I was going to ask, has anyone done an e fan conversion on their aeros. I was thinking of performing this as well as relaying the headlamp, and other project we want to do. I would like to hear both the good and bad about this. Any ideas about this, if i did this i would want it looking factory( clean wiring, nothing sticking in the radiator, etc). This would be on my 95 aero swb 3.0 i wasn't sure how to go about this since plastic fans are an sob to find for these fans and these fan clutches tend to leak, and i don't want a flex fan screaming for mercy in the engine bay. What do i need and how can i neatly install this? I am even **** enough where i'll even add wire to avoid cutting connectors, looms, etc. My blower motor went out, had to get an aftermarket blower motor and had to make terminals to plug in the factory connector. Please help me. Thanks Brian Skinner

 

the replacement fan is available at Advance Auto Parts for around $25.00 and if you order through their website you can get 15% off and pick up at your nearest store.

they also have the clutch if you need one, otherwise you can use the one you have.

I've never done an electric fan on the Aerostar so I have no experience.

 

The restrictive engine compartment in our Aeros puts a high heat load on the engine requiring maximum cooling capacity especially towing, carrying heavy loads, mountain driving, driving into winds, lots of slow speed intown driving, running the A/C in 100d F temps especially on hills and low speeds- requires drawing massive amounts of air thru the restricted flow condensor.

Even then they easily overheat.
I would question whether an electric fan would carry the load. Believe someone on here used dual fans off a V6 Taurus but don't remember how that turned out.
The fan/clutch/belt system on the Aero is extremely reliable and supplies high levels of cooling.
My clutch and fan blade are original factory at 180k miles+, still work like new.
Change the thermostats and antifreeze often in these, especially the 4.0L

Overheating one of these engines, especially the 4.0L is sudden engine death, cracked heads and blown head gaskets.

Doing the headlight relay and increase wiring gauge side to the headlights has a real ROI, much brighter headlights at night especially at idle stopped. Also saves the headlight switch from frying, way under rated for current demand.

 

I have done this, here is my input.

For starters, there is nothing you can buy at Advance Auto Parts or any other local chain auto parts store that is going to carry what you need. The simple fat is the units they stock are cheap, inadequate units.

To get the good stuff, you need to go to online sources, and they won't cost you $25. Think more in the $250 - $500 dollar range. The main factors to consider is a proper fitting shroud and a fan that moves enough CFM to keep up with the engine. If you cheap out on your fan, you WILL overheat, and you WILL ruin your engine.

Does the e-fan have some benefits? When done properly, yes. Its main areas will be when pulling steep grades at low speeds, where load is high, but airflow from normal movement is reduced. It also helps improve airflow and AC operation when the vehicle is not moving at all.

Even so, the stock fan is more than adequate for most situations.

 

yeahh but who wants to spend $250.00 on a replacement plastic fan? not me. I checked the one at Advance and it is identical to the crappy Ford plastic fan, so if you are going to replace plastic crap, you replace it with $25. plastic crap. Besides, everything is made in China, including those expensive OEM Ford parts.

 

This is the OE style fan:

Murray Temperature Control FA70332 - Fan Blade | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I replaced mine because it was cracking on all of the fins, and so far, it has lasted 3 years without cracking.

And a new clutch:

Murray Temperature Control 2717 - Engine Cooling Fan Clutch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Is about $38, so for around $70 you can have a new fan system.

I have not seen much of the electric systems on the Aero, IMO I believe because of the small wiring and the overtaxed Alternator.

But it is your choice.

 

same here 93nighthawk, mine is made by Dorman, for less. And it comes with warranty, so if it falls apart, you get another.

 

See, on my rig my custom radiator required an electric fan. Not only would the stock fan shroud no longer work, the stock fan would not either. But if you are in a situation where your stock setup works, there is not a lot of benefit to doing anything different.

To run a good e-fan you need to have an upgraded alternator. So it is a very expensive proposition.

 

I am not against removing the antiquated fan and clutch, which should result in better fuel economy;

If the issue comes down to a better alternator, then that is a matter of going to a salvage yard and pulling one. Over in my area they are $19.95 with 30 days warranty. If in 30 days it fails, just go get another one.

Finding pusher or puller fans that fit the Aerostar is a matter of spending time at the salvage yard until you find one or two.

By the way, for those with the 4.0 liter Aerostar who need the no-longer-serviced plastic vapor line from the charcoal canister to the intake, the 2000-2001 Ford Escort has an identical line. $3.00 at the salvage yard.

 

What helps more than anything with improving the cooling efficiency of the Aero on hills and slow speed stop and go intown is pull the transmission down into a lower gear, keep the RPMs at 2500>3500. Also brings the engine up to peak torque on the 4.0L. Pulls far more efficiently.

At stops slip the auto into neutral, pumps far more ATF thru the tranny and cooler.

I could never find enough room around the Aero radiator to mount a large enough fan to move 2000+ cfm.

The 3G upgrade 130 amp alternator from an Explorer or later V6 Ranger is well worth the time and effort on these. Have to upgrade the alternator>battery wire size to #4 gauge fine stranded to gain the max benefit. No longer see the volt gauge drop low when stopped in gear with headlights, driving lights and lots of accessories on.

 

I will be happy to upgrade the alternator>battery wire size to #4 gauge fine stranded if someone tells me which wire it is and from where to where. I know the ring connector wire and the two plugs connected to the alternator but I don't know which one is the culprit when upgrading.

 

Trust me Jose, if you don't go with a big enough properly fitted fan, you will overheat and destroy the engine.

On mine I went with a custom made aluminum shroud so that I would get the full airflow across the full radiator. The biggest area this made a difference is at low speeds.

Not to attack or disregard your input, 96_4wdr, but I live in the mountains, I know what kind of issues I run into. When you are pulling a loaded van up a 7-8% grade at 35 miles per hour, even with the engine revving like that, you just don't get the airflow needed to keep it cool. Thats why the '95 van has a 3" thick custom made radiator, which cannot be used with a stock fan setup. So it runs a single flex-a-kite puller fan. It has no issues keeping up, plus the AC system works much better than with the stock fan.

That being said, the electric fan does work better, but its an expensive solution. You need upgraded electronics, a fan controller.

Pulling a used fan off a junkyard vehicle is a loosing proposition. Most are far too small to cool an Aerostar. If you do want to convert to an electric fan, its go big or go home. At the end of the day, the stock fan is adequate for most applications. In my situation, there are a lot of very steep low speed situations that tax the cooling system to its max.

 

Khan, I can see that you are driving your Aerostar through a different kind of road, and then pulling a trailer at the same time, no wonder you need the electric cooling fan and modified radiator/shroud!