So I just picked up a 1999 super cab f350 dually 7.3l none running. I want to learn how to work on these damn diesels so I bought this to learn and because it was pretty cheap!

It's sat for ~5 years!

Story is that the previous owners drove it around for a long time-it eventually started puffing a lot of white smoke and knocking so they parked it. Got it diagnosed as an injector stuck open and didnt want to pay to get a new injector (couldn't really afford it)
So it sat. They eventually got another 01 f250.
And as it needed parts they took em (so far missing was batteries, starter, radio and ac blower motor)

So I got it home yesterday and bought a new starter today. Threw the batteries out of my 6.0 into it just so I could see if its worth dumping more money into.

Tried to start it-at first nothing just lots of cranking.
Then it started to sputter a little bit but wouldn't actually catch.
Last crank it wouldn't turn over dash beeped and whipers turned on for a second (not sure if my batteries are dead or hydro locked with fuel)
Also when It started to sputter like it was about to start-I got a lot of smoke in the engine bay.

Also also-as i was cranking the oil pressure gauge would ride to about halfway and the rpm gauge would not move.

I HAVE A SCANGAUGE I CAN LOAD 7.3 PIDS ONTO IF IT'LL HELP!

The turbo exhaust is pretty wet and i think te smoke might be coming from there but its very hard to tell, have to get my gf to crank it while I look later.

Anyways that's where I'm at now. Batteries are in the truck on the charger as I'm typing this.

I'd like to get it running and make sure everything else is good before I spend more money on batteries etc for it.
And I need to figure out what injector is stuck open (any tips on that would be great!!!)

 

Some fresh fuel in the tank & fuel bowl would be nice.

Will your scan guage perform a buzz test and a KOEO (key on engine off) ?

 

Tried to crank again after my batts were on charge a while and it did. Still stuttering and sounds like it wants to fire up but doesn't (LOTS of smoke from engine bay-definite exhaust leak up there!)

Just Pulled glow plugs on driver side, lots of oil on them (I think its just oil that drained into the cylinders from me pulling the glow plug out.)
Turned engine over and it looks like the cylinder closest to the firewall spewed out a bit of fuel-but its very hard to tell. (Now every goddamn thing under the hood-including all my tools-are coated in a mist of oil and fuel...)

Any tips on where to go from here?
Is there a way I can tell if one of these 4 injectors is stuck open?

 

Didn't see your post with my last reply.
Scangauge ii won't do a buzz test.
It's just basic gauges/monitor.

I have the driver side halfway torn down now to see if I can find the bad injector(s).

 

What is your outside air temp?

 

You could do a free check on your glow plugs by using some jumper cables and hook them up to a battery. Careful - or you will brand yourself!

 

Any trouble codes present on the scan gauge?

 

It's a sunny 80 degree day today.
No codes found on the scangauge

 

You won't need the glow plugs to start it then at those temps. So don't worry about testing them.

Can you measure ICP (inj control pressure) with your scan guage?

 

Yeah I'm not worried about the glow plugs being bad.
From what the guy I bought it from said one of these injectors is stuck open (said lots of white smoke and would knock-that's why it was parked)

So I'm trying to figure out which one is doing it. Like I said I'm down into the driver side valve cover now.

If you or anyone else can give me a list of PIDS to load on my scangauge to monitor to figure this out, ill load em up and report back the readings of each.

And yes icp is something it can monitor

 

Monitor:

ICP, ICP duty cycle, rpm's, batt voltage, fuel inj pulse width. I'll go inside on my laptop & post up what those values need to be in order to start.

But boy, an inj buzz test will tell u right away which one is the trouble inj.

 

Before I forget, drain the fuel bowl, there is s little yellow lever behind the fuel filter bowl/housing on top of the engine under the plastic cover. Drain it and listen to see if the fuel pump is filling it back up. But fill it 1/2 way with fresh stuff first.

 

Here is what you need to start............

- at least 10.5-10.7V to fire the inj's when the glow plugs are on.
- at least 100 rpm's
- ICP of 500 psi. If you unplug the ICP sensor the PCM will not get the reading from the sensor and default to 750 psi.
- PCM/IDM sync signal - this shows as 0.6ms FIPW(fuel inj pulse width). Once the other minimums are met, the FIPW will jump above 3.0 ms.

 

this might help as well:

 

Disconnect the ICP snsor - the PCM will default to a higher value and mybe give you the kick you need. Plus you can verify that your scanguage can actually read 7.3L trouble codes since this will trip the check engine light and store a trouble code.