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Just put glow plugs and harness on a 6.0 for a car lot . They diagnosed it .
Job went ok , rather do a 7,3 or 6.9 .
After done , won't start cold , glow plugs getting power , ALL FOMOCO parts !
Hooked up the Modis , FICM volts drop to 28 ! I think it needs a FICM .
Batteries good , Full charge , Booster hooked up while reading low voltage . Also has FICM failure code , 611? I honestly do not remember the # .
To my final question ... Does an aftermarket FICM need to be flashed ? Or is it plug and play ....
YUP. Sounds just like another day for me, back in the days of seeing these all over my doorstep. Getting requests for quotes to replace all glow plugs, only for me to respond with WHY. Although some FICMs are plug and play, to err on the side of caution, I would rather say yes it needs to be programmed with IDS. That way, you know it's working 100% after install. And yes, the FICM IS the cause of your issue in this case.
Thanks for the quick reply . You have further reinforced my diagnosis . I do Not see many of these . It was forced on me because the deisel side of the shop is SWAMPED because of the weather , line trucks down ,pto and hydrolic systems going to crap with our arctic cold snap . I do mostly gas engine and electronic diagnostics now .
If you take a FICM from a known good and running truck it will
work if that is the problem. The FICM that comes new in the box
are not programed and they do need to be or they won't do anything.
BTW A FICM from some other truck might pop a code but it will run.
The code is just telling you that the programming from the PCM and FICM
don't match.
Although some FICMs are plug and play, to err on the side of caution, I would rather say yes it needs to be programmed with IDS.
Just for future reference, all modules from us are plug and play and programmed for your truck - no software incompatibility codes. Just turn the key and go.
Also from us, you can opt for any software revision that Ford ever came out with at no extra charge (on an exchange unit) or could go with one of the four aftermarket tunes we carry to allow you to stop lusting after the 6.7's.
To the OP: If you retained that original power board, we'd be happy to purchase it from you (assuming it's rebuildable [nearly all are]). Just ship it over to us and we'll give you $60!
Thanks . I will keep you in mind . The customer may want his old parts though .
Rather an easy fix after I found the TSB for the 611 code .
Local parts house had me the board by 1pm . Truck was running about an hour later . No core charge on their new unit , so I have the board at the shop .
Thanks . I will keep you in mind . The customer may want his old parts though .
Rather an easy fix after I found the TSB for the 611 code .
Local parts house had me the board by 1pm . Truck was running about an hour later . No core charge on their new unit , so I have the board at the shop .
I'm truly glad that your customer is up and running, but sadly we are very familiar with the local parts house versions. We have seen SO many of those fail it's getting a little crazy. We open the modules up and just see the components literally cracked in two.
What's also the case is that not all (not even close to all) FICM issues are resolved by just the power board. Some issues are caused by logic board issues. We of course work on both sides.
Lastly, though a bit of a takeaway is that something ALWAYS causes these modules to fail. They don't do so on their own.
Weak batteries and alternators and FICM relays kill these units. Please ensure that an AC ripple test (or just bench test) is done on the alternator and a load test is done on the batteries. For northern climates, we recommend that batteries test out above 800CCA. For southern climates, 700CCA can be okay.
Re: the alternator, it is well documented that the stock alternator options - except in the case of dual alternator trucks - are just too small. The smallest alternator we carry of the nine that we do puts out 100 amps at hot idle. This is what the 110 amp stock unit does at its peak when hot.
Re: the relay. We recommend replacement every 100k. Just too many stories of folks being left with a no start due to them and in nearly all cases the damage to the module has already been done. We sell the Motorcraft OEM part # (they claim it's special, but it sure LOOKS like a standard fan relay to us) for $34.98. For that little money, we don't argue with them.
We also carry absolutely everything you can get from Ford - just for less than you are very likely paying now. Check out our parts pages for samples of the more common stuff.
They picked up the truck , started and ran good . Paid the bill , drove off .
Case closed .
I have the board , I will look at your site instead of canning it . I Know cores are useful .
They picked up the truck , started and ran good . Paid the bill , drove off .
Case closed .
I have the board , I will look at your site instead of canning it . I Know cores are useful .
Good for teaching too.
My trans that failed is going in for a postmortem. I picked up a core
to send back to Ford so I could see what happened in this one.
When I do get into it I will be taking a lot of photos and some video.
Then I will post all of them for everyone to gape at. I only hope I
don't slow down the internet too much with a gapers block looking
at the bead trans.
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