It's been a couple of weeks since I been here.

The weather's been bad and I've had a cold whine, whine, etc.

I took out the two bolts at the rear main position and doped them with silicone, took it for a drive and didn't lose as much oil. Now I see that the draft tube that I thought was not leaking is still leaking some. hum. Work on that and get it to leak less. Now I see that the oil pump is leaking, but not so much. What I had been seeing was draft tube oil being blown toward the back of the engine and onto the oil pump.
A couple more drives and wipe oil off and tighten this and that a little more here and there, etc.
Now I'm glad to say that the majority of my oil loss was out the two rear pan bolts. My rear main doesn't drip at all! I'm shocked. I would have never thought that much would leak so quickly there!!!
Thank you for the advice to check on that as well as all the other advice too, I appreciate all of it.
As it stands now, the engine stays in and I'm happily staying stock!

 

Awesome!

Silicone is not thread sealer. It should continue to work. The problem is that it can stay in the threads and cause issues fastening the bolts or studs, which can lead to incorrect torque or stripped threads. Next time you're at the parts store, pick up a small tube of thread sealer. Permatex make some, and other brands do, too, I'm sure. The next time you have those bolts out or any others that need thread sealer, that's the stuff you use.

 

So, I've replaced the oil pan gasket and the oil pump gasket and blocked off the road draft tube, and installed a oil pressure gauge.
I've installed a pcv valve and changed the oil and filter.
After checking how much oil to refill I've found that this engine has the 6 quart with filter pan.
So my dip stick has been brazed together by PO. After checking oil before starting level is low. After start up level is really low. Good news is that the oil leaks that I had are beginning to dry up.
I replaced the two rear bolts with studs, and thread sealer. The pan gasket is holding well after torquing pan bolts. The new oil filter has no leaks. The block off plate I made for the draft tube is dry. The tube from the pan to the oil pump is dry. So I let it idle for a half hour until the engine got warm.
Oil pressure started off 30-35 cold and settled to 10 warm.
After checking for leaks the oil pump was leaking from the bottom plate. So I gave those four bolts another 5 #'s of torque.
Put it on the ground and went for a short drive.
Got back and the oil pump bottom plate was still leaking too much, but everything else was dry.
Engine ran well with the new pcv valve installed.
So I tightened up the four bottom bolts on the pump another 5#'s. Well that wasn't the best idea as two bolts have stripped the threads!
I'm not sure there is anything else left to do now, than replace the pump?